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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    1,265

    Default Rudder seal replacement...new style without grease zerk

    Alright guys,

    Many have been talking to me about topics and I chime in trying to help where I can. Many of you have helped me already and hopefully this helps someone else.

    First, be thanks to SEF for sending me o-rings for this job, but they could be found elsewhere. I posted the dimensions in another thread.

    Secondly, it appears the rudder port box is common among a large amount of rudders from SC. I verified my part number through my dealer for the whole rudder kit (115203). Newer boats use 117072 but the port box is the same.

    First off, make sure your bags are empty before pulling them out. Mine still had 10-12 gallons and made a nice pool for me to work in. Only have to pull the port bag but I pulled both engine dividers for my shop light.
    20210619_123157.jpg

    Next, I was lucky enough last outing to get the boat on the trailer far enough forward to remove the rudder. You could let it hang 4" back to accomplish the same thing. I have seen jacking the hull to clear also, but I never had a problem.

    The hardest part is the SS cotter pin. There is no room to work and it does not want to be straight again. Once I donated blood to the mechanic gods it came right out.
    20210619_132914.jpg

    Once removed, te nut and bolt for the tiller arm is straight forward. They are stainless and non-magnetic, DO NOT DROP THEM.
    20210619_122923.jpg

    The tiller arm will release and the rudder will fall pretty easy once the boltnis removed. My dad came over to help and held the rudder and lowered slowly while I made surebthe tiller arm and key stock didn't fall under the engine. Once secured, he turned the rudder and pulled right out.

    Port box only has 1 O-Ring at the top. The rest is sleeved with a carbon liner (yes $0.50 o-ring = sunk $80k boat), I was shocked also.
    20210619_123815.jpg
    20210619_123823.jpg
    2015 Moomba Mojo Surf Edition
    4,000lbs
    Manual Flow

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    1,265

    Default

    Old o-ring (black) vs new
    20210619_125409.jpg
    20210619_125449.jpg

    I used marine silicon spray lube to work the o-ring in from topside. Really simple from there. Just feel around to make sure it seats in the machined groove on the inside of the port box. I then sprayed the rudder shaft and had my dad insert it slowly to not dare the new seal.
    * You have to install the tiller arm at the same time the rudder is being inserted.*
    It slide right on but I wanted to make sure everyone knew this is a 2 person job. They key stock is a little tricky to hold and maneuver with 1 hand but go slow. Once on amd key in position push down on the tiller and push up on the rudder at the same time until both bottom out. Then re-insert the 3/8" bolt (took some wiggling) and tighten everything up.

    I reused the cotter pin but that is up to you. Again, this was a pain to bend once I got it through the rudder shaft.

    All and all, a 2 beer job (with help). Took 1.5hrs without any prior experience. If I have a problem again, I will be forced to replace the port box, or upgrade the rudder kit to a rebuildable one. I still have play in the rudder but definitely reduced.
    While there lube tje steering shaft also. I sprayed some silicon spray and worked it in by turning a few times. Didn't need it but I was already there with tools, so why not?

    I had extra time so I threw on my new OJ945 prop also. Cannot wait to check my work at the lake. Hopefully tomorrow.
    20210607_163757.jpg
    2015 Moomba Mojo Surf Edition
    4,000lbs
    Manual Flow

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    6,372

    Default

    Awesome. Thanks for the write up. Wish they would use a rebuildable rudder to ease of servicing. Would it be possible to coat the rudder shaft and sleeve with lithium marine grease or would it be pointless?


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    David

    2017 Moomba Mojo Max Surf Edition, 2 Pair Wetsounds Rev10s powered by an SD2, 6 pair Wetsounds XS650M and Wetsounds XS12 powered by SD6 all controlled by a WS420. 2 Lumitec SeaBlaze X2 Spectrum underwater lights

    SOLD***2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Javelin, Exile 30.2***SOLD

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    1,265

    Default

    I'm sure it would help. Not sure how long it would last. Water is not stopped from coming into the rudder port. The o-ring just stops the water from coming into the boat.

    The rebuildable version has 2 seals that stop water from entering and keep grease in place. I will swap to this if I continue to have problems.
    2015 Moomba Mojo Surf Edition
    4,000lbs
    Manual Flow

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    South Georgia
    Posts
    1,987

    Default

    Really good photos and procedure writeup. Were there any splines or markings that you used to make sure the rudder went back onto the tiller arm in the same position it came off? And yes that single o-ring has a big job with no backup!

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
    2021 Moomba Makai
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    1,265

    Default

    The tiller arm is keyed to the rudder shaft. No way to mess that up. I also greased the steering cable with the rudder out. I never took the steering cable off the tiller.
    2015 Moomba Mojo Surf Edition
    4,000lbs
    Manual Flow

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