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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013

    Default Additional items for new boat

    I know these seem like simple questions but since this is my first boat, I figured I would ask the pros especially if there are clear choices I am not aware of. I have a list of items to get together that I have pulled from past posts on this forum but I am trying to finalize a couple of smaller items on my list.

    1. I have already purchased the jumper balls for fenders since that was recommended here but what do most people use to attach these to the boats and what length?

    2. I am also looking at the box anchor. I know they claim that you need less line with the box anchor. Do you use an anchor buddy type of product or something else and once again, what length. I know this varies depending on conditions. Our boat will rarely be kept on the water and when it is, it will likely be anchored off shore.

    3. What do people use for dock lines to tie to the dock if needed and is there a recommended length.

    4. Do I really need a tow rope?

    As you can tell, I am not exactly sure what I need as far as ropes/lines go because I wasn't sure if some of these can cross over and be used for multiple different purposes. I do want to make sure if purchase what I need though.

    Thanks for your help!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2014 Mondo

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Lake wallenpaupack PA


    I always carry towropes. There are a lot of crappy boats on the lake that may need your help... I just used 2 of the heavier tube ropes. Hook one each to your tie downs and the other ends to the bow eye of the other boat

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    North End Lake Lanier GA


    1. I prefer 5.8 rops and between 6-9ft in length. This gives enough length to drop the ball to the needed hieght and still tie off to your tower, or cleats.

    2. I have 2 sections of rope i use. 2x 100ft, I normally only need the 100 but then I have the second if i need it.
    I dont use an anchor buddy, If my boat is tied up its normally shallow enough I can walk out to it.

    3. As above I prefer 5/8 ropes. 6-9ft I have several tied to my Exile Balls, then I keep 4 extra on the boat for what ever reasons I need them.

    4. I have a pretty heavy duty rope I use to tow the big air plane wing tube we have. I use this if i need to tow someone in.

    I have found the most important thing on the boat is Knife, flashlight, Fuses, Needle nose, reg plyers, cresent wrench, flat screw driver, philips driver, 3/8 ratchet kit with sizes from 8mm-9/16th. That covers almost any size you might need for an on the water repair.

    I also carry 2 rider flags, incase I lose one or someone on the water needs 1. I have a real nice one then I always grab a couple cheap ones when I'm at the dealer or someplace offering them.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Default Additional items for new boat

    2nd the knife.

    Last year we ended up getting a line tangled in the prop. It took nearly 2 hours of swimming under the boat while anchored to untangle it. Had I had a knife, I could have cut it away instead of unwinding it. After I got it untangled, I ordered a dive knife on Amazon before we pulled the anchor.
    2016 Mojo
    2012 LSV (sold)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair

    Default Additional items for new boat

    Dive mask or goggles for when you're having to use the knife. I'd suggest a knife with a serrated blade or edge so you can saw thru the rope.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Vancouver, WA


    All good suggestions.

    -Wire cutter can cut rope fairly well if a knife doesn't (speaking from a few experiences)
    -Spare keys - stashed up under compartment or dash somewhere.

    In addition to the various ropes I've started to carry a small spool of string or twine in with my tools. If we encounter a stump or rock up near the beach where we pull up for the day I'll take an empty water bottle and tie it off as a marker. This little tip has saved our butts, and prop, (and probably others) on more than one occasion.
    The years have been kind, it's the weekends that have done the damage.

    2001 MobiusV - Loaded with Ballast, Exile, Blood, Sweat & Tears

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


    I prefer slightly thinner longer dock lines. I think that mine are 3/8"x15'. This has them thin enough to easily fit through the boat's pop-up cleats along with the 1/4" fender loops, and long enough to float the boat off the trailer and just walk to the adjacent dock. This lets us vacate the ramp immediately, even if various crew are prepping or using the loo.

    Having an extra dock line or two is good for general purpose tying. For example, when docking overnight at a cottage, I use a third dock line as a backup in case one of those cleats on the decaying dock gives way overnight.

    +1 on having a heavy tube rope (50' polypropylene rated for 4K lbs, looped at both ends) to double as a boat tow rope.

