Looking for complete step by step procedures for Winterizing 2017 mojo pro indmar 400

[nvald1982]

hi everyone, has anyone posted a detailed step by step for the indmar 400 with pictures correlating the area, looking to do it myself at the end of 2018.

Thanks

[RC_Hinojosa]

This isn't super detailed (has pictures/descriptions) but if you are even a little bit handy it should help you get the job done....

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hm...NL4R0gBHMqpoDL

[rdlangston13]

1. Add stabil to fuel and top off tank
2. Connect water hose to the flush assembly and close the valve for the water intake on the bottom of the bilge.
3. Turn on water hose and run engine up to operating temp.
4. Shut down.
5. Remove all water from cooling system starting by
a)turning off and disconnecting the water house
b)opening the water intake valve on the bottom of the bilge
c)opening the water strainer to drain it
d)removing the first plug from the bottom of the v-drive (faces the front of the boat)
e) disconnected the hoses that connect the exhaust manifolds and letting them drain into the bilge
f) remove the blue plug from the bottom of the heat exchanger
g)remove the blue plug from the bottom of the coolant pipe near the front of the engine
h) remove the water pump impeller cover and impeller from the front of the engine
i) allow all water to completely drain, then reinstall all plugs, reassmble the strainer, and reconnect the hoses from the exhaust manifold
j) put the cover back on the impeller housing but do not install a new impeller (install a new one before you run it in the spring during summerization)
6. Use an oil extractor to remove oil from the engine via the hose on the starboard side that goes down to the bottom of the oil pan.
7. remove old oil filter and install new one
8. fill engine with new clean oil
9. (optional) remove spark plugs and spray a small amount of fogging oil into each cylinder via the plug hole, turn engine over with plugs removed to coat cylinder walls with oil, reinstall spark plugs
10) disconnect all ballast bags and add 1/4 cup of bleach to each bag to prevent mold
11. run ballast pumps forward and reverse for a couple seconds with bags disconnected to ensure they have no water in them
12.check water level in batteries and top off as needed (only for batteries that require maintenance)
13.cry as you put the boat away since it will not be used in a while and crack open a beer.

[RC_Hinojosa]

13.cry as you put the boat away since it will not be used in a while and crack open a beer.

THIS, SO MUCH THIS!! Crack open a beer while you make your winter boat payments too, stings a little less, LOL.

[BigOrange]

"i) allow all water to completely drain, then reinstall all plugs, reassmble the strainer, and reconnect the hoses from the exhaust manifold
j) put the cover back on the impeller housing but do not install a new impeller (install a new one before you run it in the spring during summerization)"

So, I'm curious....does it really matter if all those plugs are reinstalled for the winter? My practice has been to leave them out and reinstall once I'm getting ready in the spring; including leaving the coupling hose at the v-drive transmission undone through the winter. Is this a concern?

[RC_Hinojosa]

So, I'm curious....does it really matter if all those plugs are reinstalled for the winter? My practice has been to leave them out and reinstall once I'm getting ready in the spring; including leaving the coupling hose at the v-drive transmission undone through the winter. Is this a concern?

I don't think it really matters but if left out, that's one more thing to keep track of and/or lose.

[rdlangston13]

"i) allow all water to completely drain, then reinstall all plugs, reassmble the strainer, and reconnect the hoses from the exhaust manifold
j) put the cover back on the impeller housing but do not install a new impeller (install a new one before you run it in the spring during summerization)"

So, I'm curious....does it really matter if all those plugs are reinstalled for the winter? My practice has been to leave them out and reinstall once I'm getting ready in the spring; including leaving the coupling hose at the v-drive transmission undone through the winter. Is this a concern?

I think some people have had issues with the threads rusting over the winter making the plugs difficult to get back in. If that is not an issue then I don't think it matters. I just like the have the shortest possible summerization and I dont want to forget a plug I took out 4 months ago.

[BigOrange]

I think some people have had issues with the threads rusting over the winter making the plugs difficult to get back in. If that is not an issue then I don't think it matters. I just like the have the shortest possible summerization and I dont want to forget a plug I took out 4 months ago.

10-4. I thought rust might be the reason. Thanks!

[Paulyb]

1. Add stabil to fuel and top off tank
2. Connect water hose to the flush assembly and close the valve for the water intake on the bottom of the bilge.
3. Turn on water hose and run engine up to operating temp.
4. Shut down.
5. Remove all water from cooling system starting by
a)turning off and disconnecting the water house
b)opening the water intake valve on the bottom of the bilge
c)opening the water strainer to drain it
d)removing the first plug from the bottom of the v-drive (faces the front of the boat)
e) disconnected the hoses that connect the exhaust manifolds and letting them drain into the bilge
f) remove the blue plug from the bottom of the heat exchanger
g)remove the blue plug from the bottom of the coolant pipe near the front of the engine
h) remove the water pump impeller cover and impeller from the front of the engine
i) allow all water to completely drain, then reinstall all plugs, reassmble the strainer, and reconnect the hoses from the exhaust manifold
j) put the cover back on the impeller housing but do not install a new impeller (install a new one before you run it in the spring during summerization)
6. Use an oil extractor to remove oil from the engine via the hose on the starboard side that goes down to the bottom of the oil pan.
7. remove old oil filter and install new one
8. fill engine with new clean oil
9. (optional) remove spark plugs and spray a small amount of fogging oil into each cylinder via the plug hole, turn engine over with plugs removed to coat cylinder walls with oil, reinstall spark plugs
10) disconnect all ballast bags and add 1/4 cup of bleach to each bag to prevent mold
11. run ballast pumps forward and reverse for a couple seconds with bags disconnected to ensure they have no water in them
12.check water level in batteries and top off as needed (only for batteries that require maintenance)
13.cry as you put the boat away since it will not be used in a while and crack open a beer.

Good afternoon,

I am just curious To why you run it to temp on a hose? To ensure the fuel stabilizer gets into the fuel system?

Thanks,

Paul

[sandm]

easier to extract the oil. it flows better when warm.
some will say to get sta-bil into lines but there's no guarantee running to oper. temp will fill the lines.