I have all the bolts and screws out, does anybody know of a good way to get that plate removed from the back of the boat? I tried a heat gun to heat up the epoxy and a hammer and that didn’t make it budge. Any ideas?
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I have all the bolts and screws out, does anybody know of a good way to get that plate removed from the back of the boat? I tried a heat gun to heat up the epoxy and a hammer and that didn’t make it budge. Any ideas?
What plate are you referring to? The trim plate?Quote:
Originally Posted by SorryCharlie
Plate? Like the wake plate hinge?Quote:
Originally Posted by SorryCharlie
Debond spray, scoring the edges, the longer and more spray used the easier it comes off, use some small wood shims to help pry it off slowly after using the debond.
https://marineformula.com/collections/marine-formula
Sorry, the surf plate, I think it’s auto flow? The big block of metal on the transom port and starboard. I’m installing Evolution tabs and want remove those plates.
Stuffs pricey but looks like it’ll make the job easier, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
i would assume they are glued on with 3M 5200....i would get the debond for sure!
debond and soak it for a few days and wood shims otherwise you'll scratch/break the gel coat getting them off.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcredible
Tap the shims in a little each time you use the debond, gotta go really really slow.
I take it you have manual flow tabs now? Or you jist upgrading the autoflow tabs?
Couldn't you jist reuse the hinges if you had autoflow already?
Yes, it has the manual tabs and I want the plates next to the center plate like they make them now. I also want control in the cockpit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
I'm looking to do the same upgrade this winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by SorryCharlie
Any reason you went with Evolution over other? Price?
Following.. Looking to do same upgrade
Well, I went with Evolution because of price but also because Rob did an excellent job answering all my questions and I felt comfortable with him. He has YouTube videos on tab install and electrical and he’s a text away if you run into an issue. He had a 10% off code for laborday, so $2750 shipped. The tabs themselves are high quality welds and he includes almost everything you need in the kit.
He’s modified the tabs from his original design, that shows me he worked on getting the tab better. Shipping was quick after a holiday weekend but I’m stuck on the blocks of metal on the back. I would prefer to have those out of the way before install. I’ll try to post a few pictures tomorrow and update my trials. I’ve been down with the flu and I’m waiting on the spray for the glue , which should be here tomorrow. And that’s another kudos to Parrot and Marine formula for the quick shipping. 3 days from order , these days, pretty impressive. Hope it makes quick work of that glue because those suckers are most certainly ATTACHED!
I got the blocks off with the marine debond suggested by Parrot (many thanks) , it took about 10 minutes per side. I sprayed the debond, let it soak, and then used a spatulas on the top/outside of each block the slightly wedge the spatulas in, then I used a flat head screw driver on top of that and lightly hammered and it came free.
Attachment 30056
This is what your left with, some kind of white pad that I was unable to remove. I tried heat gun, debond, it does not want to come off.
Attachment 30057
So being the dummy that I am, and being forgetful, I drilled the holes for the actuator feet and tried feeding the wire through. That’s when I realized that the hole I drilled is 4” below the floor in the bag compartment.
Attachment 30058
Now I’m at a stopping point until I figure out what I’m going to do? Any suggestions are fine with me?
I would mock everything up and mark your mounts before drilling anymore holes.
The mistake can be glassed over when you fix the rest of the holes. A good glass guy can get the white pad off also.
The holes are in a great place for the tab, I’m wondering what is below the floor where the bags lay? I’m wondering if I can drill a hole a fish the wire up? It’ll be hidden behind the carpeted panel where the bag pumps are, just not sure what’s in that cavity, if anything?
Redrilled holes and below is the result.
Attachment 30059
Attachment 30060
Since I had to change the location of the actuator feet, I asked Rob what angle the tabs should be at when deployed? He said that 10-15 degrees is plenty, I am at 13 degrees at the current location. He said more important is making sure that the tabs can retract up.
Hopefully I’ll get the electrical in this week, that should be pretty strait forward.
As an aside, the holes from the removed block were weeping water, I guess water sits in those cavities below the floor all the time? And is nothing to worry about?
Those look good
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Those look good. For the price that might be a better option then other systems I have look at.Quote:
Originally Posted by SorryCharlie
Does this system have a "Launch" mode? (Deploys both tabs to help get on plane)
As for the water, There shouldn't be much in there if you pull the drain each time. I know I have found water in spots of my boat because I didn't let it air out long enough, but I also didn't want the barn cats sleeping in my boat, so the cover went on anyway. Are you going to glass over the holes yourself, or have that done somewhere?
I'd remove the 5200 square area and then get some looking stainless round head bolts and use 5200 to seal them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
Rob says you just have to deploy both tabs for “launch” mode. Seems pretty easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
The water is not in the bilge, it’s in the sub floor under the bag compartment, I’m not sure if there is a path from the bilge though? The bilge around the engine compartment looks sealed up to me. The bilge in the engine compartment is dry.
