2005 moomba will not run

I'm having issues with my moomba. It has a 5.7 mpi assault in it. It will start then run for a few seconds then die....a few times it has ran for 10 to 15 minutes then shift in gear and give it throttle and it dies. I have drained fuel tank and changed fuel filter with no regard. Also have checked tps, map sensor, and iac which all check good. Also changed distributor which was corroded and plugs which were black. There is also suit in the throttle body and oil in the channel on the passenger side opposite of iac chamber of the throttle body. I am at a loss of what else to check and cannot afford to pay a mechanic right now so I'm hoping someone can plllllease point me in the right direction on here. Oh I also check fuel pressure it is about 55lbs when key is on and bounces around 55 and 57lbs when running. Somebody help a broke man out

oil pressure safety switch? low pressure fuel pump? I had similar issues with my 05 and once I replace the fuel pump it all went away. did all the things you mentioned with varying results. fuel pumps don't just stop working they have to be a PITA first. even if you test it it could work and then ten minutes later not.

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Originally Posted by casmith71

oil pressure safety switch? low pressure fuel pump? I had similar issues with my 05 and once I replace the fuel pump it all went away. did all the things you mentioned with varying results. fuel pumps don't just stop working they have to be a PITA first. even if you test it it could work and then ten minutes later not.

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I have changed the oil pressure safety switch and it didn't help either. Also fuel pressure never drops below 55 and mine is high pressure for injection.....but thank you for a suggestion

Does it throw a check engine light/code?

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Originally Posted by blackyj

I'm having issues with my moomba. It has a 5.7 mpi assault in it. It will start then run for a few seconds then die....a few times it has ran for 10 to 15 minutes then shift in gear and give it throttle and it dies. I have drained fuel tank and changed fuel filter with no regard. Also have checked tps, map sensor, and iac which all check good. Also changed distributor which was corroded and plugs which were black. There is also suit in the throttle body and oil in the channel on the passenger side opposite of iac chamber of the throttle body. I am at a loss of what else to check and cannot afford to pay a mechanic right now so I'm hoping someone can plllllease point me in the right direction on here. Oh I also check fuel pressure it is about 55lbs when key is on and bounces around 55 and 57lbs when running. Somebody help a broke man out

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This concerns me deeply, Why where the plugs black? That means they are fouling out, oil and or too much fuel will do this.
Also Oil in the Intake is never good, that means you are burning oil through your intake and gumming everything up.

I am going to assume you replaced the Cap and Rotor on the Distributor.
You replaced the Plugs?
You have Good fresh fuel?

Those Being YES! Start with buying a Can of Carb cleaner, when the engine is at idle, start spraying it in the intake, not so much you choke and kill the engine, just meter it in as the engine bogs down stop, then add a little more. If you can idle the engine up to 1500 during this great.

It will clean a lot of that crap out of the intake and such. You will need to let eveything cool down, pull and check the plugs, they should be a little black but not bad.

Now you you will need to find out why you have Oil in the intake. I am not exactly familiar with your engine but does it have PVC <positive crankcase hose> going to the intake and connecting someplace? If so it might be full of oil and this is the source of the oil to the intake, replace the PVC Valve, very cheap.

Doing these things will help get her cleaned up and hope she starts running.

As far as a check engine code...I can't find a check engine light

Mmandley I figured the pcv valve might be the source of oil in the throttle body but would this keep my engine from running? I did replace rotor button distributor and plugs along with siphoning old fuel out and putting fresh 93 October non ethonol which is the only fuel I use. The problem started last summer ...it would bog down and die ever so often ....but most of the time ran fine....took it out once this summer with no problems and then the next time it wouldn't start and have been down ever since

The oil its self won't but if your intake has seen so Much that its black then you might have clogging.

I don't think you have very many Vacuum lines but check the hoses, make sure they are all good, the issue is trying to find out if your in a LEAN fuel condition.

Also I can't recall but you should have a Fuel pressure regulator someplace on that fuel line. You need to see if you can get the engine to run long enough to read the regulated fuel pressure.

I know you have 55 at start up, but after you start is when the Regulator now has to do its job it might not be allowing enough pressure to continue to run the engine.

On my 2008 Outback the check engine light is to the right of the key.

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Originally Posted by mmandley

The oil its self won't but if your intake has seen so Much that its black then you might have clogging.

I don't think you have very many Vacuum lines but check the hoses, make sure they are all good, the issue is trying to find out if your in a LEAN fuel condition.

Also I can't recall but you should have a Fuel pressure regulator someplace on that fuel line. You need to see if you can get the engine to run long enough to read the regulated fuel pressure.

I know you have 55 at start up, but after you start is when the Regulator now has to do its job it might not be allowing enough pressure to continue to run the engine.

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I have checked the two vaccuum hoses and they are good. Also the intake looks clean when i open the throttle plate, its just the top of the throttle plate that had the black suit on it. The shrader valve on the driver side fuel rail is where i hooked it to and i did get it to run for about fifteen minutes (still dont know how) but as soon as i got it up to about 20mph it died and wouldnt run but for about 5 seconds at a time before dying. I had the fuel pressure gauge hooked up at this time and this is when it stayed between 58lbs and 60lbs and never dropped under 55lbs even after stalling. Before someone mentions it I have also checked the main ground on the engine block and the ground close to the distributor which are both good.

