No more sprinkler valves

[tazz3069]

What did you use to grind of the outer cup? I might want to do this instead of taking it all off, getting holes fixed by a person you know gel coat, and put in the new fitting. To find out that this might not work. I just do not want to spend anymore money.

[Razzman]

Tazz, use a cutting disc on a hand grinder followed up by a dremel or something similar to clean it up and fine tune it.

[Fman]

Do not grind down the scupper on the boat! That would be VERY difficult to do without damaging your gelcoat. Not to mention, you would have flying brass right in your face, even with goggles on it would be very dangerous!

Take it off and put it in a vice, grind it down, then re-install. It will go back on with no problems, just make sure to use some 3M 4200 marine sealer all over it. Again, make sure and wear eye protection and long sleeves, it will produce a ton of brass slivers that can penetrate your skin.

[Fman]

Good news, I finished the install of the tsunami's last night and took it out on the lake this morning for a test run. So far, so good, no leaks! and everything seems to be working great. I will be gone all week with the boat and it will be a good test run to see how it works.

I was not able to use the stock manifold that Supra uses, so I went down to Home Depot and put together one made of brass. It turned out very clean and works great. Its a pretty tight fit but I am very happy with the way it turned out, very low to bottom of the boat, so far it primes with no problems at all. I can see water start creeping up the tubes when plaining on water (25+ MPH) but so far it does not reach the vented loop, which is what the vented loops are designed to do.

Do have one question, does anyone know if the vented loops are supposed to open or closed? There is a valve on top of the loop that turns, I am not sure if I am supposed to have all the way closed or open. Right now they are in the closed position.

I will post some pics when I get back from vacation and give an update on how everything is working. Total install time was about 7 hours, and cost is right at about $300. I had to buy about 25 feet of 3/4" flexible bilge tubing to make some new runs with the vented loop system. Also the brass manifold was about $35 in parts. I could have used PVC but brass is so much stronger and I did not want to risk the PVC breaking from any rough waters in the boat, not to mention the heat of the vdrive/engine compartment is has to survive under.

Travis....

[tazz3069]

Glad to hear that they work. This week, i will be taking off the ones that I have installed and grind off the scoops. The season is ending here soon. I would love to dial this in before the season is over. Thanks for the update on your system. I will do the same and hope everything works. Can you take pictures of where your loops are. Mine are in the far back of the boat the the lopp in the front is just above the vent hose on the driver side.

[Fman]

I ran my vented loops in the rear ski lockers in the front section on the carpet panels, as high up as I could possibly mount them. I ran the center bag vented loop right next to the right side vented loop in the rear ski locker. Wakemakers recommended the center to be put under the drivers dash, I figured if it was not going to fill the rear sac why would it fill the center?? I am on Shasta lake all week with the boat, I will definitely have a good feel if this is going to work.

I am going to post pics of the entire project, I think grinding your scupper will make a huge difference. I can even see some pressure building without it on, can only imagine how much is generating from the scupper.

Talk to you later.

Travis

[Fman]

One other question, are you opening the vented loops or keeping them closed???? I have the valve on top completely closed, do not know if it is supposed to be open or closed????

[tazz3069]

What do you mean open or closed? I do know that the duck bill needs to be facing down. When I put the cap on, i put it on finger tight.

[Aquaholic]

I'm doing the same upgrade...Where did yall find the the brass barb needed for the shutoff ball valve? Also why could'nt you reverse the direction of the scupper to stop the water injection?

[tazz3069]

Good question. The only thing that I can think of is if you need to prime the pumps. How will that happen if the scuppers are reversed. I thought of that same thing. I was under the boat and was thinking how I can utilize the scuppers I already have. The only suggestion that was made was to cut off the cup itself. I still might keep the front part of the scupper. Any little helps to keep debris out of the pumps.