AutoWake questions

Well....

The reason you don't currently have ballast levels on the screen is because of screen size and being able to display everything. When we first launched AutoWake, we thought it was most important to display pitch and roll and NOT have the user focus as much on ballast levels. You have to keep in mind that using AutoWake is a COMPLETE departure from what the industry has been doing for a long time and what all the other competitors are still doing. We were afraid if we mixed in rider profiles and ballast % levels on the screen at the same time then people would NOT understand what AutoWake is trying to accomplish. What we have learned is people STILL don't understand AutoWake and that is why I am trying to post so much on here to clear the confusion.

As everyone starts to better understand AutoWake, then I would imagine you will see versions of software that display AutoWake AND ballast levels. Supra still shows ballast levels because we have the room and I agree it is nice being able to see both ONCE you learn how seeing one can help with the other.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stazi

Agreed. I think this should be in a new software patch. Why hide the ballast levels?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by goose

Well....

The reason you don't currently have ballast levels on the screen is because of screen size and being able to display everything. When we first launched AutoWake, we thought it was most important to display pitch and roll and NOT have the user focus as much on ballast levels. You have to keep in mind that using AutoWake is a COMPLETE departure from what the industry has been doing for a long time and what all the other competitors are still doing. We were afraid if we mixed in rider profiles and ballast % levels on the screen at the same time then people would NOT understand what AutoWake is trying to accomplish. What we have learned is people STILL don't understand AutoWake and that is why I am trying to post so much on here to clear the confusion.

As everyone starts to better understand AutoWake, then I would imagine you will see versions of software that display AutoWake AND ballast levels. Supra still shows ballast levels because we have the room and I agree it is nice being able to see both ONCE you learn how seeing one can help with the other.

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Matt
Thank you for the details in this thread. I’m a recent first time Moomba buyer, and we are loving our Craz. In fact, we are logging many more hours on it because it is so much fun. Please take the following as constructive feedback.

Before I bought my boat, I came to this thread to get a better understanding of the technology. It is quite frankly a differentiation for you guys, and a pretty slick one at that. Autowake was definitely a factor when we bought the bought.

That said, you should know that it felt “odd” to me, as a buyer, that I had to come read through hundreds of posts to better perspective of the technology before I bought the boat. I find it even more odd that I have to still do that after spending ~$80K. While that may be chump change to some, it’s a bloody expensive boat and one of the best features has quite frankly terrible documentation (I.e. a massive forum thread where I would bet a very small percentage of owners have actually read through it all).

I, as I’m sure many others, appreciate your willingness to interact with the community, but don’t you think you would solve a lot of the issues of people not understanding your tech if you provided proper/detailed but concise details or documentation through a manual, a PDF (by year or software version), or better yet, a wiki for ecosystem collaboration?

To not show ballast levels, which we all know is just timed based value but extremely useful values for an expensive wakeboarding/surfing boat until or “ONCE” we (the community) “learn” is counter intuitive and disappointing to say the least. It’s ridiculous that we have to dig through hundreds of thread posts to a) understand the tech or to b) see the quick workarounds such as to see ballast levels all while surfing. I understand the space argument considering the size of the screen, but if you actually wanted to provide it, 3 small values do not need fancy graphics or a ton of space.

If you want us (the community) to understand something as a prerequisite for something this basic, then please provide a proper means for us to collectively learn and understand. I don’t agree with your stance, but then again, I’m not in your shoes.

Lastly, don’t take this as negative feedback or as a complaint. It’s awesome that you are in the forums responding to questions, it’s an awesome community and you guys make a fantastic boat.

Regards
Riaan



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bairum

Matt
Thank you for the details in this thread. I’m a recent first time Moomba buyer, and we are loving our Craz. In fact, we are logging many more hours on it because it is so much fun. Please take the following as constructive feedback.

Before I bought my boat, I came to this thread to get a better understanding of the technology. It is quite frankly a differentiation for you guys, and a pretty slick one at that. Autowake was definitely a factor when we bought the bought.

That said, you should know that it felt “odd” to me, as a buyer, that I had to come read through hundreds of posts to better perspective of the technology before I bought the boat. I find it even more odd that I have to still do that after spending ~$80K. While that may be chump change to some, it’s a bloody expensive boat and one of the best features has quite frankly terrible documentation (I.e. a massive forum thread where I would bet a very small percentage of owners have actually read through it all).

