2015 Moomba mondo surf edition \4238 engine fault code question

[Wdavid]

Thank you.

[Wdavid]

Also if the light comes on when you fill the ballast it means the wall is collapsing into the engine and pressing on the O2 sensor wire.

Ok. So I changed the two closest to the front, I think the post cat o2 sensors. I now need to change the other two on the actual exhaust manifold? Any chance you could circle where they should be located on a picture? I am out of state for a bit away from the boat but when I get back I would like to fix it quick as my kids will want to surf I am sure.


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[Wdavid]

Also if the light comes on when you fill the ballast it means the wall is collapsing into the engine and pressing on the O2 sensor wire.

Will check that out too. Thank you.


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[Holdmybeer]

Wanted to help you out with O2 issues.

First off, are you still getting this fault? If so, please post the whole fault code.

O2 sensors are labeled/programmed a certain way in the ECU. Since you drive a boat on the opposite side of a car and the motor is flipped the labeling and locations are the same.

Bank 1 = Starboard side (Driver's side)
Bank 2 = Port side (Passenger's side)

Sensor 1 is before the CAT
Sensor 2 is after the CAT

Looking at the picture I posted earlier, there are 2 sensors, 1 with a blue wire at the manifold, and 1 in the upper CAT chamber. Manifold is Sensor 1, upper CAT is Sensor 2. Sensor 1 controls fuel/air ratio and if either Bank 1 or Bank 2 sensor 1 is bad, the motor will run rough once up to temperature. If sensor 2 is bad, it will run fine but throw a code and drive you crazy.

You say you changed the 2 closet to the front, I assume the manifold units with the blue wire. Instead of changing the other 2, focus on the code and determine which side needs changed. You should have only needed 1 sensor.

Raptor.jpg

[Wdavid]

Wanted to help you out with O2 issues.

First off, are you still getting this fault? If so, please post the whole fault code.

O2 sensors are labeled/programmed a certain way in the ECU. Since you drive a boat on the opposite side of a car and the motor is flipped the labeling and locations are the same.

Bank 1 = Starboard side (Driver's side)
Bank 2 = Port side (Passenger's side)

Sensor 1 is before the CAT
Sensor 2 is after the CAT

Looking at the picture I posted earlier, there are 2 sensors, 1 with a blue wire at the manifold, and 1 in the upper CAT chamber. Manifold is Sensor 1, upper CAT is Sensor 2. Sensor 1 controls fuel/air ratio and if either Bank 1 or Bank 2 sensor 1 is bad, the motor will run rough once up to temperature. If sensor 2 is bad, it will run fine but throw a code and drive you crazy.

You say you changed the 2 closet to the front, I assume the manifold units with the blue wire. Instead of changing the other 2, focus on the code and determine which side needs changed. You should have only needed 1 sensor.

Raptor.jpg

Ok. First, Thank you for following up. I am currently out of state but before I left I ran the boat hard at 30 mph for 45 minutes. No light. With that said, earlier in the day I got a light after I filled the ballasts snd started surfing. Basically under extreme load it throws the code. Someone said I need to check to make sure the wall is not bending from the ballast and bumping a sensor. I will do that upon my return. The exact code is 4238 FMI 0. See attached. I did change the bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2. In addition to making sure all the connections are tight. Should I next change the other two O2 sensors bank 2 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 2? IMG_8881.jpg


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[Wdavid]

Ok. First, Thank you for following up. I am currently out of state but before I left I ran the boat hard at 30 mph for 45 minutes. No light. With that said, earlier in the day I got a light after I filled the ballasts snd started surfing. Basically under extreme load it throws the code. Someone said I need to check to make sure the wall is not bending from the ballast and bumping a sensor. I will do that upon my return. The exact code is 4238 FMI 0. See attached. I did change the bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2. In addition to making sure all the connections are tight. Should I next change the other two O2 sensors bank 2 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 2? IMG_8881.jpg


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Use these I believe? IMG_9004.jpg
IMG_9003.jpg


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[Wdavid]

Should have said should I now change out bank 2 sensor 1 and bank 1 sense or 1 above. Also, not sure if this might have caused some type of underlying issue that has resulted in the code but at one point one of my rear 910 lb ballast bag connections came undone and dumped all the water into the hood. The sump did its job but there was a lot of water around the engine. Could that have caused a crack in the manifold or something else if the water hit it when it was hot?

Ok. First, Thank you for following up. I am currently out of state but before I left I ran the boat hard at 30 mph for 45 minutes. No light. With that said, earlier in the day I got a light after I filled the ballasts snd started surfing. Basically under extreme load it throws the code. Someone said I need to check to make sure the wall is not bending from the ballast and bumping a sensor. I will do that upon my return. The exact code is 4238 FMI 0. See attached. I did change the bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2. In addition to making sure all the connections are tight. Should I next change the other two O2 sensors bank 2 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 2? IMG_8881.jpg


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[Holdmybeer]

Don't think the water hurt you at all. It certainly came out fast but only through a 1" hole so the bilge doing its job would be fine. Also the manifolds are cooled from the raw water impeller and can be touched while running.

As others suggested, the walls could easily be smashing that wire. The port side is in a horrible place from the factory and my blue wire covering is messed up but doing is damaged throwing codes. See if you can re-route the wire and plug it back in and fill the ballast. It could be that easy. If the blue shielding is damaged on either or both start the boat and wiggle the wires and see if you can get the code to pop up.

Good luck and keep us posted

[Wdavid]

Don't think the water hurt you at all. It certainly came out fast but only through a 1" hole so the bilge doing its job would be fine. Also the manifolds are cooled from the raw water impeller and can be touched while running.

As others suggested, the walls could easily be smashing that wire. The port side is in a horrible place from the factory and my blue wire covering is messed up but doing is damaged throwing codes. See if you can re-route the wire and plug it back in and fill the ballast. It could be that easy. If the blue shielding is damaged on either or both start the boat and wiggle the wires and see if you can get the code to pop up.

Good luck and keep us posted

Don't think the water hurt you at all. It certainly came out fast but only through a 1" hole so the bilge doing its job would be fine. Also the manifolds are cooled from the raw water impeller and can be touched while running.

As others suggested, the walls could easily be smashing that wire. The port side is in a horrible place from the factory and my blue wire covering is messed up but doing is damaged throwing codes. See if you can re-route the wire and plug it back in and fill the ballast. It could be that easy. If the blue shielding is damaged on either or both start the boat and wiggle the wires and see if you can get the code to pop up.

Good luck and keep us posted

I changed out the pre O2 sensor after starting the engine and jiggling it. It produced the engine code when jiggled. Additionally, it was noticeably bent from the wall coming in when the ballast bags were full. To that point, some of the plastic from the sensor was on the wall. Once changed, the code went away.

I need to reinforce the engine wall.
Looked at the wakemakers solution. Any other DIY solutions you aware of?


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[Holdmybeer]

You can buy the same aluminum at a local hardware store. Drill the holes and bolt them in.

Use nylon lock nuts, and washers on the plastic side. Run them vertical.
While at it add some sound deadener material to the engine facing side. It will help with noise. Then cover the inside of the v-drice3 cover (aka doghouse).

Good luck and good to hear you found the sensor.