Good deal man. We were in the area this weekend, wish we could have made it out to Belton to ride with you guys.
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Good deal man. We were in the area this weekend, wish we could have made it out to Belton to ride with you guys.
Harpoon cut off yesterday and when I touched it I think I almost burnt my hand. Charged all the batteries over night and went out again today and it cut off again. Fml
With no more than two pair of surf speakers on a Harpoon something else has to be going on here.
If you are trying to drive surf speakers extra hard at wake range then I wouldn't be surprised.
Make sure that the DCR of all four tower speakers are nearly identical. Since you have 'Q's remove just one at a time to see if the amplifier doesn't start running much cooler. This would indicate partial damage in that speaker which can create an inordinate load.
David
Earmark Marine
Can't you just check resistance across the speaker to see if it is damaged? I never run more than 75% volume. I have butt connector in my speaker wire half way up the tower, could those be adding resistance causing the problem? Should I run 12 or 14 gauge wire here instead of 16?
Also the ambient air temp was about 100-104 degrees. The
Volume according to my ws420 was between the half marker and the next marker up. we turn it about right there when we pull someone and then cut it off when the fall. The cabins and sub were doing this before the battery changes but we never really took them past half volume this weekend and we never had a problem
Yes, you can check the DCR for consistency (+ or - .1 ohm is fine) between speakers but if there is an issue with a tweeter then it will not show up since it has a series capacitor in the highpass section of the passive crossover network that will not pass DC.
A butt connector absolutely creates resistance which is why we solder and heatshrink everything. In fact if you have a butt connector on a 15 amp halogen light supply harness it will get hot enough to burn you.
For the kind of power you are running 14/4 is par for four surf speakers and 12/4 is the norm for four HLCDs. 16/4 is light although its doubtful that either of these issues are the actual cause for your thermal failure.
The relationship between a volume control and output power is not a linear equation. If a volume attenuator works in 1.5 dB increments then cutting back two clicks is half power. Cutting back six clicks would be one/tenth power. So I'm not sure what you mean by,"75 percent".
You could email me. Maybe we'll set up a phone conversation. We'll start from the beginning. I need to verify a number of conditions. [email protected]
David
Earmark Marine
75% just means the knob was turned 75% of it's total travel.
The other night I ran my hlcds at max, was rocking on the way home from dinner, at 37mph ,it was dark , so no one could see my regs # , my bad, for 1 hour on my class D and when I check the voltage on my batts the next morning they were at 12.78 volts.....very happy ,btw the sound was awesome
THREAD REVIVAL!!!!!
Sooo what was the solution!?
I'm having the same problem. I'm running 2 Kicker 700.5s (1) to the Exile cabins and sub (1) to the Exile towers
It's 100 degrees out. Amps are both smokin HAWT to touch, go into protection mode, 5min break and back to business.
I have 2 batteries with perko switch that are possibly needing to be replaced, but don't wanna go that route just yet if you guys figured out it was a separate problem...
Amps can and will be hot to the touch, but that in itself doesnt mean they are going into protect mode due to their internal temp. You have 2 identical amp, but both may be used differently. Are they both going into protect mode at the same time? If so, I would look into something other then heat, like battery voltage. Is this a problem with the engine running or while at anchor or both? What gauge amp cabling is used for both amps?Quote:
Originally Posted by tgoody14
How many speakers is each amp driving? Is the sub a 2 or 4 ohm load at the amp? Are the amps bolted directly to a carpeted wall?
Amp 1 powers 6 cabins and 1 factory kicker 10" (I don't know ohm) Gain is set at around 80% 6ga wiresQuote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Amp 2 powers 2 XM9s. Gain is set at around 80% 2ga wires (honestly, I could prolly not jam out as hard as I do on the towers to help this amp :/)
Both amps are sitting directly on carpeted amp rack. (Should've thought about adding spacers, but didn't *banging head)
It happens parked and while surfing. Not real often and only if we crank it super loud during a song and forget to turn it back down. They are going into "Protection" (as the little red light is on). I haven't had them both shut off at the same time tho, it's usually just one or the other. Then I just turn those speakers all the way down, leaving the others still going and after about one song the other speakers are back to normal.
It's not a SERIOUS problem since its not like every 20mins but it is frustrating for sure and if its a simple fix that I can handle myself then I will attempt it, but if it requires pulling everything back out then I will just live with it til the end of season. I'm bout spent out on Mods already this year and just ready to enjoy the water!!!
Thanks for the reply, good sir
Attachment 17541
If this helps any....
Also, I'm already in the process of setting up a 6" fan in there to help with air flow
One more question... With the gains set up at about 80% of 100 I'm only having to turn my volume knobs to halfway and it's PLENTY loud. Would it help the amps from overheating if I turned the gains down?
Because obviously its pushing more than enough, but I don't know if it would help any I guess is my question...
T,
6ga gauge cabling if fine since the batteries are close
Your OEM 10 is probably a 4 ohm, so thats good. We have run that same amp with 6 speakers and a 2 ohm sub on a number of times over the years.
I would install some stand-offs and get them off the carpet. This allows for some air flow behind them. Adding a fan does little unless you are actually cycling the air in the locker. Blowing the same hot air across them will do nothing. The ideal solution is to get fresh cool air across the amps and the hot air out of the locker. This takes 2 fans, some ducting and maybe a shroud. But I would go here last as in most cases we can solve this by other means.
80% gain! Start here. These need to be lowered. Even with the Typical 2V OEM head-unit line level, we rarely see these Kicker amps end up past the 11 oclock position on the gain dial. Thats just shy of 50%. This will absolutely reduce the load of the amp. Gains need to be set with the head-unit at its max pre-clip level, which will be right about 75-80% of the head-unit max level as opposed to maxing the amp gains, then only turning the head-unit up till its loud enough for you. Google "Gain setting" and fallow it. I also see that you have an EQ. If its a line driver, then your gains should be even lower....about 30%.
