Help pick cheap subs for our pontoon boat...

[sandm]

if you look at the op thread, he wants to add 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. I would think any of the 12's mentioned would add some bass to the system for just chillin on the lake. I put a kenwood 10 in a box on my sis tooner that came out of my old supra and it does a decent job of providing some bass, but like david mentioned, it can't be heard 100yards away. not the goal tho and I'm sure it's not the goal of the op.

at the prices mentioned, I'd pull the plug and play around with them. heck, if the 2 on top do no good, sell them on cl and recoup 75% of your $150 outlay

he did mention that jl is out of the price range for his intended application and so would exile-should leave it at that

[EarmarkMarine]

Thanks sandm. A reasonable voice.
Originally I was trying to offer Eric some advice with a degree of substantiation but without getting too technical. There is much more here than just 'boundary loading' or other regurgitated stuff that someone read on the net.
Think this through. This is real. There will be a test.
The speed of sound is 1128 feet per second. So let's say we gladly sacrifice all really deep base knowing we are in an open field environment without reinforcing planes. But if we are running a party barge with four 12s we at minimum expect some good Michael Jackson Thriller type bass. Good ole punchy bass. So let's focus on 55 Hz. You are not going to get deeper bass anyway in this situation. Okay, that constitutes a 21 foot long waveform. At half that length (10.5 ft.) when the perception point (your ears) is close to one group of woofers then the output of the two woofer groups are out of phase and directly cancel one another. The cancellation is not as steep on either side of the 55 Hz frequency but the negative impact is still impactful. Does that 10.5 ft. distance sound somewhat coincidental to the distance between the upper and lower decks? Then compound that with the comb filter (cancellations) effects of the water plane and various points of perception. All variables and 90 percent of them are bad. Again, reflected energy out of phase with the direct energy at a given point of perception. The woofers and driving amplifiers will work against a huge acoustic handicap over their entire range where you expect a contribution. Soooo, I recommend a single and collected woofer position as close to the water level as possible (lower deck). Make a controlled compromise. Change the design model a bit and you will be far happier in the end. Seems simple enough to me.

David

[beat taco]

It was a joke to the OP no need to rip me or Exile David! Sorry you felt the need to rip me, I'll pray for you. Thanks.

[EricU]

Wow! didn't mean to for anyone to get any feathers ruffled, MLA and David both gave me some great guidance with picking out my Moomba's amps, HU and help design my sub-enclosure (which I will finally finish covering this week!) and it sounds great!!

That's why I posted my question for our pontoon boat as I want to get the stereo installed before this next season (April?) and thought that at those rediculously low prices compared to the JL W6s I would just get four - but I am NOT an audio engineer by any means and that is why I do listen to others' input. I am a structural engineer who grew up as a carpenter and I can build (and take apart) anything.

So let's actually get this design started, since I am starting with a blank sheet as I have, well nothing! No amp, no HU, no speakers, no idea what I am doing...

The boat is currently getting repowered (a new 150 4-stroke California friendly Merc) and we are going to replace the front soft canvas cover with a hard deck for more room up top. We can easily have 15 teenagers on a trip.

Anyway throw me some suggestions...

1. Go with one JL W6 in a ported enclosure?
2. Use 2 or 4 of the Sonix cheapies?
3. Keep the enclosure on just the lower deck?
4. Bolt the enclosure to the bottom of the upper deck?
5. 2 subs next to each other under a seat on the bottom deck?
6. Go get some Pork to throw in the WFO (wood fired oven)? (in the backyard not on the boat)

And yes, I have fixed the windshield on the Moomba since that pic was taken!



Thanks, and I look forward to your guy's input, Eric.

[EarmarkMarine]

Now I've lost interest.

[EarmarkMarine]

Just kidding. I couldn't stop myself.

Eric,
It has to begin with the supply.
How about starting with the available amperage supply of the outboard motor alternator/stator.
Considered a Gen? How long will this pontoon be playing in the course of a day?

David

[jfox8807]

hey eric as far as subs go imo i love the re audio se-x line. they have 10-15" i think so which ever size u want i think they may be over ur price just a hair but they are really nice and sound great. ive heard numerous people compare them to jl w6's and say they where right there with them as far as output and sq. might be somthin to look into i got mine from sonic electronix

good luck with the project Fox

[beat taco]

Sorry Eric it was a Ziiiippppp joke after your "move ballast switches" thread. Recommend more expensive options. I guess I need to take a break from posting for a while.

Good luck guys, nothing but respect for all of you. If any Oregon guys see me out there say hi.

[EricU]

Sorry Eric it was a Ziiiippppp joke after your "move ballast switches" thread...

Trust me! I do not get upset over anything that people post on forums! And I have learned alot (spent a lot? Zipped alot?) from this forum.

Anyway, to answer David's question,

1. Not really going to rely on the outboard's altenator for the main stereo power
2. Plan on having multiple batteries for the stereo
3. We already have one of those little Honda EU3000 Watt generators
4. Don't have any amps or a HU
5. I have not yet figured out how I will be framing the new front upper deck, Aluminum, Stainless, ????
6. I do have a nice new table saw that keeps calling me...Ericcc, Errrr rrricccc!! (been watching too many horror movies with my youngest...)

Eric.

[EarmarkMarine]

Eric,
If your alternator size is adequate there is no reason for it not to service the stereo & stereo batteries until the desintation is reached and the engine is turned off. This might extend your playtime, reduce discharge levels and prolong the batteries lifespan. After depletion you would not re-introduce the alternator, in any case, to the stereo battery bank again within the context of that day. So on that basis the alternator/stator capacity is good info to have.
Planning on having a substantial shore charger?
Did you plan on using the above mentioned Gen on the boat as standard equipment? If so, will the charger be asked to function as a power supply/convertor?
What kind of play time at rest are you expecting?
Will the volume be kept at a level that is safe for children and will it be louder on occasion with adults only?

David