2018 Mooba Max intake hose

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Hello,

Had our boat out for the first time this year and it immediately started taking on water. We got back to the docks and off the water as soon as we could but unfortunately the motor/transmission seemed to be heating up and there was a burnt rubber smell coming from the engine bay. The boat was winterized by our dealer.

Once I got it back home, I found that what I think is the water intake hose was right off and most likely the source of the water entering the boat. Unfortunately, the clamp was very loose, and I can only assume the dealer forgot to attach it after winterization but not sure if this hose is something they remove during the service.

Can anybody comment on what I should do next? What are the chances that this did serious damage to something? Has anyone had this happen to them?

Would it back safe to reattach the hose and try using the boat or should it be thoroughly checked out by a technician? We've come to the lake for the week, and I'd hate to not be able to use the boat should it have to go in for servicing. Today is Canada Day so my dealer is closed so I haven't been able to talk to them yet.

[RUGER761]

Strange they would have taken that hose off to begin with. How high did the temps get on the gauge? The good thing is your closed cooling on the engine. Long as it wasn’t a long time v-drive and trans should be ok.

Reinstall the hose and make sure it’s tight. You’ll for sure need a new impeller and be sure to get all the chunks out. Depending on how hot the impeller got you may need to swap the full water pump out. If the brass is discolored, to which I bet it is, I’d replace the full pump.


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[HFarr]

Do you happen to know how long you ran it like that? Or how hot it got? And did the water level come up above the transmission? Check for water in the fluid. If it were me, I would put the clamp back on, put it in the water, and start it up. Let it idle for a bit and come up to temperature. If it runs fine, then use it for the week unless you notice something strange in how it behaves.

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[Holdmybeer]

That hose does not need to be removed but it is a quick way to drain the raw water system for winter.

I would check your v-drive fluids and make sure they aren't burnt. If you can run it on a fake-a-lake, I would do this in the driveway and make sure youre good first.

The smell was most likely the exhaust boots.

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Thanks all for the quick responses. My wife thinks that by the time we realized we had issues and got the boat back on the trailer we probably ran it for about 10 mins. I went and had a look and there appears to be no water in the transmission and both transmission and engine oil appear to me the regular color and don't smell burnt.

The onboard CPU had 5 fault codes:


ECT higher than expected stage 1
EMWT1 higher than expected stage 1
EMWt2 higher than expected stage 1
EMWT1 higher than expected stage 2
EMWt2 higher than expected stage 2

Tomorrow should be a quiet day at the docks I think I'll back in in on the trailer and let it get up to temperature and see how it does. if it seems like its cooling I'll take it out on the lake for a test. How would I know if the impeller is toast ? I assume the motor will heat up beyond a safe temperature? What is a safe temperature?

I do plan to have the boat looked at by a technician as soon as I get get it in. I assume new impeller and fluids flush will be the minimum needed.

Thanks!!!

[MJHSupra]

How would I know if the impeller is toast? I assume the motor will heat up beyond a safe temperature? What is a safe temperature?

I do plan to have the boat looked at by a technician as soon as I get get it in. I assume new impeller and fluids flush will be the minimum needed.

Thanks!!!

For the impeller, you have to take off the water pump housing cover and remove the impeller. So if you have to do all of that and your impeller has a little age, might has well change it.

If you have missing veins on the part, that means they broke off and could be blocking something. So there are some hoses to check if that happens.

There are no issues to start your boat and watch to see the temps (in or out of the lake) - assuming you have good oil and good levels on the v-drive and trans fluids.
If it starts to get hot (>200'), shut it down immediately - there is where those messages are coming from. The normal temps (probably 160-180').

[Holdmybeer]

For reference my mojo on lake water never goes over 165 even surfing heavy.
Fake-a-lake is 160 but no revving.

Thermostat opens at 160. 210 is first warning. 230 is critical warning. By critical warning your closed loop cooling will be boiling out of the overflow tank.

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**Update**

Thanks all for the help.

I ended up just taking the boat back to the dealership as they promised to make it a priority and look at it same day. I guess they checked it all over looking for any component damage and didn't find any. All seemed ok but they did replace the impeller for me just to be on the safe side. It was it good shape with no chucks missing etc. They got it up to temperature and checked for any leaks motor issues etc and assured me all was good to go again.

Next day I took it on the water and it seemed to run just fine. Water temp stayed and about 160 and oil pressure around 60lbs. The oil pressure did drop down at idle and then up to 60 when moving. I can't remember how low it dropped but I'm not sure if a fluctuation in oil pressure is normal as I've never had to watch it before.

About 1 hour into the trip the bilge pump kicked it and pumped out a bunch of water. We had about 4 inches of water midship and the back under the motor was dry when not moving but the water would flow to the back of the boat while we were moving and get pumped out. I knew we were taking on water again as the bilge pump never really seemed to dry the hull out so we came off the water.

Next day I put the boat back in to see if I could find a leak and I think that water is coming from the water pump. It was running down the U shaped pipe on the water pump and spilling on the brass metal that is attached to the hull below it. So not sure what all the components are. I'm thinking ruger761 is right that the water pump got over headed and damage. I can't tell if its discolored as it's painted black but the paint on it seems bubbled to me (pictures attached).

So back to the dealership it goes. Hopefully is just a new water pump that is needed and not something more than that.

Thanks

JohnAttachment 31049

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Update #2

After posting my last post I took a closer look at the 1st picture and noticed that one hose was further back than the other. I went out to the boat and sure enough that hose is loose and must be the cause of the water leak I can only assume. Not sure how it would have gotten lose as it appears to be a stock crimped on clamp.

We'll see what they say tomorrow.

[Holdmybeer]

Your pump definitely got hot and bubbled the paint.

The hoses loosened up from being heated and the pressure will slide them off.

Your oil pressure should always be 10psi for every 1000rpm. More is ok but less is not. 20-30psi at idle seems to be normal for the raptor. The oil pump is engine driven internal to the engines camshaft and/or crankshaft. It will go up and down with rpm.