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I am looking for a little more advice. I have a Kicker 250.2 amp and a km10 sub that I was going to put in the 2010 boat but because I have the new 2011 comming with the 700.5 amp, I not sure what to do. Has anyone installed 2 10" subs? Is it recommanded or not?
From what I can tell the boat is comming with:
4 cabin Kicker speakers
2 bow Kicker speakers
KM10 Sub
Kicker 700.5 amp
On order:
4 Exile SXT65's
1K Harpoon Amp
In the basement collecting dust.
KM10 Kicker Sub
Kicker 250.2 amp
Lat year I did a pair of Kicker KM10's driven by a zxm700.5 in a 1.8 sealed enclosure in a 2009 Bu VLX. It was very impressive. Two 4 ohm KM10 will get you 420W rms form the zxm700.5. Two 10's will move quite a bit of air.
^^^what he said^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Phil
Kicker
Hey MLA do you have any pics? Do the sub's have to be in an enclosure or can I leave the factory km10 in the bulkhead at helm and mount the other above it on a right angle or 45 degrees to the factory install so that it is facing down?
I have 2 10" L7's powered off a 700.5 (at least until I put the 1000.1 in) and they sound great. Mine are dual 2 ohm, wired series parallel to show the amp 2 ohms.
I've been running 2 10's for a while. Doubles your sound output! You'll need to crack open your seat to make it really work. Check my profile pics for more ideas.
I get a lot of complents and astonished looks when I crank it up. PM me with any questions you have about set-up. I've spent a lot of time figuring out the best configurations for that set-up.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...hril/007-2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Sea N' Things
I have not played around with this sub yet infinite-baffle, but based on what I have heard in the factory setups, I would strongly recommend doing an enclosure for it. I would also try to keep them as close as possible to the same plane.
Newty, have you considered a custom vent for the compartment in the walkthrough for that?Quote:
Originally Posted by newty
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razzman
Yea, Ive had a lot of ideas but they are either expensive, perminent, or obtrusive.
Any ideas Razz?
- Adding heater vents to the walk-thru as ports (to match the existing ones.
- Adding 2 more cup holders to the dash with the bottoms cut out.
- Notching about a 3" gap along the bottom of the observer seat back. Kind of an Arc along the bottom.
- I've tried to figure a way to make a vent in the seat base but not sure how I would make that happen.
http://www.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart...cat=293&page=1
Ever though if adding one of these in that gelcoat area kind of where the capacity sticker is. Is this sort of what you are looking for?
You could also go a little more fancy with a vent like this
http://www.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/home.php?cat=253
There are always problems with installing subs in the port locker. Obviously the thick and dense seat plus the solid surrounding structure attenuates alot of the bass output. Also the large volume of the compartment plus the adjoining gunnel cavities make for an expansive and very acoustically compliant displacement. As a result alot of energy is stored and released. Think of a giant acoustic capacitor that has its own phasing impact. As a result the reflex radiation from the compartment is not going to be in phase with the direct radiation from the woofer as both reach the vent. And there is not alot of impetus for the bass radiation to flow from a huge and compliant compartment through a small and resistive vent. The phasing issue makes it really difficult to have bass that is more than indiscriminant in its tonal construction. Its really hard to have a coherent and seamless midbass transition with the in-boat coaxials. I view this as more of an issue than the attenuation affect.
So the best way to help the situation is to use a large vent that has an opening that approaches or is equal to the collective surface area of the woofers...more in the case of bass-reflex. Or, just open the observers seat.
When and if the particular boat gives you the option of a woofer/enclosure under the driver's helm console, I always prefer this even if I have to downsize the woofer(s). In my opinion the sound quality benefits far exceed the loss in 'rumble'.
Do we install subs in the port locker? All the time. Nautiques and several other boats do not have a better alternative.
If you are going to do it then a very large vent in the pass-through wall will do wonders. You can trim the vent in a vinyl-clad bolster that ties in with the boat well.
David
Earmark Marine
Stupid question, why install subs in a closure if air volume is a good thing?
All subwoofers must have an enclosure of some type because they require front to rear acoustic isolation.
At any point the front excursion and pressure is the polar opposite of the rear, as in 'push' or pull', 'compress' or 'rarify'. If allowed to meet the front and rear radiation cancels. The condition would also nullify any level of acoustical damping or control.
David
Earmark Marine
Ian how does the amp do for power? I have on 10" L5 dual 2ohm and I was thinking of adding a second. You must have the sub vc wired in series then the two subs wired in parallel?Quote:
Originally Posted by ian ashton
I'm thinking of doing something on the order of this http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showt...highlight=bass
But on a smaller scale more like this but w/o the speaker and more of an oval.
Even though we did the second one, I like the first approach and size of Grant's vent for a subwoofer application. You really need all the surface area that you can manage.
David
Earmark Marine
Thanks David nice job btw. Now if I can just remember where I put my balls so I can cut a giant hole in the walk-thru.:p
Just yank real hard! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by newty
I don't think you can pull that one off on that scale. You'll have to take into account the vertical aluminum deck stiffener rails inside each wall and they won't let you make a cutout like that. Now you could get creative and do a vertical type between the rail and interior sub wall or somethng similar. I would be real hesitant to remove rails or sub walls lest it weaken the structure and allow the window to spread.
Razzman,
I agree with you. If you use a stainless steel or other type of mesh or screen to visually conceal the remaining vertical structural members you might be able to satisfy both objectives. Nothing is worth compromising the structural integrity of the boat. A split but sturdy aluminum bolt-thru picture frame around the interior can also fully restore any panel strength.
David
Earmark Marine
That is some serious stones of you cut the side of the walk-threw like that. Thats a no turning back point and you better really make sure you done ever plan to move the subs again.Quote:
Originally Posted by newty
It seems to do fine, the subs sound great. You are correct with how I have them wired.Quote:
Originally Posted by New Guy