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  1. #1

    Default Advice on phase 1 of speaker swap, amp addition, and rewiring

    Hey all, signed up to get some advice on phase 1 of the audio upgrade we're doing on my cousin's new to him 2014 Moomba Mojo 2.5. I don't know what is original vs added by the previous owners. He was going to pay a guy to do it all but I was able to climb around the boat today and I think we can take care of it ourselves. The amp rack setup made everything extremely accessible and seems pretty straight forward.

    Phase 1 - ASAP - speaker replacement, appropriate wiring, & amp addition for towers
    Phase 2 - 1+ year(s) down the road - sub replacement, amp upgrades for seating area & sub

    First, speakers
    • Seating area speakers will be Wet Sounds REVO 6 SWB (4 ohms, 100 watt RMS / 200 watt peak)
    • Tower speakers will be Wet Sounds Rev 10 B-FC (4 ohms, 300 watt RMS / 600 watt peak)

    Second, the mix & matched amps and where I'm struggling with wiring and setup ideas. I've bold, italicized, and used red front for my choice of connection.
      • 125 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (200 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)
      • 400 watts x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) - Towers

    • Kicker 40KX8005
      • 50 watts RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms + 200 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms
      • 100 watts RMS x 4 @ 2 ohms + 400 watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms 2 in front bow seating area, 2 in rear seating area aimed forward, & sub under helm
      • 200 watts RMS x 2 bridged @ 4 ohms + 400 watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms

    • Kicker 11DX3002
      • 75 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms - remaining 2 in rear seating area
      • 150 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms
      • 300 watts RMS x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

    One of my first concerns is power for the new amp. Here is a pic of the distribution block/rail. Boat has 2 batteries and 2 amps already. The DASH POWER and ACC slots look unused so I was thinking it may still have enough to run another class D amp (the WS SYN-DX4). If I'm clear on power, the rest is just wiring in the new power line, grounding to the far right bolt with the other 2 grounds, and figuring out where to mount the new amp on the board.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Henderson, NV


    2 thoughts on this but sure others will have opinions....

    -I'd run all the cabin speakers on the 40kx and run the bow on the 11dx. gives you an easier route to fade out the bow if you like and runs same power to all speakers in the cabin area. all imo.
    -I'd check the power requirements of the equipment you are installing and ensure the power/ground ran to that buss and the fuse that's installed on it are all rated to handle the added load both currently and if you upgrade the amps at a later date. my gut says skiers choice did not run a large enough wire nor enough fuse to support a 3 amp system in it's current state let alone an upgrade in amps down the road. I've upgraded several boats and running a 1/0 to a dedicated distro block and same ground was the first upgrade in all 3 systems. that buss bar is OK but I'd spend a few $$ while you have the hood up replacing it with a unit that more fits what you are trying to do. if you do reuse that oem, please tell me you have a cover for it

    good luck.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Lake Wylie NC Area


    Your audio equipment source can and should be a resource for making sure you have adequate cabling gauge and circuit protection. They can also assist with setup and tuning. But here are some basic thoughts;

    In terms of power cabling gauge and circuit protection, you need to look at the potential power consumption of the system as a whole, and not from the perspective of how many amplifiers are there. Not only does each amp need proper circuit protection and proper gauge cabling, but that trunk line needs to be able to support the potential load.

    The 800.5 can easily power 3 pair of speaker. So id say you may not need that 300.2. The 5 chnl will allow for fading bow to main cabin, if desired.

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