Dripless seal is dripping

So 2015 Mojo. Supposed to be the dripless seal, correct?

Summerizing took place today, took no time at all. Hooked up fake a lake and ran to 165* and checked all the normal things. Saw a little water under the v!drive and sure enough a drip every 2 seconds. I engaged the prop at idle speed and the drip got worse but nothing crazy.

My question, how hard is this fix? It looks to be 4 bolts to disconnect, pull shaft, replace seal, re-install, but nothing is ever that simple.

Also, listening to the radio while doing my work. Fired the boat and the RA205 is now stuck on the FUSION splash screen. Is this toast now?

Some more sesrching....radio is most likely dead...upgrade to RA210 or something else?
Dripless seal doesn't look horrible to change. Anyone that has done in, how hard is the shaft/coupler to get off? This is my only concern. And which new seal, PSS, OJ??

So water was dripping under the boat from the shaft? That would be normal, it’s water cooled.

If you mean in the boat water was coming in from the shaft seal while using the fake a lake that would be really weird. If you end up replacing the seal buy a glide drip less, they are great quality. I replaced mine a year or so ago, it was a bit of a project, but not terrible. You need a special tool, Ron tanis sells them from his website, can’t remember what it was but he also has a YouTube channel that explains it.

Bummer on the radio, I’m counting the days until mine goes out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b83b35591a.jpg
This is the coupling separator you will need, plus a few hefty wrenches because the shaft really doesn’t want to come loose!

Yeah the dripless seal is acting like a dripping packed seal.
There is water coming out of the front in the hull. I know it is supposed to drip under the boat since it is being water cooled.

I found the 1-1/8 guide seal. Cost isn't bad just concerned about time. Season is just starting so better now then mid-season.

The radio sucks...it was working the whole time I was putting plugs back in and cleaning. Fired engine on fak a lake and boom nothing but the splash screen.

Looks like a new RA210 is in my future.

About the Glide dripless seal. 1.125 shaft any idea what length you ordered?

I'm not sure where to take the measurement on the old unit.

Not sure on length, just ordered it from the dealer

Ordered from Glide this morning.
1.125 x 1.75 (shaft size x mounting port size) not length. My mistake on the last question.

I went ahead and ordered new strut bearings also. I don't have a vibration or anything but I have to take the shaft out already and don't want to do it twice. They gave me a deal and is adding in some swag to sweeten the mess I'm about to be in.

I am making that coupler tool myself. I had some scrap around and an old harmonic balancer puller I can modify to fit. Hopefully this comes apart easier than I am stressing over.

So, the dripless seal... we had ours leak last year during summerization as well. Dealer said the transmission had shifted, putting the shaft out of center, most likely due the previous owner hitting something with the prop, ruining the seal. We had noticed excessive water coming into the bilge which was from the seal. Dealer said they had to remove the boat floor to make the fixes. Depending on why you seal is leaking, you may be in for a good time.

No damage that I can tell.
The boat and seal have 570hrs on it. Shaft is straight based on runout. My seal never made my bilge run, it was just a nuisance having 3-5 gallons in the bilge after a day on the lake. I think it just wore out.
Was your shaft contacting the thru-hull port. Mine isn't completely center vertically but is horizontally. There is clearance all the way around the prop shaft.
I'll keep you guys updated. Starting tear down Wednesday.

My boat only had about 250 hours. Shaft was straight, but the transmission was slightly shifted, pushing the shaft to the wrong position. It isn't completely centered vertically, like yours, but is perfect horizontal. I don't know where it was connecting, but like you we had 3-5 gallons at the end of the day. I was really freaked out later in the season when we were seeing a lot of water again, but discovered a leak in one of the ballast bag fittings. Oh well.

The parts guy at the dealer told me that the original seal they put in was crap, that’s why he got me the glide seal instead. I think it’s pretty normal for it to not be perfect center in the housing, most important is the alignment
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4809fc8edf.jpg

I went with Glide. Tim (owner) asked about damage also. I hope it is just wear. I guess the glide system makes up for some non-center issues but would rather not have to do this more than 1 time every 500-600 hours.
I'm changing the strut bearings for the same reason. It's already apart and this will tell me if I need to loosen motor mounts and move things. I'm planning this to be 4 hours of work. I'll report back once I'm done. YouTube makes it look simple!!!

Yep already had that page bookmarked. I checked it at current state amd it says I'm good. Hopefully when it goes back together it stays the same.

Update.....NEED THE PULLER...building 1 tomorrow in my shop. Holy crap that is on there.

Everything else came apart nicely and quick but man that is on there.
I marked the shaft so I know where to reinstall. New strut bearings will go in the freezer once the coupler comes off. Alignment check before removal, gap between flange was less than .003" so should be good to go.

Here's a pretty good video for replacing the shaft seal. It's a DD with a whole lot more working room than a V drive. They are using the ARE specialty tools in the video.
I used long bolts and a socket to force the coupler off. It's a taper fit so it doesn't come off easily.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERxONEpGV_M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VA LSV

Here's a pretty good video for replacing the shaft seal. It's a DD with a whole lot more working room than a V drive. They are using the ARE specialty tools in the video.
I used long bolts and a socket to force the coupler off. It's a taper fit so it doesn't come off easily.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERxONEpGV_M

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I watched that video before. If only it was that easy. The needs pushed out or the coupler pulled off, either way would work. My harmonic balancer puller was close but wasn't quite wide enough. It wouldn't set straight and being keyed and tampered, it has to be a perfect straight pull.

Should be good to go once I get the tool made.

So when measuring for your clearance, you just measure it after removing the bolts securing it to the flange? I wanted to check mine but wasnt sure on the procedure.

I checked mine with the bolts in and tight and got nothing.
Then I loosened the bolt but didn't remove and checked again being carefully not to "break the seal" between the 2 flanges.

The bolts were not "Hulk" tight in mine. Basic hand wrenches broke them free with ease.

Built the tool...took 3 minutes to mount on the couple flange took 2 pulls with a rachet and it popped. It was so easy I thought I broke something.
All replaced now. Back together and ready for testing. Come on warm weather!

Now let's see what I can do for my dead Fusion 205!