I've read several threads here about the topic and wanted to contribute back to the community my experiences. This will serve as a 'that was neat to read' picture thread as well as a rough DIY manual for those interested. Feel free to ask questions if I left out a detail. Enjoy!

Shopping list (admins, delete links if not allowed):

Slide - $78
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Locking Swivel - $23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aluminum Plate - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hardware - $40 (Local Tractor Supply)
  • 4x 5/16-18x1.5" (Slide to Floor)
  • 4x 5/16-18 Nyloc Nut (Slide to Floor)
  • 4x 5/16-18 Fender Washer (Slide to Floor)
  • 4x 5/16-18 Washer (Slide to Floor)
  • 4x 1/4-20x0.75" (Slide to Swivel)
  • 4x 1/4-20x1.5" (Slide to Swivel)
  • 8x 1/4-20 Washer (Slide to Swivel)
  • 4x 1/4-20 Nyloc Nut (Slide to Swivel)
  • 8x 5/16x1x1/2" Nylon Spacer (Slide to Swivel/Swivel to Seat Plate)
  • 4x 5/16-18x1.5" (Swivel Plate to Seat)
  • 4x 5/16-18 Washer (Swivel Plate to Seat)
  • 4x 5/16-18 Split Lock Washer (Swivel Plate to Seat)
  • 4x 5/16-18 Nut (Swivel Plate to Seat)


Preparation:

This is the reason I started this project. Aside from the obvious fear of Tetanus, my wife did not enjoy trying to drive a new boat at surf speed, with surf ballast, with the seat all the way back. It's the little things apparently...



Remove the floor. There are several stainless phillips head screws around the perimeter of the floor that you can see from the cabin, along with several inside the perimeter lockers that are threaded into the end grain of the floor. I will note, the floor is freakishly heavy. Especially when you don't have a floor to stand on anymore. That is my warning, remember, I told you so...



I cleaned up the rust stains in the floor seat pedestal by wet sanding with 1000 grit paper. I chose to mount the slide upside down from a traditional manner. Most all the slides I found online expect you to mount the smaller 4 bolt flange to a post adapter that would then mount over a cylindrical post - think center console. The LSV's seat riser had reinforcement blocks at each corner, but nothing connected and I was afraid if I mounted the smaller base downwards it would crack the fiberglass. It happened to work out perfectly dimensionally to be upside down. The only drawback is as you slide the seat forwards or back, the handle stays static to the floor - not an issue for me, I have gotten used to it immediately. The 4 5/16-18x1.5" bolts were used to bolt the slide to the floor. I centered it left and right on the fiberglass mount.