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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    North End Lake Lanier GA
    Posts
    8,155

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    @ RD i bet when they installed the 7 pin on your pops truck it was the same time they installed the 7 pin for his trailer, so they just matched them up. I was able to use the little wire diagram on my & pin connector on the truck to match the boat trailer.

    KurtL the only way i know to fix your rain issue is move to where the rain doesnt like to be, AZ or NV but then again i understand if they dont fix the water issue there wont be drinking water in the next 10 years in those 2 states.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    [COLOR="#696969"]

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    132

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    It seems like anyone who has to back up an incline runs into this issue. My dealer looked at me funny when I said the reverse solenoid wasn't working right - he said none of them do. Told me to put in the little metal lockout disc and problem's solved... BUT the problem is when you stop going down a hill, need to back up, and the brakes are already engaged... disc doesn't fit and requires quite the gyrations with chocks (feel like I'm doing several chinese fire drills) to get things going.

    I had some wire and went through connecting each prong on the vehicle to the running lights to see which one was which. I've got the 7 flat on the vehicle, and then a 7-5 adapter to connect to the trailer lights. Also found this diagram.


    Neither the brake or reverse light prongs are powered when I'm in reverse. It doesn't help that when I ask other people about the issue - they think I'm talking about electric trailer brakes and go into a whole spiel about them.... It sounds like basically you just want the "purple" backup lights wire on the vehicle to connect to the blue trailer brake wire?? So when I'm in reverse, the blue wire on the trailer is powered. Is this right? OR should the blue wire on the vehicle control this?
    2010 LSV

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    6,380

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    Quote Originally Posted by schuylski View Post
    It seems like anyone who has to back up an incline runs into this issue. My dealer looked at me funny when I said the reverse solenoid wasn't working right - he said none of them do. Told me to put in the little metal lockout disc and problem's solved... BUT the problem is when you stop going down a hill, need to back up, and the brakes are already engaged... disc doesn't fit and requires quite the gyrations with chocks (feel like I'm doing several chinese fire drills) to get things going.

    I had some wire and went through connecting each prong on the vehicle to the running lights to see which one was which. I've got the 7 flat on the vehicle, and then a 7-5 adapter to connect to the trailer lights. Also found this diagram.


    Neither the brake or reverse light prongs are powered when I'm in reverse. It doesn't help that when I ask other people about the issue - they think I'm talking about electric trailer brakes and go into a whole spiel about them.... It sounds like basically you just want the "purple" backup lights wire on the vehicle to connect to the blue trailer brake wire?? So when I'm in reverse, the blue wire on the trailer is powered. Is this right? OR should the blue wire on the vehicle control this?
    The middle pin should control your trailer brake solenoid. It varies in color on different vehicles I would guess but on your trailer side of the connector you need to make sure that the wire that controls the solenoid (blue one is what everyone is saying) is wired to the middle pin on the connector. The trailer brake wire is for electric trailer brakes which we do not have. When the solenoid wire on of trailers sees 12v from the reverse lights it activates and will prevent the brakes from locking up in reverse. So on your diagram the purple reverse light wire needs to connect to the blue solenoid wire on your trailer and they should both go thru the middle pin.
    David

    2017 Moomba Mojo Max Surf Edition, 2 Pair Wetsounds Rev10s powered by an SD2, 6 pair Wetsounds XS650M and Wetsounds XS12 powered by SD6 all controlled by a WS420. 2 Lumitec SeaBlaze X2 Spectrum underwater lights

    SOLD***2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Javelin, Exile 30.2***SOLD

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    North End Lake Lanier GA
    Posts
    8,155

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    RD is correct, what your really looking for is 12V hot all the time when the trailer is plugged in. The forward mostion of the breakes will always work as this is a pressure system and the 12V all the time will keep the solinoid activated and allow you to back up.

    It doesnt have to be switched when you put the truck in reverse. If you really want that function you will need to tap directly into the back up lights of the truck.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    [COLOR="#696969"]

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    3

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    Open drivers door and look at the side of dash. There are additional fuses there and on my old boat before I got my 2010 Moomba it blew a fuse a week! Mine was a brake light fuse for trailer hitch but might check inside that panel too!
    2010 LSV Gravity 3 ballast, White over Black/Black with Chrome Moomba, Wake plate Perfect Pass Wake Pro.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    132

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    Thanks guys- this weekend I'll check it out
    2010 LSV

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    503

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    I'm glad I saw this post. Just had this issue this past weekend. Backed the trailer up the street a ways to make room to turn into my driveway, backed up just fine. Then, went to start backing into my actual driveway (both are uphill slightly) and the damn thing wouldn't move easily. Tried it last night again to make sure it wasn't a fluke, and sure enough, the brakes go right on. I was curious the best way to trouble shoot this, so, now I know!!

    I'm hopeful it's just one of those wire splice connectors, and not the solenoid.
    2015 Supra SC400
    08 LSV - Sold
    Go big, or go home.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    132

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    From what I've read the solenoids are pretty rock solid.... easy way to check or deactivate brakes-

    Disconnect plug and line up the 5 flat trailer connector so that the top "blue" trailer wire will plug in to the 2nd pin from the bottom on the vehicle connector (where brown trailer wire usually goes) It has to be on a weird angle, almost 45 degrees, and is tricky to jam in there but you can do it - wish i had a picture. Then turn on your headlights and you now have powered the solenoid and you should be able to back up. If that doesn't work - then there may be issues with the solenoid.
    2010 LSV

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    503

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    Unfortunately, it looks like my problem is a bad solenoid. I got good 12v power and ground to the solenoid, and nothing. So, looks like I'll be bleeding brakes here in a week or so!

    Thanks for all your help guys!! Especially the Pacific Trailers website. Cheapest spot for those solenoids that I've found!!
    2015 Supra SC400
    08 LSV - Sold
    Go big, or go home.

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