    I use conventional cylindrical fenders. The stern fender is whatever the most common one is at the supply store -- 6"x18", I think. For the bow, I have a larger one, 8"x24" or so. Smaller ones get pushed out of the way too easily.

    I have a box anchor that I haven't used yet. Since the occasions that I drop anchor are typically in no more than 25' of water, I use only a 50' section of anchor rope. It has loops with metal reinforcements preset at both ends. I use simple spring spring-loaded carabiners at each end for our lunchtime breaks, but I'd do it right if I ever anchored overnight. I have a small Danforth backup anchor with 100' of line. Anchor lines should be nylon, which is fairly stretchy.

    I have two cheap plastic crates as dry boxes. In one, under the observer seat, is all of the smaller or less-used items related to watersports on the boat -- extra gloves, goggles, wakeboard binding screws and fins, pump for the hydrofoil's shock absorber, and other accessories that accumulate over the years. In the other box, stored under the lounge seat behind the driver, are tools, safety and first aid items. Items that I would add to what's listed by others above would be a large pair of pliers (for fasteners that are too big for smaller sockets), After-Bite bug bite treatment, emergency whistle, paper towels, extra oil of correct viscosities for engine and V-drive, funnel with tip narrow enough for V-drive.

    Permanently located in a cupholder near the stern is a large Phillips screwdriver for wakeboard binding screws.

    For a wakeboard tow rope, always use one of the current no-stretch lightweight materials, such as Spectra. Use an actual wakeboarding handle. Forget the cheap stuff from the hardware store, where you get polypropylene rope that stretches and handles that sink after an hour of immersion in water. We always keep at least TWO wakeboarding tow ropes in the boat. The main one is a Straightline Flat Line that adjusts in sections from 50' to 80' ( The other is some long-forgotten brand that's permanently set to 75' and has a deep V handle for learning on the hydrofoil ski, but can be repurposed if the Straightline gets lost or damaged. I also have a very old sacrificial line with a loop tied at about 30' to give beginner wakeboarders a less threatening start, closer to the boat. I don't know why they sell tow ropes in blue or green. Pick colours that have high contrast on the water! White, yellow and orange are best.

    Here are two pieces of extra safety equipment that few use, but I do!
    1. Bug Eye crash goggles, to prevent "eye opener" effect from a face plant.
    2. Neck Roll to reduce risk of hyperextension whiplash-type injuries to the neck. This works best in conjunction with a helmet.

    Of course, we have helmets in a variety of sizes. A watersport helmet MUST fit correctly to be of benefit. Most of mine are older ProTec, but one of them is a newer Bern and it's much better. Any newer helmets that I get will probably be Bern brand. Ear flaps are mandatory, but the Bern ones need to have more vent holes drilled through them.
    Last edited by Ian Brantford; 02-13-2014 at 05:45 AM.
    2005 XLV, upgraded ballast, Comptech swivel wakeboard and hydrofoil racks, Monster cargo bimini

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Hilliard, Ohio


    A floating knife is what I bought after a rope and prop issue.
    First Aid kit
    One thing that I like to do is match the lines to the boat color, then when time to leave you an easily tell who's is who's.
    Suction Cup Coolies.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Tallahassee, FL


    I would add:

    1. Floating key chain for your keys and your extra key hidden up under the dash.
    2. Extra sunscreen/bugspray, etc.-- whatever would mess up your day if it was forgotten.
    3. Last year's impeller in a plastic bag in your tool kit plus the tools to remove an impeller.
    4. Moomba coozies to keep your can/bottle insulated.
    5. Beer and ice (this may be #1).
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    P5 Danielo Diamond 58"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    In Limbo....


    Quote Originally Posted by mmandley View Post
    I also carry 2 rider flags, incase I lose one or someone on the water needs 1. I have a real nice one then I always grab a couple cheap ones when I'm at the dealer or someplace offering them.
    I should send you mine. I always carry the main one and 2 spares for the guy that drops it in the lake, but they are not needed out here. I did have to start carrying flares when heading out into the green bay harbor to the sandbar to party. expensive to buy and they have an expiration date. heard it's a hefty fine if you don't have them.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

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