Results 1 to 10 of 32
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08-31-2012, 11:08 PM #1
Blue Seas Switch & ACR - Where to buy and how to wire...
So now that you guys have helped me pick out my stereo HU, amps and design my sub enclosure, I just need the battery upgrade and charging system.
I plan on adding;- A Blue Sea Switch
- A Blue Sea ACR
- A second battery
- Promarine 20, Dual Bank Charger
- What part numbers for the Blue Sea Switch and ACR?
- Where to buy - Where online?
- Wire it per the following (except modify it for my Kicker amps and no ZLD) and yes I read the thread that I stole the diagram from!!
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08-31-2012, 11:16 PM #2A Day at the Lake...Priceless
A Day in Powder...Endless
Joe V
2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
2007 Outback V ~ sold
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09-01-2012, 12:01 AM #3
I got mine at:
http://www.marinepartssource.com/new...ank%20Combiner
Cheapest I could find it.
If you want the diagram in visio I can email you the original. Send me a PM.2011 Mobius LSV
Ron
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09-01-2012, 08:48 AM #4
The link above is for correct Blue Sea 7610 ACR. The proper switch is the Blue Sea 5511 (the 6011 is the mini if your space is limited). Or, you can by the Blue Sea "Add-A-Battery" Kit with both together, part number 7650.
The current flow of the wire diagram you posted is spot on in regards to how the switch, ACR, amps, batteries and charger are wired.
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09-01-2012, 11:51 AM #5
Sorry about that. I got the add a battery option.
2011 Mobius LSV
Ron
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09-02-2012, 07:33 AM #6
I also did the Add a Battery kit, got it on sale at West Marine.
Just added an ACR and 2nd battery to my buddies LSV and also got the ACR at West. ~$100 in stock makes impromptu projects easy!2013 Outback V
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09-04-2012, 08:48 PM #7
Well, I stopped by West Marine today and picked up the ProSport 20 and the Blue Sea "Add a Battery" kit.
I am almost done with my sub-enclosure and am waiting for my amps to get here.
I have modded rca's diagram to match my components:- Do I need an inline fuse at the (HU) head unit?
- I left the ground strip in before the HU for future, is this a good idea?
- Any general comments? Changes?
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09-04-2012, 09:12 PM #8
1) The head-unit has a fuse in its power harness to protect the rest of the circuit if an internal short where to occur. Having an in-line fuse at the source where head-unit obtains its power, is a good idea to protect that circuit if there was a short in the circuit between the head-unit and source. The odds are very slim, but it doesnt hurt,
2) I see no issue here
3)You will not need 1/0 GND and B+ for the IX1000.5. 4ga will be fine.
4) Whats the distance between the B+ distro-block and the amps? Is that B+ block a fused or non-fused?
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09-04-2012, 11:20 PM #9
I put the 1/0 in due to the amp specs for "largest conductor..." which I understand is the largest that the lug will accept.
I used the listed total Total RMS Power = 1,000 watts/12V = 83 amps
When I did the calc, with 1.5' length and a 2% Voltage drop, I got a #8 AWG. I don't mind using #4s or even larger as the runs are very short from the distro block to the amps even though the larger wires can be more difficult to run. I figure that the amps, batteries and blocks will be in the storage area.
4) Whats the distance between the B+ distro-block and the amps? Is that B+ block a fused or non-fused?
And for the the B+ block, I haven't purchased any yet -- so any suggestions???
As a matter of fact, when I was in West Marine today, I had my grubby mits on a couple of ground strips of different sizes (one had 3/8" lugs), but then I figured that I should finish this diagram first!!
Thanks again for any help! Eric.
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09-05-2012, 09:59 AM #10
You would have a hard time getting 1/0 into the lugs. 4ga will serve you just fine. Its not overboard, nor is it cutting corners. Although that amp calls for a 100A external fuse based on its potential draw, due to its efficiency, I doubt you would see a continuous draw over 60A. Keep in mind that the cable gauge calc's need to include the length of the GND cables as well. I bet if you recalculated using 3", that you would come closer to 4ga.
With your scheme, I do not see a need for anymore fusing past the main 150A breaker you have right off the battery. You can use a pair of non-fused distribution blocks or BUSS bars. If you do go with marine BUSS bar, like what you probably looked at at West Marine, I would recommend one with a cover for the B+.