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Thread: DIY Shower Install
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05-02-2014, 09:52 PM #51
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05-03-2014, 10:55 AM #52
Looks good!
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PWI as usual...
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05-03-2014, 06:18 PM #53
i wanna build one this week. beej, where did you get your pump at? my buddys a plumber so we can mount everything, i just need a pump. im assuming a 12v 4gph pump.?
Last edited by motosno963; 05-03-2014 at 06:26 PM.
2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
Rockford fasgate cabins
Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
Exile XM7's
Exile Harpoon
Exile ZLD
Polk 10in sub (2)
Polk P330 amp (subs)
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05-04-2014, 02:06 PM #54
Got the pump from RV Upgrades it's a REMCO pump. Here is the link.
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Power-...66-1e1-80a.htm
I ordered the valve/switch from Heatercraft:
http://www.heatercraft.com/flush-mou...e-with-switch/
Then Lowe's for all the brass and nylon fittings, hose clamps, hose, wiring, and shower head (used a fireman's style garden hose head for $3.50)
The only issue I encountered yesterday at the lake was it kept popping the 10 Amp fuse when I left it armed. The pump is an on demand so it tends to "bump" when it's armed but not running. I upped the fuse to 15 amp and havn't had any more issues after a whole day on the water. The heatercraft website said to run the 10 amp, but the pump instructions said to run 15 so I'm not too concerned about overloading the wiring based on that. I ran 12 and 14 ga. wire for the whole system. Ran the pump ground and positive wires straight to the orange and black alternator leads which keeps the pump turned off when the boat is off.
Water was 58° yesterday and the novelty of having hot water in the suit before I got to surfing was awesome. I'm also really pleased with the pressure from the pump. It's more than enough to shoot some water to neighboring boats this summer or fill balloons or whatever.2007 LSV
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05-04-2014, 03:14 PM #55
sweet. thank you. im planning on going out this coming weekend and we have a half suit to wear so this will be a plus when we get out of the water.
2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
Rockford fasgate cabins
Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
Exile XM7's
Exile Harpoon
Exile ZLD
Polk 10in sub (2)
Polk P330 amp (subs)
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05-20-2014, 12:19 PM #56
Beejwest, where exactly did you tap in for the hot water lead off the engine. The pic you have shows the brass fittings and shutoff valve but I can't make out where on the engine it is... Port/starboard, was there just an existing plug? Also, could you use galvanized pipe fittings instead of brass?
Thanks
Steve2008 Mobius LSV
1100#er's in the lockers
ski locker sac
IBS
Johnson reversibles
3 vent heater (which my family loves)
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05-20-2014, 12:29 PM #57
I tapped the block plug on the starboard side of the engine, so it's closer to the pump. It's a brass plug about 1/3 of the way from the front to the back below the spark plugs, right on the block. There are pics of it in the winterization sticky on this forum. I use a shop vac when I pull the plug to suck water out of the block so it doesn't pour into the bilge. Then take that plug into a plumbing store and match the threads. I don't know why you couldn't use galvanized, but I'm not for sure. Maybe someone else can comment on that? I used brass because it's soft and I knew it wouldn't screw up the threads in the block if I cross threaded/over tightened. Plus that's what Newty used. I was copying lol.
2007 LSV
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05-20-2014, 12:34 PM #58
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....ith-pics-by-Al
Here is the link with pics from Al. He has some pretty good shots of the plug hole, with wrench sizes.2007 LSV