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Can't tell you off the top of my head. both the starboard pumps are in front of the OEM ballast thru hull. and I think I'll still be able to get in there okay? I don't know. I guess I'll find out. the holes are drilled, not like I can turn back!Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd
Looks good, I don't see any issues with priming based on your pump location and attitude.
Be careful reusing the factory drain pump configuration, that design introduces a lot of issues related to priming. We would much prefer having the pump connected directly to the bag, which will give you rock-solid drain performance.
I'm following this thread, I don't want to derail it, but am curious if what I am thinking would work. Right now I have the GIII system but with upgraded bags all running off the standard single pump and sprinkler valves.
Here's what I'm thinking, if I replace the sprinkler valves and single pump with three of these pumps; http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Corpor...s=tsunami+pump
Can I use the single thru hull intake? do I need an intake for each pump?
At this point I am trying to piece this together as funds are available. Having a baby and building a house all while trying to make my GIII system better.
Thanks for you input
Is this what you suggest then? I am actually thinking about something similar to this but with the 1 1/8" hardware and the 1" hose instead of constricting myself back down to 3/4... Thoughts?Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonwm
http://www.wakemakers.com/media/exte...92/d/33007.jpg
http://www.wakemakers.com/media/exte...1-19.10.55.jpg
First off, I found out that there's two styles of Tsunami pumps. The ones on ebay and amazon are typically the ones that have the weird 1 1/8 thread that you can't find hardly anything to mate up with. The ones that wakemakers sells are a smidge more expensive, but they have the inlet that's 1" NPT and that's TOTALLY worth it because it'll screw directly into a 1" ball valve or an elbow or whatever typical plumbing stuff you're using from the thru hull.Quote:
Originally Posted by sivs1
What I found is that our Factory intake is a "scupper" and would have forced water into the pumps even when they were turned off.
I chose to go with dedicated thru-hulls for each of my 3 pumps. I could have possibly gone with fewer and a Tee, but I wanted to do it right from the start.
I am finding that had I gone with reversible, it would have most certainly made for an easier install. I'm still okay with my decision, because I do think I'll still have a faster system in the end, but the cost difference between reversible and aerators (if you're upgrading your hoses and everything) starts to narrow. especially when you have to make trips to the plumbing store for more pieces. The factory thru-hull with the scupper could be reused with a reversible pump.
The pumps off ebay and amazon with the 1 1/8 on the intake are fine for your drain pumps though.
I chose to have separate thru hulls for my drain and vent also, because it was cheaper to buy another thru-hull than to buy a Tee and a check valve.
Honestly it's hard to piece together an upgrade because I've found that if you simply upgrade to 3 pumps, you'll have to deal with the scupper forcing water through them when off (i.e. new thru hulls or grinding off the fins of the scupper) and you'll also have to deal with whether the 3/4" thru hull is really enough for 3 pumps at once. Then you're hooking 3/4" hose to the pumps... If you ever decide to go to larger diameter hose (1" or 1 1/8") then you're possibly having to replace some of the fittings you just bought.
I did contemplate going with 1" lines on the fill side and then 3/4 on the drain side, because then I could reuse a lot of my 3/4" bag fittings and stuff on the drain side and save a little bit of money that way... But in the end, I'm leaning towards going with bigger lines all around, even if it means I'm blowing a little more money on the front end.
The factory scooper can be removed a couple different ways. One way is to use piano wire to cut thru the adhesive. Another way, which I did, is to set up a 'puller' to pull the scooper free. I placed a piece of threaded rod thru the center of the scooper. In the bilge area, I placed a large washer and nut. On the bottom of the boat, I placed a spreader bar, washer and nut across two short pieces of wood, which sat on both sides of the scooper. Tightening the nut pulled the scooper towards the spreader bar, and broke it free from the adhesive.
Good to know. I'm just keeping mine to use for a future upgrade of adding a 4th pump that's a reversible as a pump to fill auxiliary bags...Quote:
Originally Posted by jstenger
Shortest length of hose there you can = best priming w/o issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by trayson
So is that a drain? Shouldn't it be on the low side? On the back side of the bag..
It's just a pic from wakemakers. Yes, the drain would obviously be at the stern of a bag in the rear lockers...Quote:
Originally Posted by parrothd