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See around the 1:00 mark on my video and you’ll see it while I talk about it. Note I think the sensor style and position has changed over the years as I’ve seen different setups on some of the newer boats. The reason why it does it more on the WM bag is the bag is taller and unless the sensor location changes (moves higher) water will get to it before the bag is full.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildH
https://youtu.be/qI4cjxHvNPI
This is the rear port flow sensor on my 2021 Makai. It is at the top of the hard tube, but I probably need to move it o up or over to the flex tube. Mine shuts off before completely filling the bag too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4302046efe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8c40b04fd5.jpg
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Very helpful! Thanks.
I wonder if they can be disconnected or 'hot wired'. With venting and overflow it's pretty easy to tell when it's full.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
Not sure honestly. I heard some others talking about getting error messages if you disconnect them though.
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How are people moving that when it's that full tube setup on the bag sensor? I have the same in my 21 Makai and was trying to figure out how to movie it.
Looks to me the tube is just a “cover” over existing ballast tubing to keep it vertical. The top of the tube looks like a separate piece than and the sensor is slide in between it all. My guess is the top piece can be removed and sensor replaced or moved but hard to tell without being in front of my. Thankfully the only tube I have like that is the draft sensor used for amplitude readings.
That longer hard plastic tube has a clamp going to the flex tube at both ends. I had someone tell me to raise their sensor, they replaced the short piece with a longer piece of flex tube at the bottom. Then just remounted the whole assembly up higher.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1a2fab4de3.jpg
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If that's the case you could just get the diameter of the hard tube and buy a piece of PVC and cut the hard tube and splice in a piece. Either way it could be done pretty easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
Thanks for the pick.
This is how I did mine…….https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0d13b64d8d.jpg
Took a 90 deg fitting, some tubing and a few clamps
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That looks simple and straight forward enough.
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Does this allow Autowake to function properly too or just allow the bags to fully fill?Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSurf4
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The overfill water sensors don’t have anything to do with Autowake. The only one I’m aware of that does is the amplitude tube.
That might be the one I’m thinking of.Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
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That one is strapped to the wall directly behind the rear seat on mine. Does it need to be raised when installing the WM kit?Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlanseay
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Mine is in same spot. Mine is also never showed amplitude to be accurate. I’ve never seen mine go all the way to the top even with 100 amplitude set and 5600 lbs or so of ballast lol. I read somewhere on here or maybe the FB group that someone had theirs calibrated but not sure how they did that. I never used AW anyways so it’s of little concern to me mine isn’t accurate or display I’m actually loading the boat down.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
I rarely use AutoWake either, but I did calibrate my amplitude not long after I got the boat. It was easy. There is a YouTube video of someone doing it out there I believe. You do it with the ballast empty, and whatever you consider an average tank of gas. I stood in the center of the boat with it floating freely in calm water. It's just a matter of finding the selection in the vessel menu to re-calibrate the amplitude. Doesn't take long.Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
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It don't believe it needs to be raised for the wake makers kit as the point of the kit is to increase your displacement which should increase your "amplitude". Now that being said my amplitude bar is terrible. It has never really worked well as it seems like there is air trapped in it sometimes. I know I have read that it actually needs to "warm up" before it works well so maybe I need to pay attention to it later in my runs but there are times where I have a crew of 8-10 and are at full ballast (4,700 in water and 1k in lead) and the actual side of the bar is just pegged at the bottom. I don't worry about it to much any more as I have disabled the part of the autowake logic that uses it. You can read about that here in ragboy's post #89Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....ghlight=ragboy
https://wake9.com/2021/07/01/2021-moomba-mojo-settings/
Mine varies as well, sometimes it shows nothing and other times is shows 100% which is why I feel like there might be air stuck in it a times.Quote:
Originally Posted by haknslash
Did you do the amplitude like that or the inclinometer? I have done my inclinometer like that and I know there is way to calibrate the draft sensor I just don't remember where I read it. If you come across that video can you share it?Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
I know people have been setting up boats for years with out all of the fancy tech we have now but when I hear that people don't use Autowake I always wonder why. I will admit it took me a little bit to sort it out and get it dialed, but after watching and reading a bunch of Ragboy's stuff on Youtube/Wake9 Autowake works amazing for me and my wave is so consistent. I love it.