I, as I’m sure many others, appreciate your willingness to interact with the community, but don’t you think you would solve a lot of the issues of people not understanding your tech if you provided proper/detailed but concise details or documentation through a manual, a PDF (by year or software version), or better yet, a wiki for ecosystem collaboration?

To not show ballast levels, which we all know is just timed based value but extremely useful values for an expensive wakeboarding/surfing boat until or “ONCE” we (the community) “learn” is counter intuitive and disappointing to say the least. It’s ridiculous that we have to dig through hundreds of thread posts to a) understand the tech or to b) see the quick workarounds such as to see ballast levels all while surfing. I understand the space argument considering the size of the screen, but if you actually wanted to provide it, 3 small values do not need fancy graphics or a ton of space.

If you want us (the community) to understand something as a prerequisite for something this basic, then please provide a proper means for us to collectively learn and understand. I don’t agree with your stance, but then again, I’m not in your shoes.

Lastly, don’t take this as negative feedback or as a complaint. It’s awesome that you are in the forums responding to questions, it’s an awesome community and you guys make a fantastic boat.

Regards
Riaan



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[emoji106]


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bairum

Matt
Thank you for the details in this thread. I’m a recent first time Moomba buyer, and we are loving our Craz. In fact, we are logging many more hours on it because it is so much fun. Please take the following as constructive feedback.

Before I bought my boat, I came to this thread to get a better understanding of the technology. It is quite frankly a differentiation for you guys, and a pretty slick one at that. Autowake was definitely a factor when we bought the bought.

That said, you should know that it felt “odd” to me, as a buyer, that I had to come read through hundreds of posts to better perspective of the technology before I bought the boat. I find it even more odd that I have to still do that after spending ~$80K. While that may be chump change to some, it’s a bloody expensive boat and one of the best features has quite frankly terrible documentation (I.e. a massive forum thread where I would bet a very small percentage of owners have actually read through it all).

I, as I’m sure many others, appreciate your willingness to interact with the community, but don’t you think you would solve a lot of the issues of people not understanding your tech if you provided proper/detailed but concise details or documentation through a manual, a PDF (by year or software version), or better yet, a wiki for ecosystem collaboration?

To not show ballast levels, which we all know is just timed based value but extremely useful values for an expensive wakeboarding/surfing boat until or “ONCE” we (the community) “learn” is counter intuitive and disappointing to say the least. It’s ridiculous that we have to dig through hundreds of thread posts to a) understand the tech or to b) see the quick workarounds such as to see ballast levels all while surfing. I understand the space argument considering the size of the screen, but if you actually wanted to provide it, 3 small values do not need fancy graphics or a ton of space.

If you want us (the community) to understand something as a prerequisite for something this basic, then please provide a proper means for us to collectively learn and understand. I don’t agree with your stance, but then again, I’m not in your shoes.

Lastly, don’t take this as negative feedback or as a complaint. It’s awesome that you are in the forums responding to questions, it’s an awesome community and you guys make a fantastic boat.

Regards
Riaan



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Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate all feedback whether good or bad. I completely agree we need to provide our customers with more info and thats the main reason i post on here so much. I think most know this but i work in product development not sales or marketing. I will relay that info and hopefully we can continue to provide better materials up front. As to product, we will continue to push that as well and i think you will see nice improvements on the 2019 product, AND we are continuing to try and make as many improvements retrofittable where we can.

Glad you are enjoying your boat. Hope you have a great summer with it!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by goose

Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate all feedback whether good or bad. I completely agree we need to provide our customers with more info and thats the main reason i post on here so much. I think most know this but i work in product development not sales or marketing. I will relay that info and hopefully we can continue to provide better materials up front. As to product, we will continue to push that as well and i think you will see nice improvements on the 2019 product, AND we are continuing to try and make as many improvements retrofittable where we can.

Glad you are enjoying your boat. Hope you have a great summer with it!

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Couldn't agree more, the whole screen setup design is confusing and combersum. There's a ton of wasted space, it annoying how small the most important numbers are, for me it's the depth, and wake plate numbers.

I havent actually used auto wake, I just set the wave manually, but each time I look at auto wake screen I'm like wtf?

I think you need to have some testers outside your group to get a better perspective. I always use the test, could my mom understand this?

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Originally Posted by parrothd

I think you need to have some testers outside your group to get a better perspective. I always use the test, could my mom understand this?

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Correction, can my wife understand this?!