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Originally Posted by Fastest1

On my 2008 Outback the check engine light is to the right of the key.

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i have checked everywhere for one and cant find it. all that is beside my key a push in breaker

I wouldn't have thought you would have a breaker on the dash panel. Exposed to the environment or direct water with no cover?

Not that I am familiar with these boats (yet).

well its got a rubber cover over it

That sounds odd but at least it's protected.

05's don't have check engine lights that I know of. Started in 06

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Originally Posted by blackyj

I have checked the two vaccuum hoses and they are good. Also the intake looks clean when i open the throttle plate, its just the top of the throttle plate that had the black suit on it. The shrader valve on the driver side fuel rail is where i hooked it to and i did get it to run for about fifteen minutes (still dont know how) but as soon as i got it up to about 20mph it died and wouldnt run but for about 5 seconds at a time before dying. I had the fuel pressure gauge hooked up at this time and this is when it stayed between 58lbs and 60lbs and never dropped under 55lbs even after stalling. Before someone mentions it I have also checked the main ground on the engine block and the ground close to the distributor which are both good.

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This really sounds like an Ignition Control Module problem. I really don't know off hand if the engine has one of these. I know on older small blocks this was an issue when the module gets hot its internally shorts and kills the engine. Then it cools off a bit and works again. I chased this issue on my Vette. It looks like this and they are in the distributor or mounted outside. When mounted outside it has a 4 wire plug if i recall, and will be mounted to some kind of heat sink. I had a 92 Z28 with one in the distributor and the contacts where corroded so it would run great when the car sat a while, then once it got hot and began to cool off say at the gas station it would crank with no start.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2314390...lpid=82&chn=ps

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Originally Posted by mmandley

This really sounds like an Ignition Control Module problem. I really don't know off hand if the engine has one of these. I know on older small blocks this was an issue when the module gets hot its internally shorts and kills the engine. Then it cools off a bit and works again. I chased this issue on my Vette. It looks like this and they are in the distributor or mounted outside. When mounted outside it has a 4 wire plug if i recall, and will be mounted to some kind of heat sink. I had a 92 Z28 with one in the distributor and the contacts where corroded so it would run great when the car sat a while, then once it got hot and began to cool off say at the gas station it would crank with no start.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2314390...lpid=82&chn=ps

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This is what I have about decided the problem is. I take it tomorrow to get it hooked to diacom.....Will this problem show up on it or am I wasting 60 bucks?

X2 for Mike. I've replaced the electronic ignition on my 98 twice and in both cases the engine was very unpredictable but it continued to run

Bypass the oil pressure switch, not the oil pressure gauge sensor.

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Originally Posted by parrothd

Bypass the oil pressure switch, not the oil pressure gauge sensor.

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I put a new switch in nd it didn't help

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Originally Posted by mmandley

This really sounds like an Ignition Control Module problem. I really don't know off hand if the engine has one of these. I know on older small blocks this was an issue when the module gets hot its internally shorts and kills the engine. Then it cools off a bit and works again. I chased this issue on my Vette. It looks like this and they are in the distributor or mounted outside. When mounted outside it has a 4 wire plug if i recall, and will be mounted to some kind of heat sink. I had a 92 Z28 with one in the distributor and the contacts where corroded so it would run great when the car sat a while, then once it got hot and began to cool off say at the gas station it would crank with no start.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2314390...lpid=82&chn=ps

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This is what I had about decided......taking tomorrow to get a diacom hooked to it so we will see if that can tell me anything

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Originally Posted by jmb

05's don't have check engine lights that I know of. Started in 06

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Is there an easy way to add one?

Does anyone know what the fuel pressure at the rail should be? Friend of mine said he thought 30lbs. So in this case I'm thinking fuel pressure regulator since I'm getting 60lbs at the shrader valve which according to my engine book should be what the fuel pump sends?

Rail pressure at start up is 50-60 but the regulator doesn't do anything until the engine starts.

Fuel pump charges the line, then shuts off.
Once Started Fuel pump kicks on, and then Regulator Regulates.

If you charge the fuel line and then let the fuel out of the line with the valve, the pressure does not return...Until you cycle the key on and off again

If you have the engine running and press the valve the fuel pressure does not drop, because the regulator allows more fuel through it.

I wouldn't want a check engine light. That whole set up is just another pain in my book

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Originally Posted by mmandley

Rail pressure at start up is 50-60 but the regulator doesn't do anything until the engine starts.

Fuel pump charges the line, then shuts off.
Once Started Fuel pump kicks on, and then Regulator Regulates.

If you charge the fuel line and then let the fuel out of the line with the valve, the pressure does not return...Until you cycle the key on and off again

If you have the engine running and press the valve the fuel pressure does not drop, because the regulator allows more fuel through it.

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So the pressure should drop to thirty when engine starts?...if the regulator is bad then would to much pressure to the injectors cause the motor to shut down?