Battery type

[MLA]

I guess it was not explained to switch to 1 or 2 when anchored?

[rdlangston13]

I have never had stereo pop upon start up, that goes with starting with battery one, two or one and two together. Also my dealer installed an AGM battery in my boat, it's what was in it when I took delivery. Strange they told you not to use one. I love AGM, adding water is a PITA.

I also run my boat in 1+2 all the time unless im anchored for an extended period with the stereo on, then I used just 2 (2 GC batteries wired in series). Guess I need to stop that.

[KnoxMojo]

RD, I think the popping is more of a Supra thing with the ICE system than what happens on startup with the Moomba's. Our Mojo never popped, but there is a slight pop on the SA, but not bad enough for me to worry about right now. I was also told to run in either 1 or 2 after crank up, not both, as running both may stress the charging system. Not sure how true that is, but not had any issues running it like that yet.

[Prospersigman]

I have always run in 1+2 when starting up and when surfing, wakeboarding, etc. When I get to party cove I switch to battery 1 or 2.

I do have the loud pop on start up and cannot get rid of it starting with battery 1, battery 2 or battery 1+2.

I would think that after the "thermal event/bad alternator scare" that they just had that we would get a definitive answers to questions concerning this and a resolution to the popping on startup from Goose or one of the Tinkers.

[KnoxMojo]

MLA, you have any thoughts on the Supra voltage drop pop and running all the time in 1+2 stressing the charging system or not? Could a larger ground be ran or even a cap added to maintain a certain level on crank up? I know mine isn't bad, but I have been on a few that sounds like everything is bottoming out its so loud. Can't be good long term for the system

[zabooda]

I got thoughts and I laugh at the premise that the electrical system is to blame. The power system can't be changed. The equipment connected to the power system needs to be adaptable. Component line filtration is required for sensitive electronic equipment. Look into a L or Pi filter. They are normally built into systems but not every manufacturer does this.

Isolating the electronics from the starter at startup should never cause noise unless the cables are so close to induce noise. Running banks 1 and 2 should occur when the engine is running.

[KnoxMojo]

Found this, explains it very well.


https://www.boattest.com/view-news/3...switch-dilemma

[MLA]

MLA, you have any thoughts on the Supra voltage drop pop and running all the time in 1+2 stressing the charging system or not? Could a larger ground be ran or even a cap added to maintain a certain level on crank up? I know mine isn't bad, but I have been on a few that sounds like everything is bottoming out its so loud. Can't be good long term for the system

Is it correct in that the pop only happens when the stereo is on and you crank the boat? No pop if you turn on the stereo with engine off, or wait to turn it on after the engine is running? The recommendation to run on 1+2 seems like they are chasing a voltage sag.

First have to determine which circuit is falling out of sequence. Is it the IGN turn-on? (may not even be one). Is it the constant B+? Or is it the amps hitting their voltage threshold and cycling off then back on.

Both the ground and B+ share the load equally, so if one needs to be upped, both would, unless one is smaller then the other, which would be odd.

Load, or stress on the charging system is relative to the discharged level. So two batteries can be now more load to the alternator then one battery. Think of audio amplifiers. five 100W amps are in theory, no more of a load then a single 500W amp. Same with batteries.

A large stiffening CAP may "fix" the issue, but they can be a liability to the battery(s) on toys that are not used regularly.