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I have a 2011 LSV and this winter I added the Go Surf Assist tabs.
I had 750 in the rear lockers, and I just upgraded to the 1,100.
I'm lost my get up and it sounds like I'm struggling, so I was wondering if a different prop would help?
On a different note. With the bigger bags. What can I do to speed fill up times?
Thanks
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Do you have reversible pumps?
As for the prop see what you have first as far as size/pitch and part number. You can then either upgrade to the ACME 1433 (14"x14.25") or the ACME 1617 (14"x13.75")if you are really struggling an are at elevation as well.
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I have a 2011 LSV with 1100's in the rears also, I had an ACME 381 prop that came with my boat and it was struggling pretty bad when fully loaded, I switched to an ACME 537 last year and it was definitely better, no issues with getting up to speed/on plane. I just ordered a 1617 yesterday as all we do now is surf, I can tell you how that is after the weekend. Also make sure your wakeplate is all the way up, my boat wouldnt even get on plane with the 381 and the wakeplate down or partly down and fully loaded.
Wakeplate down should HELP get it on plane, not hurt it. THE NEW boats, like my 2017 Craz , deploy all the tabs all the way down whenever you take off, to help me get on plane faster
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Yea, wakeplate down = bow down while wakeplate up = bow up. So, plate down till on plane then adjust.
Ok sorry! Might have had it backwards, was trying to remember where my gauge was at but I thought it was up by default and I usually start there and then go the other way once I'm up to speed. Anyways yeah play around with it if you haven't yet, might make a difference.
I have the gravity 3 set up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
I'm not 100% sure on the prop. I bought the boat used. It says OJ 511 on it but I couldn't find any details on it. I was looking at the ACME 1617. But what's the big difference between that and the 1433?
Thanks for the help
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I think I'll have to go with the ACME 1617. But yes let me know how it works out for you. I agree that wake plate gage always confuses me. Sometimes I feel like it's saying the wrong way.Quote:
Originally Posted by BT_48170
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The gravity 3 just means 3 bags. Doesn't tell me whether they are reversible, but it a good chance if you have a 2011. Do you have the sprinkler valves above your v-drive that has a single aerator pump connected to that? Then you would also have 3 separate emptying aerator pumps if you have the older aerator setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawyerdell
Otherwise you will have 3 reversible pumps all mounted together on the transom.
As for the prop I couldn't find details on an OJ 511. The differences between the 1433 and the 1617 I indicated before in the parenthesies. The 1617 is a 1.5" lower pitch prop, so you lose some top in but it will pull like a tractor.
Lower the pitch = more pulling power. Like the lower gears in your car or truck.
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Well I do more surfing than anything else. So I'm think the 1617. Same here when I got online I couldn't find anything on a OJ 511. Maybe I'm reading the numbers wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
As for the pumps I was reading up on the reversible and when I empty them it doesn't come out from above the water. If I remember correctly. There are only 3 pumps behind the rear bag on the port side.
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Then you have the reversible
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So then is there any way to speed them up?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
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No. That's as fast as you can make them.
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Only other option is to add another quick disconnect to the top of each bag and run a separate tsunami pump at the same time
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I recently upgraded to 1617 and over all am satisfied with it's performance. Surf speed isn't an issue with 2 1100s, stock ski locker, and 550 ibs along with 400# lead in the front. Wakeboard speed is another story, still takes awhile to get on plane but it's not too much off any issue because I rarely fill the rear bags 100% (near the point of dimensioning returns in wake size). I don't go above 32 for the occasional slalom set so I don't worry about losing some top end speed.
I put the 1617 on the boat on Saturday, did not notice a huge difference from the 537. Just going off a couple surf sessions though so I will let you know if after more use I notice anything additionally. I'm assuming it is better for the engine though if all we're doing is wakesurfing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BT_48170
DANG IT! I was just about to hit the check out button when I read this.
My 2015 LSV has the Raptor 400 and stock ballast (650 rear, 500 front) it also has the 537 prop. When loaded with full bags and 5 people, it will barely plane let alone pull a wakeboarder. When surfing I am turning 4-4500 rpm at 12-12.5mph. I need a solution.
That's surprising as the 537 is. 13.5 x 16" that's a huge drop in pitch to the 1617. I can't imagine the difference is minimal.
Here's the sizes available off the ACME website
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8236072d60.png
Next jump down in pitch from the 1617 is the 2571 with has a 12" pitch. That would surely increase your holeshot, but I imagine top speed will take a big hit.
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Well I jut ordered the 1617 so we will see how that goes.
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What does CUP do?
It helps the prop more bite at low speed, and less slip, so you get a better hole shot.
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Not to create an argument but I was told differently. Wakemakers explained to me (and other research supports this) that cup helps the top end and gives you higher speed, not hole shot or low end speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
I'm interested as to your and others opinions.
You may be right about top end. But I was also right about reducing slip.
http://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-sc...t-4-blade-cup/
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I was just going off a weekend of surfing so I'm still assessing the prop. I think there is still an argument for the 1617 if it is better on the engine. 4000 rpm seems high but I don't have any experience with the raptor engine, maybe someone could comment on that. I'm more like 3000 rpm when surfing fully loaded.
From the article linked above: "In fact, cupping reduces full-throttle engine speed 150-300 RPM below the same pitch prop with no cup."Quote:
Originally Posted by moombahighrider
This is the key point. Same prop with more cup (if done right) will be faster or run lower RPM at top speed. If you compare the ACME 537 and 1161 as I have you can see a slight difference in top end speed at WOT of about 1.5 MPH. But there is virtually no difference in hole shot.