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Best weekend yet with the Mondo. Here’s the steps we used to let Autowake run the show but help it get the biggest wake.
1. Fill all three stock ballast to 100%. I actually increased my timers to 6:30 on the rear and 10:30 on the front to make sure we had water spitting out the sides before the timers hit 100% and turned off.
2. Set the switch to the side we were going to start on and told my six passengers to sit towards the back corner of the surf side.
3. Turned on Autowake in static mode and checked pitch and roll. Moved people around to get to -2 roll and 0.5 pitch. This is autowake’s Static Autowake Achieved target for regular surfers. We moved around quickly before Autowake had a chance to drain any ballast.
4. Throttle up but have 1 or 2 people ready to move. As soon as you hit speed and the Autowake countdown started move a few people to get to the magical 9 degrees of pitch and -3 roll (or within a half degree).
5. Let Autowake do it’s job and enjoy the surf.
6. Whenever the surfer fell we’d check tanks by flipping one ( or all three) to fill. We found that very little ballast had drained (less than 3 %) in most cases.
We’d refill tanks after every fall and leave autowake off while returning to get the surfer as people were often up or moving around and we didn’t want Autowake trying to achieve static mode while we were bobbing in the waves.

Doing this we’re we’re able to get a great wake out of our little boat with just the stock 2300 lbs of ballast, no lead and about 1000lbs of people in the boat.

A few pointers. If I was filling the tanks and water started to overflow, we’d turn off the fill and set that timer to 100%. That way the boat knew it was full and also the drain timer would make sure it ran long enough to drain at the end of the day.

I also calibrated my roll first thing yesterday morning, first with a level in the boat and just me moving the seats around to get the boat level. Then testing at 18mph with zero ballast and watching for a perfectly symmetrical wake. My inclinometer was out 2 degrees.

Matt I can I check the pitch the same way, with a level on the floor of the boat? Obviously I can’t check pitch while running.

I had one other issue. I got a white screen in my navigation screen and then when I tried to go back to the home screen, my screen went dark. When I was back at the dock, I turned the boat off and on but still no screen. Only turning the battery master switch to off, then back on allowed my screen to reboot. It happened again later today and when trying every button I accidentally turned on my cruise and we slowed down to 11 mph. So the computer is still working, it’s just my screen going down.

Any ideas out there?


2018 Mondo, stock ballast 2300 lbs

just want to echo a previous posting. I have a brand new Moomba Craz 2017 and I was completely confused what autowake was and how to use and I googled Moomba autowake and found this--it's been great! It would be really helpful if I had known about this sooner :) I also have one question. Sometimes when we are surfing we are forced to turn by another boat in our path....the wave consistently falls apart and I essentially have to stop and restart to get a surfable wave. Is there anything I can do? Thanks!

Interesting that you say you have to stop completely.
The wave will definitely change shape if you are making turns, and I have found that if you turn into the direction of the side the wave is on it will flatten out and conversely if you turn away from the wave, it will steepen. But as soon as you straighten out the wave will be as it was before you started turning. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do, to keep the wave perfectly the same, if you are making turns. This is because the tilt of the boat directly influences wave shape.
On our lake, at one end we need to make a tight 180° turn (probably a 200’ diameter circle), and when we do, the rider has to come up close to the boat to stay in the truncated sweet spot, until we complete the turn and straighten out again.


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Cassandra,

Maybe while you’re turning Autowake is trying to fix your pitch and roll by draining or filling tanks. Then when you straighten out everything is off. One solution would be to flip one of your pump switches to fill for a couple seconds before making your turn. This will turn Autowake off but leave your cruise speed set. Then nothing will change while turning. After you straighten out, your wave should return to exactly the way you had it after the turn. You can turn Autowake on again by pressing the left button. After a countdown, Autowake will become active and start monitoring your pitch and roll and adjusting the ballast levels.

Hope this helps.

Dave


2018 Mondo, stock ballast 2300 lbs

Sounds like your surf plate got screwed up, not sure how that would happen buy turning, but my goofy plate was acting up Saturday, I had it set for 80% and stock autowake setting, and would get autowake achieved, but the wave was complete crap. Would stop go again, nothing, then cycled the switch for the plates a couple of times , then it worked, the plate was stuck at 40% even though it said it was at 80%

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You might also check what your wakeplate is doing when it does this, I've had mine also go to 100% on its own several times while surfing, with cruise set surfing, and with autowake set surfing, and it would reset back to where I had it set after stopping and going again.