I like that AW identifies where you need to move weight/people to achieve your pitch/roll values but I dislike that it will empty ballast to achieve that. I want the boat at 100% of it's possible displacement always and then I will manually move people or leadbags based on it's recommendations.Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSurf4
While I think we all agree that we want to keep our boats as heavy as possible while we surf I personally don't have the time or the patience to move lead or ask people to sit here or there. We always have a decent crew of 8 on the boat so people are all over and their added weight negates any ballast draining to me. When Ragboy put out his video of where to put the lead I followed it to a T and I have to say it is dead on if you want to just set it and forget it. I had done my own version of lead placement before and it was similar but when I did it his way it worked out perfect. Now I just fill everything up all the way turn on autowake and go. I periodically through the day will flip all the switches and top the bags off and then let it do it's thing again. When surfing regular I am usually at 100, 100, 85 and for goofy it is 100,100,100 but it never drains more than 15% anywhere. I believe Autowake wont drain ballast if it knows that it will need to drain more the 20%. Instead it will tell you that pitch or roll cant be achieved and to basically move people which in that event I will ask a few people to move to the bow as it is only when I have a larger crew on a hot day (everyday here in TX) and everyone is in the cabin trying to get a little shade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden
Roberts video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD1wEPrSWuw
Side note and not related to your post Hayden: I know I probably sound like a Ragboy (Robert) fanboy but I honestly feel like he is a huge asset to the surfing world with his wealth of knowledge and information he has out there especially to us SC customers. If you have a Moomba or Supra you can basically go to his youtube, look up your specific model of boat and he has a video telling you the exact formula to get a great wave. Maybe I am in the minority on that but I feel like most other brands don't have this.
Hard NOT to be a fanboi of Ragboy.
Tremendous asset to the wake community.
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You know what....it WAS the inclinometer I calibrated last summer! [emoji3526]. Sorry! I gotta stop posting after a few drinks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSurf4
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Why?!! Leads to great discussion.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
2022 SA 450
Tige did, until Robert changed brands. Tige was the best, until, you know, SC put him in a boat.Quote:
Side note and not related to your post Hayden: I know I probably sound like a Ragboy (Robert) fanboy but I honestly feel like he is a huge asset to the surfing world with his wealth of knowledge and information he has out there especially to us SC customers. If you have a Moomba or Supra you can basically go to his youtube, look up your specific model of boat and he has a video telling you the exact formula to get a great wave. Maybe I am in the minority on that but I feel like most other brands don't have this.
couldn’t agree more I just find myself telling people to reference this or that and it is all his stuff lolQuote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
Drink on my friend!!Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
For me it really isn’t even about his love for SC or this boat or that boat as much as it is his technical data but I get what you are saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
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I don’t care if Robert gets an SC boat or a Tige, more the power to him.
His knowledge helps no matter the brand, it’s a bonus that it helps SC boats more specifically.
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FYI...I just tried unplugging mine this weekend and worked fine. No error codes. I just use the timers and overflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlanseay
Super old thread, but trying to not fight the air this season.Quote:
Originally Posted by HFarr
How are these working for you? Do you still use them? $7 each x 3 is a cheap $21 fix.
I actually only had one per bag, and they worked pretty well. I dont have them in now that I got the WM upgraded bags. They stood just tall enough that they hit the cover when the bags are full. There may be some lower profile, but I have not checked. I am going to plumb some tubing into my existing overflow vents,but just haven't done it yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
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I figured 1 in each bag but I don't think it will fit on the bow bag.
Certainly would help on my 1100's in the rear.
Not sure if the vent is different on your bow bag in your 2015, but the OEM vent in my 2020 works quite well. Mine is a hose connected to a fitting on the top of the bag at the extreme front. It exits out the side of the boat just in front of the driver. If I fill my back bags first, the boat pitch makes that vent the highest point on the bag so the air is pretty well bled. A check valve would help to ensure all air is removed but not essential.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdmybeer
So true. Robert was a west coast Tige guy back in the day when everyone had HUGE boat lists to one side and the transoms almost sunk. Not to put Tige down, but they were slow to make technology changes as the surf industry was exploding. Never owned one, rode on a few, but know peeps that moved to different brands b/c of this. Not the case today, they had some nice boats at last winter's boat show.Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA
Good move by SC to get Robert into a boat. Sells boats. Loves to talk to surfers or engineers about tech on boats. There is a video somewhere out there of him and his son designing and building a ballast system with software back in the day.
Here is one video from 2018 of those slammed Tige boats:
https://youtu.be/mBmpux3QJUQ