That stuff is a PIA to try and remove. I don’t think it’s 5200, the spray doesn’t work on it. It’s some kind of thick padding that’s glued tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
What are you getting for a retracted angle? Did you move the actuator just because of the wire location? You can use a remote gland for the wire if you need it in a different location.
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I would think there would be a path somewhere from the ballast compartment to the bilge pump. There has to be. Otherwise a leaking bag could really cause some bad problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by SorryCharlie
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A leaking bag dumps into the engine bilge, ask me how I know 😂Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
I have the holes filled, I used the West Epoxy kit and the wires are ready to hook up. Getting that 502 off is a nightmare, it helped some getting an oscillating multi tool. That removed a fairly thick layer of 502. The rear is not perfect yet, I still have some more work to do there but with temp in the mid 80s, I have to test it out.
2 of the holes seeped all week, they are below the bag floor and there is no access to that area. I’m guessing there is somewhere for the water to go. If the bag leaks, it goes into the engine bilge but I’m talking about below the black floor that the bags sit on. Wish I knew if there is an outlet for water there.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
Watched several install videos online of surf plate systems on Malibu boots and the lowest hinge holes all weeped also. Looks like it's not just Moomba.
Were you able to get the Evolution Tabs installed and try them out?Quote:
Originally Posted by SorryCharlie
if you pull it back there is a chance of damage.
When surfing, does the one tab fully re-track into a position to not interfere with the wave?
I have seen tab systems where the tab, in the fully up position, interfere with the wave causing the lip to get 'washy' or you have something that looks like a 'line' going into the wave from the transom to the back of the wave.
From my research, the evolution tabs are completely manually operated buttons. There is no CPU/programming to have them retract or launch based on GPS or switching sides. That is the posh part of the other systems and since you are paying 1/2 of the cost I would not expect it either. GSA and similar systems also have memory where the tabs are deployed and return to that position each time when activated, so repeatability is there.
Not downing either system, everyone has their price points and myself does not see spending $5k for GSA at the moment either, but Wakeland system is the same price as evolution and has similar function to GSA. Wakeland is the OEM for Skier's so the plate design is factory Autosurf 2.0 I just wish the Wakeland system would integrate into the factory screen since everything is already in the harness and the programming is already in the screen. Just add the sensors, GPS antenna, plates and relay board. Make it all plug and play since 2015+ boats had Autosurf as an option.
On my 2007 Supra with the Wakeland system, the 'auto-launched' worked pretty good. It auto-deployed back to the up position at ?15mph), so it was good for launching when wakeboarding and running heavy ballast.
My only caution was it was slow when deploying back up. So if you had the tabs in the full down position, it felt like the bow was ready to dig into to water b/c there was so much force driving the bow down. It was more a learning on what tab setting to use (1 to 5) and what worked best.
Wonder why it was slow? Should be the same Lenco actuators that are used OEM.
Since you had the Wakeland system, how did it do on your older Supra compared to listing and suck gate? My Mojo has the manual tabs and my surf wave is not bad but I like the idea of running level and not have to keep moving lead each time (1/2 reg, 1/2 goofy in my family). Also, I only have 3 pumps and being able to run "even" would be nice.
Pretty sure I can do the install myself, just curious what brackets Wakeland would supply for my Mojo (hopefully factory for the model) so they would be above the false floor in the lockers.
the same problem accrue when we use buoys with height speed
The tabs worked, but I needed a lot of weight. The hulls around 2007 had a notch in them at the bottom, thus why some of the tab makers have to make brackets for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
In comparison, my 22 (with 3-3.5K of ballast) had a great wave with the single suck gate. Was the wave $3k better with the tabs - no.
It was not a slap-on and run it job. It took some time dialing in and at times was a little frustrating b/c I would have different crew sizes and that affected how clean I could get the wave. The suck gate is just slap on and run every time.
Trying to do the same manual surf flow plate removal on my 2014 Mondo. Have been working the debond with multiple coats over a few hours, all bolts are out. How did this go for others? Just time needed or other tricks?
Okay, I have everything installed and was able to get on the lake this past Saturday. I watched this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKiSpHn1hug&t=739s pitch and roll video and got an awesome wave using his direction. I have 1100lbs in each rear locker, I also put 150 lb lead under front seat, 150lb port rear and 200lb starboard rear. 800lb bag directly center rear. Just the wife and I in the boat, I’m 210 and she’s 120. I moved the lead weights as he directed in the video and boom. The advantage of being fairly level, no list, and a 8-10 degree pitch is that I can switch wake sides in 2 seconds with no loss in wake height.
I’m pretty happy with evolution tabs now that I have the wake issue solved, can’t wait to learn how to surf over to the other side of the wake. Obviously I wasn’t able to do that with the surf gates.