Hi Matt, the static Autowake target numbers have been a huge help. For those that missed it try to get your boat at .5 pitch and either -2 roll or +2.5 roll depending on the surf side while sitting still waiting for the surfer to be ready. We do this by moving people to reduce the loss of ballast. I didn’t even realize that Autowake was trying to work while we were sitting still. We never got to "static Autowake achieved" before so I assumed that it was just letting me know that "static Autowake active" meant Autowake was ready to start working once we hit cruise speed. I was always a little miffed that I would see Autowake inactive right after throttle up but then I realized that you don’t want Autowake working while your pitch and roll are stabilizing. Looking forward to another great weekend - can't wait for holidays. Our lake has just hit a balmy 68 F. Hope you southerners appreciate what you have...

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Originally Posted by goose

Hey guys. The factory defaults for current boats is 70% port plate (for surfing goofy) and 60% stbd plate (for surfing regular). That should be in the owners manual, but if not, I will see if we can add it....

On the pitch and roll, that should also be in the manual, but should also display on the screen. The goofy roll is 5 degrees and the regular roll is 3 degrees. Pitch is 9 degrees for both.

The difference in plate deflection and roll is because of prop rotation and having to roll more because of it.

As some have mentioned, you might find different roll angles work better. For example, if you surf regular all the time, then maybe 4 or 5 degrees works better. If you want to transfer a lot, then maybe less roll works better. But rolling the boat is how the surf wave is created so you will just have to find what roll angle is best for you.

Also, I can't mention roll without again mentioning displacement. Most of you are starting to understand how much I stress displacement. IF you don't have much displacement, then you should stick pretty close to the factory defaults. However, as you start adding more displacement, then you can start experimenting with different angles. Moving the roll to a drastic angle WITHOUT adding displacement will very likely give you WORSE waves. The reason for that is because if you don't add roll with passenger weight, then the only way AutoWake can achieve a drastic roll will be to DRAIN ballast on other side. Roll without displacement will ALWAYS result in small waves. It might "look" better, but it will not have push. On the flip side of that, a boat with a LOT of displacement might not have roll perfect and the wave may not "look" perfect, but the overall displacement will generate push and when surfing, the main thing people complain about is not enough push. Pitch and Roll really have very little to do with push. Push is almost 100% displacement.

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Matt, I have a quick question concerning AW and pitch and roll. I've been using AW for the last several weeks and I have to say that I've learned a ton just by watching it and anticipating it's next move. It's made me better as I tweak my wave. I have a 2017 Helix and it's maxed out as far as weight/ballast goes. I'm at the "legal" limit and maxed on on AMP. I know that the default regular surf is 9/-3 with stock ballast. My question deals with pitch and roll now that I'm maxed out on displacement. I've figured out that a lower pitch seems to produce a shorter/longer length wave and higher than 9 equals a steeper/ shorter length wave. My main question is about roll. With me having additional rear weight, lead bags throughout, and more weight in my lockers surf side, my roll is a good bit higher than 3. Is there a point of TOO MUCH roll where the wave isn't shaped correctly/not ideal or is it all just personal preference. Is the (3) roll just the optimal number you guys discovered with the stock ballast? I'm new to surfing so I'm learning. I've got a decent wave now but I want to work to dial it in and get the most out of my boat that I can so I didn't know if there was a point where I shouldn't try to get too much roll or if you want to get as much as you can.

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Originally Posted by LAwake

Matt, I have a quick question concerning AW and pitch and roll. I've been using AW for the last several weeks and I have to say that I've learned a ton just by watching it and anticipating it's next move. It's made me better as I tweak my wave. I have a 2017 Helix and it's maxed out as far as weight/ballast goes. I'm at the "legal" limit and maxed on on AMP. I know that the default regular surf is 9/-3 with stock ballast. My question deals with pitch and roll now that I'm maxed out on displacement. I've figured out that a lower pitch seems to produce a shorter/longer length wave and higher than 9 equals a steeper/ shorter length wave. My main question is about roll. With me having additional rear weight, lead bags throughout, and more weight in my lockers surf side, my roll is a good bit higher than 3. Is there a point of TOO MUCH roll where the wave isn't shaped correctly/not ideal or is it all just personal preference. Is the (3) roll just the optimal number you guys discovered with the stock ballast? I'm new to surfing so I'm learning. I've got a decent wave now but I want to work to dial it in and get the most out of my boat that I can so I didn't know if there was a point where I shouldn't try to get too much roll or if you want to get as much as you can.