Both those amp need to be set to "HI-Pass". Each amp has 2 slide switches that will be labeled "X-Over-1" and "X-Over-2" with 2 positions of "OFF" and "HI". Slide them all to HI. This will also reduce the load on the amp. Next, set the cross-over frequency dial to 100Hz for both the in-boat chnls and tower chnls. again, 2 dials per amp.
T, good information
strange, when I asked for gain recommendations, I got us an volt meter or o- scope, no recommended gain range was provided must be the different brand equipment.:twisted:
rant and hijak over
Out. Standing. That's great news Thanks MLA
I run my iPod thru the Aux on my EQ and bypass the actual factory head unit.
Hopefully turning the gains down will solve this issue! I'll have to check the crossovers and see, I can't remember what I set them at...
High pass for the cabins and towers, but I'm assuming that 5th channel for the sub is a low pass by default correct?
Thanks again
LOL don't you go starting trouble here Joe!!!! 😎Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvotto
Stacking those amplifiers one over the top of the other is not helping the thermal issues. Rotate them from horizontal to vertical side-by-side. Space them several inches apart. Space them off the panel by half an inch. No EQ or bass boost if you want maximum volume. Set the gains and crossovers correctly. Then you may not need a fan.
If you add a fan the largest issue is using a fan shroud which multiplies the fan's effectiveness many times. A raw fan just hovering over the amplifier has limited benefit.
A second fan exchanging air with the bilge will multiply the contribution of the amplifier fan....if needed.
David
David,
My plan with the fans were to basically create an airflow from the bow, through the compartment with the hatch open. Basically, just to help circulate the hotter air out (simple fix to help is all)
I leave bass boost completely off. I saw your post on another thread on this topic!
As for the spacers off the amp board, I'm hoping I can wait that out til the off season if the gain issue solves my problem!
Thanks for the reply!
Is spacing the amps .5"-1" off a carpeted amp rack going to yield a significant improvement in airflow?
Joe,Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvotto
if you reread your thread, you will see that you also received the same basic info. You were offered sound advice to set the gains properly as opposed to mimicking the exact settings of someone else with a similar setup. Although this may have put the gains in a safe range, but then again, you may have taken the settings from someone with theirs set to oh lets say...80% of max. So we would then be addressing a gain hiss/noise issue, etc. with your system.
I did not tell T where to set his gains, nor did i give him a recommended range to set them within. I gave him some perspective of just how high his gains are set. This is based on years of experience and installing and setting up countless Kicker 700.5 amps. In the end, T, as well as you, was given the advice to set the gains using a commonly accepted method.
I would take the Ipod/MP3 through the head-units AUX and take advantage of the head-units 2V output to the EQ. Your headphone output is probably less then .5V.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgoody14
Yes, the dedicated sub chnl on those 700.5 amps are low-pass only. So just check the 4 switches for the 8 full-range chnls.
Awesome!!! Sounds great! And yes I have that hiss/noise in my speakers before I even turn up the volume (due to the gain being to high) thanks for that as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by MLA
I did not know the Krypt EQ aux was less than the factory headunit so I will definitely go back to using that! Thank god I ran a 20ft aux cord around the bow to the drivers side as well... Pheww 😅
Thanks again
Definitely! Orrrr well it more less allows air to pass above and below the amp helping some of the heat to get away from the Amp rather than being trapped.Quote:
Originally Posted by bzubke1
I've seen it done many times and also adding computer fans one on each side of the air vents on the amp to help circulate air over the circuit boards inside the amp. I'm still kicking myself for not doing this, totally slipped my mind....
I have seen the quicky tuning advice many times. At best they are very rough guidelines. And the over-simplified and abbreviated version is okay for someone who has very little tolerance for anything technical because they are not going to follow a more thorough prescription anyway. But they always have unrealized performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvotto
Here's the thing: With every change of head unit or source the tuning settings are different. Different with different boats and different speaker mounting provisions. Different with different speakers. Different with different amplifiers. Different on the same amplifier with different load impedances among the different channels. And so on.
It's a method and technique, even an art for the really proficient few.
David
I don't know about Significant, but think about yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by bzubke1
If your hot and have to sit in the seat in your car, your back is just cooking right? Still sweating like a dog. But if you stand up or at least lean a little forward your back gets some relief of the heat. Same principle.
When i build my amp racks and place my amps, i always use 1/2 stand offs, but i also cut the centers out like this.
All the white sections behind the amps i cut out, just cant find that picture.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps519aeaf5.jpg
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps60743138.jpg
Thanks mike that makes total sense. I'm gonna try it this weekend and see what kind of improvement I see.
Perfect Example!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by mmandley
⭐ for Mike 👏
Just left the boat stall and looks like I already had both amps on high pass so that's good! I was able to roll both amps back just over 50% on the gains and also I lowered the frequencies from about 150 down to 100...Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Now I can crank the volume knob all the way, not saying I will cuz it was almost too much to bear... That was in a metal boat storage too tho so it may be just right once we get out on the water!
It didn't seem like I did much (physical labor), but I sure hope this fixes the overheating cuz I really don't want to pull all that stuff outta there and lift those amps! At least not til the off season!!!
Thanks again MLA! Cross your fingers for me ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Mike, i agree ,you gave me solid advice on the cross over points and how to efficiently set the pre clip leaves in the other thread.
Re read this thread and 50% and 30% were recommended gains for t's system, it's pretty clear my system is the black sheep and gets no love. Lol