Heath Exchanger Gasket leaking

[chezdude]

It seems that the lower gasket on my heat exchanger has started leaking. I tried one trick I saw online and pulled it off, flipped it over and put the end cap back on. I need to see if I maybe put it on too tight, but I am still getting leaking out of it. The gasket itself didn’t look to be in bad shape, just a little deformation on it in the areas that don’t contact the cross bars (not sure what they are called) and it seemed pliable and not cracked.

I tried to find a new gasket, but the only place I could find the engine diagrams was on the Indmar AU website, and they list the part as a 6” heat exchanger gasket (part number 1977222, listed on the diagram as 277.2 - https://www.indmar.com.au/enginesche...-system-2.html). There is no way this is a 6” wide part, but even then, the one listed on the Indmar AU site doesn’t have the hole through it for the drain plug.

Anyone have any suggestions for what to look for on the end cap or gasket for why it’s still leaking? Note that the engine temps are solid, generally running right at 165 or so. So the exchanger is getting enough water. It’s just that the bilge pump has to run every so often to pump water. Flipping the gasket and reseating it seemed to have helped reduce the amount of water, but I’m still getting enough that the bilge has to run every so often.

[HFarr]

Maybe apply a thin smear of RTV on it and then put it back on?

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[shall]

It seems that the lower gasket on my heat exchanger has started leaking. I tried one trick I saw online and pulled it off, flipped it over and put the end cap back on. I need to see if I maybe put it on too tight, but I am still getting leaking out of it. The gasket itself didn’t look to be in bad shape, just a little deformation on it in the areas that don’t contact the cross bars (not sure what they are called) and it seemed pliable and not cracked.

I tried to find a new gasket, but the only place I could find the engine diagrams was on the Indmar AU website, and they list the part as a 6” heat exchanger gasket (part number 1977222, listed on the diagram as 277.2 - https://www.indmar.com.au/enginesche...-system-2.html). There is no way this is a 6” wide part, but even then, the one listed on the Indmar AU site doesn’t have the hole through it for the drain plug.

Anyone have any suggestions for what to look for on the end cap or gasket for why it’s still leaking? Note that the engine temps are solid, generally running right at 165 or so. So the exchanger is getting enough water. It’s just that the bilge pump has to run every so often to pump water. Flipping the gasket and reseating it seemed to have helped reduce the amount of water, but I’m still getting enough that the bilge has to run every so often.

Having the same issue and wondering how you resolved it.
Thanks!

[chezdude]

Having the same issue and wondering how you resolved it.
Thanks!

I just removed the bottom cover, took the gasket and made sure it was clean, lined it back up on the plate and carefully screwed it back down. The hardest part was making sure it didn’t rotate relative to the draincock.

I have had the boat out a few times so far this season and the issue seems to be gone.

[HFarr]

Never had mine off before, so I am shooting in the dark about what it looks like,but can you spread a thin coat of RTV silicon gasket maker on it?

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[kkfacer]

Fixing the bottom leaking Seakamp heat exchanger - Indmar Raptor 6.2 Engine with the Seakamp heat exchanger.
This heat exchanger has a internal engine coolant side and a raw water cooling side. The raw water cools the internal engine coolant.
After winter storage, I found that my Seakamp heat exchanger was leaking quite bad (spraying water!) from the bottom of the heat exchanger. I forgot to open the drain valve and left water in the exchanger over the winter. (bad boat owner).
Luckily for me, the bottom end cap is made of brass and deformed from the cold and water (ice).
I removed the heat exchanger from the boat; 6 hoses, two hose clamps holding it to the bracket and two bolts on a bracket to actually get the exchanger out. (got antifreeze all over, but its poly-glycol based and washes away with water)
After its out of the boat, remove the bottom brass end cap by taking out the bolt that is in the center of the end cap. Inspect the brass end cap to check for any warp or bend in the end cap.
On a flat steel surface (sledge hammer side or anvil) carefully flatten the end cap back out. Be careful! Brass is very soft and does not take much to re-shape. This is both good (easy to re-shape) and bad if you hit it too hard it will deform into a different diameter.
Once you get it flat, then you can re-install over the rubber gasket. Line up the drain hole in the gasket with the drain plug.
Be careful not to overtighten as this will cause the brass end cap to bend in at the center and lose its seal.
No need to add RTV or other sealant.
Re-install into the boat and add coolant. Mine took almost a gallon of StarCool. Start the boat and check for leaks at the hose connections and at the bottom of the exchanger. Add coolant as necessary when the engine reaches operating temperature.