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I will try to address this without getting too "long winded". I know some of you give me crap about that. hahaha

You are correct that higher pitch typically results in steeper/shorter waves and vice versa. BUT, as I always say, that all greatly depends on displacement. If you only have factory ballast and 1 passenger, setting the pitch to 11 degrees will NOT result in a steeper/shorter wave. The reason is to get to 11 degrees pitch, with factory ballast and 1 passenger, the only way the system can do that is to drain all the ballast in the front. Draining the ballast reduces displacement. Reducing displacement reduces wake size. So, theoretically the wave SHOULD be steeper, but it will probably be so much smaller that you can't tell the shape.

Same applies to roll. IF you are truly maxed out on displacement and have a LOT of weight in the boat, then you can move the roll to what ever you prefer. BUT keep in mind as you continue to change roll, at some point it will have to drain ballast which reduces displacement, which reduces size. So, if you tried to go to 10 degrees roll, then you couldn't do that without removing ballast on non surf side. Again, without displacement, the wave gets smaller.

We did find that 9 and -3 worked best to get a good shape while also trying to maximize displacement.

Hope that makes sense...

Matt,

Can I make a feature request for future iterations, not directly tied to autowake? We’ve (the wife and I) have found that it would be extremely helpful to have an indicator for the rudder orientation on the boat. Even an old school needle dial would be great. There are many times that getting everything ready to start and you realize that the boat isn’t heading straight forward because you can’t tell the rudder position. So the boat lurches off to the side and the driver has to do a quick turn of the wheel all while throttling up.

Heath

Simple fix, my ex was even able to figure it out, you idle the boat forward before ripping your rider out of the water,, pretty easy to tell which way your rudder is pionted if you do that.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by chezdude

Matt,

Can I make a feature request for future iterations, not directly tied to autowake? We’ve (the wife and I) have found that it would be extremely helpful to have an indicator for the rudder orientation on the boat. Even an old school needle dial would be great. There are many times that getting everything ready to start and you realize that the boat isn’t heading straight forward because you can’t tell the rudder position. So the boat lurches off to the side and the driver has to do a quick turn of the wheel all while throttling up.

Heath

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There is no sensor on the rudder. As others have said go slow in doe and you will know where you’re rudder is pointed.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stazi

There is no sensor on the rudder.

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No sensor required. Old school manual needle gauge based on rotation of the steering column. Some things are better solved without technology that is expensive and prone to failure.

Heath

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Originally Posted by chezdude

No sensor required. Old school manual needle gauge based on rotation of the steering column. Some things are better solved without technology that is expensive and prone to failure.

Heath

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I have an even cheaper solution. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and then count how many turns to go all the way to the right. Then, whenever you are stopped and have the wheel cut all the way to one side (or the closest), turn the wheel half as many turns in the opposite direction. [emoji848]🤨[emoji54][emoji41] and boom you will take off straight. Orrrrrrr if you slowly take up the slack on the rope as the rider prepares to get up, you SHOULD be able to tell how the boat is tracking and adjust accordingly.

Really, it’s not that hard to figure out. How different is it to a car? Do you have a steering sensor and gauge in your car so you don’t accelerate into the curb? Crikey...sometimes I wonder....people with solutions looking for imaginary problems.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stazi

I have an even cheaper solution. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and then count how many turns to go all the way to the right. Then, whenever you are stopped and have the wheel cut all the way to one side (or the closest), turn the wheel half as many turns in the opposite direction. [emoji848]🤨[emoji54][emoji41] and boom you will take off straight. Orrrrrrr if you slowly take up the slack on the rope as the rider prepares to get up, you SHOULD be able to tell how the boat is tracking and adjust accordingly.

Really, it’s not that hard to figure out. How different is it to a car? Do you have a steering sensor and gauge in your car so you don’t accelerate into the curb? Crikey...sometimes I wonder....people with solutions looking for imaginary problems.


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Well played sir!!!


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Originally Posted by larry_arizona

Well played sir!!!


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I agree it’s not hard to take off straight however a car make it much easier since the caster of the front tires tries to straighten the wheel for you once you start rolling


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Hi All,
I've read about half of this thread, and I'm looking to upgrade to the new Makai, can anyone tell if you can switch surf sides on the fly?

