




Two reasons: (1) If they trip, I can just flip the lever to reset. Don't have to worry about carrying extra fuses. (2) I have an onboard smart charger (ProMariner ProSport 20) that can direct more current to the battery that needs it (usually the stereo battery) but I also have an Automatic Charging Relay that will combine the batteries once it senses the charge, thus defeating the benefits of the smart charger. So when I plug in my smart charger, I open both the thermal breakers which isolates the ACR, which means it can't combine the two batteries when the smart charger is plugged in. Make sense?
That's the Blue Sea Automatic Charging Relay (ACR). When the boat is running, it automatically combines both batteries so that both are getting charged by the alternator. When adrift or anchored, it automatically isolates the batteries so I don't accidentally run the starter battery down. I set the battery switch to ON and forget it.
They are made by absolute. I got them here, except the new ones have a built in digital amp gauge.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-DICB100.html
Right! Leads is the right term, not cables. Thanks for setting me straight.
I have the helm bus (which feeds the heater, blower, lights, etc.) and starter connected to the house battery and the head unit and amps connected to the stereo battery.
Since I added a third amp this winter, I am going to be adding a second stereo battery this spring just to make sure I don't run out of juice on those 3 and 4 day weekends with no access to 120V power in between days on the water.
Al
2006 Mobius LSV