




When I was out with my LSV towing a tube I could yank the steering to throw the tube into a slide out of the wake. By leaning the boat over and pulling around the sound of the boat would change, this is the prop running in the wash off the bottom of the boat which is an air/water mix. Once you put it down the noise goes away.
That is what I found anyway. I filled the center sac and never heard the prop again.
Generally running a prop in air or air/water is bad. At leat that is MHO.
SD2
Naked red and white 2005 Moomba LSV
Teaching my kids to Ride, Shoot Strait and Tell the Truth
Smokedog,
Is what you are describing called cavitation? I have read threads on other BBs that indicated under various conditions and different boats, cavitation can be a real problem, but I don't really know or understand what it is.
Shoe
Yep, one type of cavitation. It can also be caused by poor prop selection, poor trim on an o or I/O, wrong prop for weight etc. My 40 hp Honda will cavitate at top end when empty. The prop is designed to move three guys, two dogs a layout boat and 150 decoys so it "cuts" more. I am no expert but the Board boat is not designed to yank & bank empty. Just add a little weight to keep the prop in the water.
I think porposing is also a form of cavitation.
Where the heck is Brian, he would know better than I would.
Ha I see Brian is still at work - what is your $.02 at this late hours? I will find out tomorrow
SD2
Naked red and white 2005 Moomba LSV
Teaching my kids to Ride, Shoot Strait and Tell the Truth
The "chatter" that is felt is caused by turbulent water passing the rudder under certain conditions. This will vibrate the cable inside the sheathing up to the rack at the helm. This makes the gear mesh between the helm and cable also vibrate. This is common on the rack steering system. Brian Raymond
Brian,
I spoke to you last week about this happening on my 05 LSV. Took it to the dealer and they checked everything and said the exact same thing in your last reply. They said turbulent water passing the rudder. My dealer did a great job. Took in on Thursday and they were so busy they could not fit me in, however, they stayed late on Friday. I spoke with the service manager at 8:00PM and they had mine ready so I could pick it up on Saturday.
Great job Atlanta Marine. Kurt and Lisa run a great dealership. Thanks to Brian (not Brian Raymond), their service Mgr for fairly quick turn around.
Now, I also give a big thanks to Brian Raymond for speaking with me on the phone last week to help me understand everything that was going on. Oh yeah, one problem they could not replicate is my trailer shakes from side to side at approximately 25-30 MPH. Anyone else having this problem? Other than that, it is a Great Boat.... 05 Mobius LSV.
Thanks Guys.
Clark
Clark
2017 Moomba Craz
Raptor 400
Pacific Blue / Graphite
1st - 1983 old brown boat - not sure the make
2nd - 2001 Bayliner 185 4 cyl. Sold
3rd - 2005 Moomba Möbius LSV. Sold
I was in the process of starting a new thread, when I found this one in a search. I'm having the same problem.
Background: 125 hours, 2001 Mobius. Just replaced the steering cable with the Teleflex SSC15418 (I'd recommend the SSC15419 19' cable, as the 18' cable was 10" shorter than the one installed). This cable makes the steering feel like butter...very nice.
Condition: Full throttle, loaded boat, rudder near center. Turbulence or cavitation on the rudder is transmitted from the rudder, to the cable, to the rack, and into the helm. I can actually feel the vibration in the cable when I reach beneath the dash. It feels like a rattle or chatter.
Causes?: It may be just the cavitation, as Brian has said, and it may be normal. However, it is unnerving. I worry that there is too much slop or play in the steering cable clamp block and/or in the clevis where the cable attaches to the rudder control horn. I was able to replicate the feel by moving the clamp block against it's stops where it hits the cast mounting. I don't know if this is what I'm feeling in the helm, or if it is just a vibration coming up from the rudder.
Can anyone confirm that this is a normal condition? I really don't want to spend the $$ on a new clamp block and clevis only to find out that it's not a problem.
Jimmy
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=14645
This was the thread I'd created about replacing the steering cable.
Check how much "play" you have in your clamp block. Mine needs to be replaced also.
2008 Outback V - gravity III ballasts, perfect pass star gazer, hydraulic wake plate, depth finder, water stainer, rad-a-cage tower, board racks, tower mirror, bimini top, audio package d, graphics package e, appearance package, cockpit & tonneau cover, mooring cover, black stainless rubrail, docking lights, OJ 14.25x14.0 prop.
Toys: Ronix Viva 136 with Kai bindings, Phase5 Drew Danielo Pro, Straight Line Sumo Sac 750lb, 450lb, 125lb ballast.
Last summer I had the same problem, it was a slightly bent prop and the locking nut had slid down the shaft and prop was not super tight on the tapered shaft. I put a rebuilt prop on and all my problems went away once it was seated properly on the drive shaft.
It my sound like I negected my boat but is sits on a lift and I never had it on a trailer all summer so I was just something I never thought to check.