Electrical issue | Systems flicker on/off

[philwsailz]

If you go the solar route, know you probably need to fuse the +12v charge lead going to the battery, right at the battery. It is easy to overlook this, as common sense tells us we need to fuse loads, (i.e. stereo power wires) but not charging devices. Let me explain:

As I shared above, the best way will be to build a permanent solar charging system at your slip. To make things easy, you would have a shore-power plug on your boat, with wire from the socket going to the battery. This wire between the shore power socket and the battery would be permanently installed and connected to the battery, and is a potential ignition source in the event of a shorted power lead. It is for this fact that you want to install a fuse on the +12v lead, preferrably within seven inches of the battery.

I figured I better add that...

Phil
Kicker

[JDSmith]

Thanks for the Feed Back guys. I think my only remaining question here is, all 5 of my batteries were brand new and fully charged and I was still having this issue. No matter what I do with recharging the batteries at the end of the day it seems to me that there is still some sort of electrical issue with there not being enough juice to go around. If shore charging is the straightest line from point A to point B with the battery issue, what's the straightest line for the electrical issue? How can I reduce the load or increase the amp supply the easiest and most efficient way?

Also, I had seen this on a different thread but I have not tuned my amps yet. Does tuning them (adjusting the filter etc.) have any effect of the way the amps draw power? Could this in fact solve the problem? Just thought I throw it out there.

Justin

[EarmarkMarine]

JD,
Certainly all Class D amplifiers is the most important step to improve efficiency (that alone is a 60% improvement). Selecting the correct highpass filters on all applicable components is a huge difference. Using a subsonic filter on the sub helps. Removing any EQ boost or bass boast on a high output system helps. A really well designed and executed audio system can be half the current draw at the same output as a poorly engineered system.
You still should take a number of measurements and definitely check the status of your existing batteries even though they are relatively new. A consumer grade deep cycle battery will punish your wallet if you repeatedly run it down below 12.0 volts (half charge). A cost-prohibitive commercial grade will allow deeper cycles without the rapid degradation.

David

[philwsailz]

Thanks for the Feed Back guys. I think my only remaining question here is, all 5 of my batteries were brand new and fully charged and I was still having this issue. No matter what I do with recharging the batteries at the end of the day it seems to me that there is still some sort of electrical issue with there not being enough juice to go around. If shore charging is the straightest line from point A to point B with the battery issue, what's the straightest line for the electrical issue? How can I reduce the load or increase the amp supply the easiest and most efficient way?

Also, I had seen this on a different thread but I have not tuned my amps yet. Does tuning them (adjusting the filter etc.) have any effect of the way the amps draw power? Could this in fact solve the problem? Just thought I throw it out there.

Justin

This may be a dumb question, but I have seen it before. Do you have ALL of your grounds for all 5 batteries tied together?