GI to reversible pump ballast upgrade

[crr1876]

Thanks guys. I traced all the wiring and realized I have to cut the zip ties anyway to pull out the old 3/4” fill line and make way for 1” fill line!

So a couple questions I came across today.

I did not want to hard wire all three reversible pumps to the battery as I thought that seemed messy and already don’t like how many wires are in the port storage. So instead I bought this:

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I currently have this under the helm and was planning to swap them

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Anybody see any problem with this? Not sure what all is wired on there currently, will have to figure that out. The red wire that runs from my Perko common stud to that current distribution bar has this circuit breaker in it

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I realize each of these reversible pumps draws 15-20 amps and I have 3 so could anyone recommend an upgrade?? Honestly the guy I spoke to at WakeMAKERS told me an in-line fuse before that blue sea distribution block was overkill and not necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.




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[parrothd]

That breaker is only 50 amps so it may trip on pump startup if you kick all pumps on at the same time. Just turn each pump on separately, not all at once. I've used that fuse box before, since you already have the power terminal I'd just use it and return the fuse panel. Save yourself some work, also you may want to use breakers instead of fuses. They don't fit in that fuse box. I have these, they reset automatically.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB22...2Bbreaker&th=1

[crr1876]

That breaker is only 50 amps so it may trip on pump startup if you kick all pumps on at the same time. Just turn each pump on separately, not all at once. I've used that fuse box before, since you already have the power terminal I'd just use it and return the fuse panel. Save yourself some work, also you may want to use breakers instead of fuses. They don't fit in that fuse box. I have these, they reset automatically.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB22...2Bbreaker&th=1

So do you have those in an in-line fuse like what comes with the kit? Curious how your wiring runs from the battery to your switch if you don’t mind.


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[parrothd]

So do you have those in an in-line fuse like what comes with the kit? Curious how your wiring runs from the battery to your switch if you donÂ’t mind.


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My first 2 installs I added new fuse boxes, the last install I used the wakemakers kit with the inline fuse. Much easier. I replaced the standard fuses with breakers(amazon link). On startup each pump can draw 20-30amps, depending how long they've been idle, the longer the more they stick. This will blow most fuses. I use the fuse breakers because they reset automatically. If you have other accessories(heater?) on that bus bar you can overload the 50amp breaker. If you make sure to turn each pump on separately you should be fine. Everyone once in a while I hit them all at once and pop the 50amp breaker. You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

[gregski]

You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

This is the key. A fuse/breaker protects the wiring and connected components. You can't just increase the breaker/fuse size and call it a day without also being sure that all wiring and components are capable of carrying that full current. You could try to live with the 50A overall limit like parrothd described which might just (barely) work, otherwise you need some bigger cable (there's a lot of factors: I'd use 2 AWG, but 4 AWG is probably OK too). Now, if you are running new cable, I'd probably just leave the existing setup alone unless there was a compelling reason to change it...

[parrothd]

I'm pretty sure I have the same 50amp breaker but I have 4 pumps. I can run them all at the same time with the heater, but it'll pop if I start them all at the same time.

[crr1876]

My first 2 installs I added new fuse boxes, the last install I used the wakemakers kit with the inline fuse. Much easier. I replaced the standard fuses with breakers(amazon link). On startup each pump can draw 20-30amps, depending how long they've been idle, the longer the more they stick. This will blow most fuses. I use the fuse breakers because they reset automatically. If you have other accessories(heater?) on that bus bar you can overload the 50amp breaker. If you make sure to turn each pump on separately you should be fine. Everyone once in a while I hit them all at once and pop the 50amp breaker. You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

So your current install with the kit do you just have all 3 wired directly on one of your batteries, then the in-line fuse breaker? I have all the wire and terminals to do it that way, just being stubborn and wanted the clean install look of a distribution block but realizing between new cable, new circuit breaker looking at 100-120 bucks and more work haha.


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[parrothd]

So your current install with the kit do you just have all 3 wired directly on one of your batteries, then the in-line fuse breaker? I have all the wire and terminals to do it that way, just being stubborn and wanted the clean install look of a distribution block but realizing between new cable, new circuit breaker looking at 100-120 bucks and more work haha.


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On my boat I have it you describe, but on my brother in laws boat the my most recent install we went with direct to the battery and used everything from the kit, fuses and all. Works fine to, if you go that route just make sure to secure the wires to the battery, you don't want them being pulled off when someone stores stuff near the battery.

[996scott]

On my boat I have it you describe, but on my brother in laws boat the my most recent install we went with direct to the battery and used everything from the kit, fuses and all. Works fine to, if you go that route just make sure to secure the wires to the battery, you don't want them being pulled off when someone stores stuff near the battery.

This is how did mine, I used the kit and wired all three directly to one of my batteries and used the inline fuses that came in the kit. I have had it installed for at least 2 or 3 yrs without any problems. I did move my switches from down low where the original switches were to up higher to the side of the drivers seat.

[MJHSupra]

When I did my pump upgrade years ago, I bought a new blue-sea buss dual bar under the helm - not the same one you purchased. I used it for the 3 pumps and my LEDs. Picked a good size wire gauge and used a circuit breaker.

Battery > Surface Mount Circuit Breaker (not sure of the size) > Buss Bar
Buss Bar > Inline Fuse (30a) > Switches.

I think the pumps have a spike of 20-30a when they are first turned-on.