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Originally Posted by Farmerdes

Hi All,
I've read about half of this thread, and I'm looking to upgrade to the new Makai, can anyone tell if you can switch surf sides on the fly?

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Yes you can. You can do it on all the 2017+ Autowake systems.


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Is there a way to reset the profile setting back to factory defaults?
I have a Supra SL, it was a demo boat before me so I’m thinking the default settings have been played with as I don’t get the same numbers you guys mention.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mmmbort

Is there a way to reset the profile setting back to factory defaults?
I have a Supra SL, it was a demo boat before me so I’m thinking the default settings have been played with as I don’t get the same numbers you guys mention.

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Your SL should have factory presets for wakeboard beginner and advanced as well as wake surf presets, demo boat would not erase these, but they may have saved some custom rider profiles.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by goose

Start with your current best setup. In this case you are talking about having the port plate set at 80%. Let AutoWake do its thing and see how the wake looks and feels. Then go into manual mode and on the controls page slowly move the port plate all the way down to 100% by moving it 5% at a time. Then, move the plate all the way to 0%, again 5% at a time. As you do that you can physically watch the shape of the wave change. If you turn on AutoWake, you would also see both the roll AND pitch change as you did that (you can't adjust plates with AW on, so you would have to turn on each time). As you do that what you will find is there will be a range of where the wave looks best. It is likely the wave will be completely washed out from 0-35%. Then around 40% it will start to clean up and then about 85%, it will start to lose any lip to the wave. Now you will see based on your current ballast setup, what the range of plate you can be. Truth is you will get the most push on the low side of that range and the most length on the high side of that range.
.

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Just want to clarify... If I've toggled to the so called second screen and we are surfing goofy and AW engaged we will see the Port tab and wakeplate setting. I can adjust wakeplate easily and see wave change. The up/down arrows under the button on dash allow for port plate to move 5% at a time. Is it correct, as Goose mentioned, that you cannot adjust on the fly while AW is engaged?

I can press the up/down arrow and see the numbers move and I swear the wave changes, but maybe the display is changing and the plate is actually staying at the position it was in when AW was engaged and cruise speed reached. We have a 2017 Craz Surf Edition. I have NOT updated firmware, still same firmware that boat came with. Maybe that is the difference. I'm actually updating firmware this weekend so we can calibrate roll independently from pitch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lidsterl

Just want to clarify... If I've toggled to the so called second screen and we are surfing goofy and AW engaged we will see the Port tab and wakeplate setting. I can adjust wakeplate easily and see wave change. The up/down arrows under the button on dash allow for port plate to move 5% at a time. Is it correct, as Goose mentioned, that you cannot adjust on the fly while AW is engaged?

I can press the up/down arrow and see the numbers move and I swear the wave changes, but maybe the display is changing and the plate is actually staying at the position it was in when AW was engaged and cruise speed reached. We have a 2017 Craz Surf Edition. I have NOT updated firmware, still same firmware that boat came with. Maybe that is the difference. I'm actually updating firmware this weekend so we can calibrate roll independently from pitch

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Yes that is correct, with the original version software you can toggle your surf plates up and down with autowake engaged, the new software you cannot while autowake is engaged.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by stevemarich

Yes that is correct, with the original version software you can toggle your surf plates up and down with autowake engaged, the new software you cannot while autowake is engaged.

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Agreed


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I played around with ballast fill times to make sure my tanks were in fact full when the timers turned the pumps off. I've reset them back to a few seconds longer than factory (6:30 rears and 10:30 bow, vs 6 and 10). I think when I increased the times to fill the drain times also increased. Now that I've set them back to close to factory specs, I think the drain times stayed at the higher settings. Are the fill and drain times supposed to match?
Also, any tips on getting the last of the water out of the tanks before I go for a ski? I can hear them sucking air but if I lift the front of the sac a little more water drains out. Are all drain and fill pumps in the rear of the sac? Should I run at 1500 rpm with the wake plate at 0 to try and get my bow up and drain the last few pounds?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CanadaGuy

I played around with ballast fill times to make sure my tanks were in fact full when the timers turned the pumps off. I've reset them back to a few seconds longer than factory (6:30 rears and 10:30 bow, vs 6 and 10). I think when I increased the times to fill the drain times also increased. Now that I've set them back to close to factory specs, I think the drain times stayed at the higher settings. Are the fill and drain times supposed to match?
Also, any tips on getting the last of the water out of the tanks before I go for a ski? I can hear them sucking air but if I lift the front of the sac a little more water drains out. Are all drain and fill pumps in the rear of the sac? Should I run at 1500 rpm with the wake plate at 0 to try and get my bow up and drain the last few pounds?

