Winterization Procedure with pics - new and improved

**cab13367** · 10-12-2009, 12:35 PM

Originally Posted by mcdye

Awesome work.

I was reviewing my notes that I made when I brought my boat. The dealer and I did the water drain since I brought the boat in the winter and we did a sea run. The only additional item that I had in my notes was to drain what he called the "J" hose. You can see it in the second picture up. It is between the thermostat housing and the lower part of the engine water pump(not fresh water pump). We disconnected from the pump end and drained.

Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)

McDye,

You piqued my curiosity so I went out and pulled the bottom of the J hose this morning (I already winterized my boat using my write up so I did not previously pull this hose). I got no more than ¼ to 1/3 cup of water out of it. I think that most of the water in the hose drained out the engine block drain holes and the little bit of water I got out is what was sitting in the bottom of the “J” so if it was to freeze, it would have plenty of room to expand.

In any case, I agree that this hose should be drained as the goal is to get all the water out. I will revise my procedure accordingly.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention.

**cab13367** · 10-12-2009, 04:24 PM

Originally Posted by DOCDRS

good addition , i have always disconnected the j hose, alot of water comes out of here, plus i was amazed how much water comes out the muffler on my v drive

thanks for the great pics and posts

How much water comes out of the J hose and the muffler I think depends on what you do first. I removed the block plugs first and got very little water from the muffler drain and the J hose.

**cab13367** · 10-12-2009, 07:55 PM

Write up has been revised to include the "J" hose, both the version with pics on page 1 of this post and the text version only on page 8. I will also make a separate post to make this point so that those that are going of the old write up will be aware.

Thanks again.

**cab13367** · 10-12-2009, 08:13 PM

Originally Posted by mcdye

Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)

mcdye,

I noticed that the inside of the hose outlets are very rusty so I would be interested in this. How would you get the rust inhibitor into all of the water passages in the engine? I suppose that filling the system with antifreeze as opposed to draining all the water would help prevent this.

**DOCDRS** · 10-12-2009, 10:47 PM

cab , great write up, pics and awesome to keep updating. As a diy'er access to information is very useful. Brian Raymond at SC has also been a valuable source of information if needed. keep all the good work

**DOCDRS** · 10-12-2009, 11:03 PM

Winterized mine saturday and the nuts on the vdrive were a royal pita. I couldn't loosen them so i put a shop vac on one end of the unit to suck out any ridual water then ran plumbing antifreeze thru it. came back to it later after i was done everything as to not let a little bolt get the better of me. I got the rear one loose figured it was lower than the front so the better of the two and having removed both intake and discharge hoses no antifreeze drained out the bolt hole. Don at Aquamarine didn't think there would be much after disconnecting the hoses....he was right...but i had to find out for myself.

Did some research on the dripless shaft seal systems and it appears as they are self draining and actually when operating one saying upto a gallon per minute. so apparently no real need to do any winterizing here....... and nothing was mentioned to me as far as i know by my dealer......

**cab13367** · 10-12-2009, 11:27 PM

doc,

You're fine. Nothing ever comes out of the front v-drive plug. Dealer told me it was a vent so I should not expect anything to come out of it. Did you use a closed end, 7/16" wrench as shown in the pic? It fits perfect. If you can find a make shift cheater bar such as the right size pipe, you should be able to break it free. But no real need to.

**DOCDRS** · 10-12-2009, 11:53 PM

Cab
actually used an open 3/8 or 5/16 not sure which one that fit perfectly with a cheater to get it loose , will prob just use shop vac to blow out and use antifreeze next year as thats prob even over kill. Always nice to hear what others do

**mcdye** · 10-13-2009, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by cab13367

mcdye,

I noticed that the inside of the hose outlets are very rusty so I would be interested in this. How would you get the rust inhibitor into all of the water passages in the engine? I suppose that filling the system with antifreeze as opposed to draining all the water would help prevent this.

Sorry I was not clear, I was not refering to inside the engine. But to coat the outside of the engine with something to prevent corrison. It is in my Indmar manual.

For internal I would suspect that antifreeze would be the answer.

**dhickey** · 10-16-2009, 01:00 PM

Originally Posted by DOCDRS

Cab
actually used an open 3/8 or 5/16 not sure which one that fit perfectly with a cheater to get it loose , will prob just use shop vac to blow out and use antifreeze next year as thats prob even over kill. Always nice to hear what others do

Cab - I also used a 3/8 wrench for these plugs. You sure you have the right size in your document?

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