Well that is what I am thinking (and Feeling in my wallet.) My neighbor has an 06, Supreme SV230 and runs 3000lbs+ 5 drunk girls in his boat and only turns about 3300 rpm when he surfs. In Contrast, I am running 1100lbs total and no cute drunk girls and spin between 4-4500rpm. I either need a new prop or drunk girls. - I'll talk with the wife and see what she says.Quote:
Originally Posted by BT_48170
Not to hijack or change the subject, but I keep reading about 1100lb rear bags in the LSV. When I go to Wakemakers, they only show the 910lb upgrade for my boat???? Where does one get the 1100lbs ones and are they plug and play?
I think these are the bags I bought which were plug and play except I had to buy new fittings for the bags because the ones in my stock bags were glued in. depending on your vent line hose length you might have to extend them a bit, I probably should have but just rolled with it.
https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-jumbo-surf-sac.html
4000 rpm still seems high prop aside, I've ran 3 different props now on my boat and haven't seen anything like that, the 3 were still in the 3000-3500 rpm at surf speed loaded.
If you want hole shot/surfing/heavily weighted; it's all about torque and taking full advantage of the reduction gears. You'll get more bang for buck increasing the diameter than you will messing with the pitch and cup. Get the largest diameter prop that will fit your boat and test. From there a prop shop can re-pitch and cup the prop to your liking. I went from the stock OJ (growler) to an 1847 and now to a 2315 (15x12) on my 08 LSV. Hull clearance is 1.5". There's no reason to keep swapping props unless your changing diameter. A prop shop can re-pitch up to 2". By the way; the acme 1617 isn't really a "13.75 pitch". It's a 14" pitch prop. My local prop shop took a brand new acme 1617 out of the box set it on the 14 pitch block and it fit perfectly!! Think about the SAN G23, it has 17x17 prop! Of course it's has 2-1 gear ratio and 1.25" shaft. The more weight: the more diameter = more thrust and more efficient engine operation. Tug boat
Curious abt this. Stock is 14" dia and you're using a 15" dia. I know you need to raise the trailer bunks at least 1/2" but I thought you'd have hull clearance issues (read abt gel-coat burn). No issues? Anyone else running a 15" prop w this LSV hull? THX!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepers
1.5" hull clearance is plenty, no gel coat burn. I did not need to raise the trailer, still have 1/2" of clearance. You shouldn't be spinning the prop on the trailer anyways. Use the winch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leebo
In fact the guy at acme said I'd be fine with a 15.5" (2921) but I was concerned of excessive noise/vibration. My local prop shop said they'll let me know if they get one in so I can try it.
Attachment 25762
These may help.
My boat came with the OJ 14.25x14 (Growler). So a 15" diameter prop is only decreasing the prop/hull clearance by 3/8 of an inch. I would have raised my rear bunks a 1/2" to clear prop guard horizontal support better as a precaution; but I only unload and load my boat once per season. I'd just be careful to make sure the boat is off the trailer or floating before starting the engine. If I recall, a couple years ago there was debate about the 08 LSV trailer clearance with the acme 1235 (14.5x14). It seemed like 50% of folks had clearance issues and 50% didn't. This is why Acme created the 1847 and 1433 props. When I talked to the guys at Boatmate; they said they just use ABS blocks as spacers. Should be a relatively easy project if you have trailer clearance issues; And worth the effort. Plus you'll save a ton of money working your local prop shop to fine tune (re pitch or cup) your prop vs wakemakers talking out of $500+ for a new prop every season. This will be my first season with the 2315 (15x12). So far so good. What I noticed immediately, was the 2315 really pushes and keeps the bow down. I don't have an IBS and had to rely on the center ballast and human weight in the bow. With the 2315 and a larger center locker bag I don't think I need an IBS at all. But the weather hasn't afforded me much time on the water. I'll report back as the summer rolls on and if I get a chance to try the 15.5!
I upgraded the center bag to the fh 580# 11005. About 1.5" - 2" to wide for the locker, but fills better than the stock.
As a side note; I tried the acme 1617 last season and it sucked. I mean really really sucked! Couldn't even get on plain. After about 3 hours of screwing with weight distribution, I threw the 1847 back on and was rocking a long and tall wake.
Sorry for the lengthy message.
Thx for the lengthy!
Per the internet (which is always right), clearance to the hull shud be 10% of prop dia but there are guys running less than 1". I've got 2.25" of clearance w/ my 1433 but not a lot vs. the trailer (guessing the shaft angle variations mean you shud always measure). So, plenty of room for a 15" prop, just need to raise the bunks on the trailer.
Go for it! I'm so damn impressed with how my boat handles with the 2315! It took me awhile to recalibrate the surf wake. But it's all dialed in now. Fully loaded ballast; about 2,700 lbs plus 6 adults and I'm on plane immediately. WOT empty with just me = 5200 rpms (perfect), fully loaded = 4800 rpms. Surfing rpm 3000. The downside is I top out at 36-38mph. However, I live on a small lake and rarely run wot for any period of time. Adding additional cup would probably give me a couple extra mph, but my rpms are perfect (per Indmar).
The 2315 is a little louder than the 1847 but does not growl and vibrate like the OJ.
I love it!