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The fill and drain times are independent and can be adjusted how ever you like. From the factory, we make the drain timers 30 seconds longer than fill. So, if you changed fill from 6 to 6:30, then I recommend you change the drain to about 7. BUT, if you constantly fill while running and drain while sitting still, then you may want to adjust drain to 1 minute longer, maybe more.

As to draining, yes all drain ports are in the rear of the bag. It is best to drain while running at a higher pitch to force the water down to the back of the bag. You should also check your hose routing and hose orientation. Sometimes if you have picked up the bag, it will twist the fittings into an upward facing position. If the fitting is pointing up, then the bag can only drain to the inlet of the fitting. You may need to twist the fitting to get it as low as possible.

Truth is you will never be able to get every drop out of the bag. But if you get the bag fittings correct and drain while running and drain until they suck air, then that is about the best you can do.

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Originally Posted by larry_arizona

Your SL should have factory presets for wakeboard beginner and advanced as well as wake surf presets, demo boat would not erase these, but they may have saved some custom rider profiles.


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I think you can tune the factory presets though so I’m wondering if there is a way for me to double check what those true factory numbers should be? Or if there is just a way to restore original factory settings so I can be sure it’s not been played with?

If you go to ballast timer screen there should be an option to restore factory presets.

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Originally Posted by z28ke

If you go to ballast timer screen there should be an option to restore factory presets.

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So that only lets you select full or empty on the tanks. I’d like to reset the profiles back to factory settings.

Trying to figure out autowake. Seems to work fine on port side. I surf goofy. This morning i tried to use autowake, have been just filling manually. Auto wake filled my port ballast to 100%, starboard-or surf side- to 0. Yes 0. Had significant list of course to port. What the heck? Only had 4 in boat total. Had setting to stbd side surf, 5% roll yet roll was to port. Tried moving all riders to port and then stbd. Baffled. If I fill manually its perfect, fill to 100 surf side, 80 off and center. Help.

Make sure it wasn't set -5% for starboard auto wake. What year is the boat, if it's a 17 and hasn't had new software installed ,there were some glitches like that in the original version

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Originally Posted by TracySMojo

Trying to figure out autowake. Seems to work fine on port side. I surf goofy. This morning i tried to use autowake, have been just filling manually. Auto wake filled my port ballast to 100%, starboard-or surf side- to 0. Yes 0. Had significant list of course to port. What the heck? Only had 4 in boat total. Had setting to stbd side surf, 5% roll yet roll was to port. Tried moving all riders to port and then stbd. Baffled. If I fill manually its perfect, fill to 100 surf side, 80 off and center. Help.

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Originally Posted by stevemarich

Make sure it wasn't set -5% for starboard auto wake. What year is the boat, if it's a 17 and hasn't had new software installed ,there were some glitches like that in the original version

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Its an ‘18. Checked and rechecked it was set correct. Went to vessel settings/autowake. Had flow surf toggle correct.

That is strange, I wonder if you set it manually were you like it , then turn on auto wake, if it would drain it all out. Possible though is a bad inclinometer, sending false data.

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Originally Posted by TracySMojo

Its an ‘18. Checked and rechecked it was set correct. Went to vessel settings/autowake. Had flow surf toggle correct.

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Originally Posted by chezdude

Matt,

Can I make a feature request for future iterations, not directly tied to autowake? We’ve (the wife and I) have found that it would be extremely helpful to have an indicator for the rudder orientation on the boat. Even an old school needle dial would be great. There are many times that getting everything ready to start and you realize that the boat isn’t heading straight forward because you can’t tell the rudder position. So the boat lurches off to the side and the driver has to do a quick turn of the wheel all while throttling up.

Heath

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I agree with the other suggestions. (not to derail this thread). I don't have autowake or launch control. so for my boat it's extremely important to take off with a straight rudder as that affects how fast my wave develops BIG TIME. It's pretty simple like others have said. Turn the steering wheel to full lock, (on my boat) two rotations and it's in the center. 2 more rotations at it's full lock the other direction. My wife nails it (almost) every time.