Ethanol vs non-ethanol, problems?

[sandm]

I understand guys who are wrench savy, but regular joe would struggle with understanding the catch can maintenance.

meh. just have them blow the oil under the car onto the street. no different than all the cigarette butts you see people flick out the window. society today doesn't give 2 poops about littering


I do jest

[larry_arizona]

meh. just have them blow the oil under the car onto the street. no different than all the cigarette butts you see people flick out the window. society today doesn't give 2 poops about littering


I do jest

Bwahahaha, you could use it for oil slick mode.


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[sandm]

way to put your james bond hat on

[Matt0520]

For the record, Costco gas is top tier.




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Good to know! It’s the best and cheapest near me!


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[Jeepers]

So how come I can put a stock truck
running 87 octane from the factory on a dyno......say a GM 5.3L and increase the timing and fuel tables with 93 octane and make more horsepower?

How did GM in 2014+ have the 5.3L make 355hp 383 ft lbs on 87, but when running 105 octane E85 it makes 380hp and 417 ft.lbs knowing GM increase the timing tables when the alcohol sensor reads 85% alcohol?


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The HP increase comes from the timing modification not from the 93 octane fuel. The 93 octane fuel allows you to advance the timing without getting pre-ignition.

Advancing the timing is moving back from TDC, earlier in the compression cycle. Due to the length of time it takes the air/fuel to burn after it's ignited, it is ignited prior to TDC, giving it time to burn and gain peak combustion, which then forces the piston down.

As the octane number increases, it becomes harder and harder to burn. This helps prevent pre-ignition only and has nothing to do with HP gains.

This also answers the last part of your question. If you use a lower octane rated fuel in an engine not designed for that octane the engine can not run efficiently. When the “APPROPRIATE” octane rating for that engine is used, the engine runs at optimal efficiency which translates into more power output. It’s modifications which are adding the HP, not the octane.

Using higher octane fuel in an Unmodified engine gives you nothing. Once you modify the engine: advance the timing, increase compression... the higher octane fuel is needed to prevent the air fuel mixture from igniting too early in the compression stroke. That’s it. There’s nothing magic about.

Is octane important? Absolutely? But more is only better when you’re modifying the engine or designing the engine to run at higher compression ratios and combustion timing modifications. To get the full benefit of the modification you need a higher octane fuel (again, simply to make the fuel more difficult to ignite either under pressure or higher temps.

Again: The 1st octane booster was lead. Lead is not flammable. Adding lead simply made it more difficult to ignite the fuel. It reduces the fuels volatility. However, once the fuel is ignited high octane fuel and low octane fuel produce the same energy.

It’s the modification that produces the HP. The higher octane just allows you to maximize the advantage of those modifications. If there’s no modification your just wasting your money on the higher octane fuel.

There’s like 10,000 articles on the internet about this.










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[Jeepers]

tuning is one of the best ways to get more poop out of a motor without changing the octane or compression requirements.
the raptor 400 and 440 motors are identical. only difference is software. where is the extra hp/tq coming from the 440?
personal experience. in 2006 I drove my evo9 to oregon. car was filled with 91octane premium(recommended by mitsu). a guy named Jestr flew from Florida for a tuning session. strapped the evo to the dyno. base pull was 302hp/297tq. only opened the hood to cool the engine-no parts added and nothing mechanical changed. no changes to fuel or additives. 7 pulls and 30 minutes later. dyno reads 363hp/362tq. where did the extra 60hp/tq come from with no changes in octane or compression.
take a car tuned on 87, feed it 93, change nothing else and if you messed with the tune you will get more hp/tq out of it. messing with the timing and fuel delivery will net more power.



read this article and see that in Boise's case ALL fuel is coming from the same source whether it's ethanol/non-ethanol/top tier/discount. additives are added later. the couple stations that sold both mid grade ethanol and mid grade non-ethanol are getting them out of the same bulk tank of fuel.
interesting that I would bet a lunch spokane is operating the same way as some of your gas is coming through the same pipe from boise and some from billings thru a similar pipe/delivery system. betting money just like boise the additives/ethanol are put in once in the area.
https://www.idahostatesman.com/news/...e40864992.html .




had one in the evos. just don't let the emissions testing stations catch you primary goal was keeping the oil out of the intake tract. iirc I dumped a small amount each month. probably a 1/4qt each oil change.

Good article regarding Dyno test.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...-dyno-numbers/


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[Jeepers]

https://youtu.be/gqvhaPLuTPI


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[Jeepers]

https://www.bellperformance.com/blog...Octane-Ratings


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[larry_arizona]

https://youtu.be/gqvhaPLuTPI


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This dudes videos are pretty damn good. Well explained about how you can make more HP with higher octane if you add timing and how low octane will drop to lower timing tables when knock is sensed.

This is of course assuming the engine is tuned for the higher octane.


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