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Good news I got it off. Bad news what have I done? I think I can simply pry off the spot welded tabs from the inside with a screwdriver to remove the flaps. I will reinstall with enough Vaseline to Intrigue a 15 year old boy. Removal was done with a series of twisting of the pipe. About a 15 "phuck!" Job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7330106106.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...397d1cfb3e.jpg
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Ummm Yeah.that is some strong material. Laid waste to 2 unibits right off the bat. Threw a 1/2 inch drill bit at it and it spit in my face. I tried to bend them open with a pry bar and it asked if I was feeling cute. I need a die grinder and dont own one. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7a95142f3b.jpg
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What is the trick to getting the baffle out? Did you just push the hose to the side as far as you can or did you bend it in half to make room for it slide off? I am sure there is something I am just missing.
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I guess it doesnt take much more to bolt it anyways. They are right, might as well take the extra precaution.Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
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Bolt it!
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So I got down there and rotated the hose bunch of times.. I removed all the clamps and would rotate will pushing toward the rudder. Then I would kink the hose a bit and bend it straight up and pull. This is about finess when working around the blower ext. But rotate the shit out of it. That seems to loosen it up. Mine eventually popped off.Quote:
Originally Posted by htfit
Not perfect but definitely good enough. Neighbore had a Dremel and We hammered it, beat on it and eventually got most of material cut out. then it was kids dinner, and bedtime so we called it a day. I think I'm going to leave it at this. If I had better tools this would probably be a non-event but in hindsight I should have bought the damn tube.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...be261532ee.jpg
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Awesome, I will give it a try. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
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I taped blue tape around the hole and found the hole center with a square. I then drew a center line. I cheated the pipe up a hair in the hole then marked and drilled a pilot hole followed by the 11/64 drill bit all what paying close attention to drill angle(keeping it slightly up.) I then used the wood screw to tighten up the pipe on the top hole. Once the kid and I decided what was straight I took the sharpe and eyeballed the next two holes in the slots and drilled them out. I bought 1/4-20 SS machine screws, but thinking I will down size to 3/16 tomorrow so we scrapped install. I decided I had better fit that exhaust hose in because it would be extremely difficult to do with exhaust in. I used spray away glass cleaner to lube the tube and shovel the baffle pipe in engine side to the sharpe mark I made. We then lubed the other tube up and fussed and cussed it in but me bending and rotating with neighbor shoving it in with hand from transom hole. Tomorrow we final drill, test fit, then lube and goo.
Thank you flienlow for posting all the tips.
I finally got around to finishing mine. I was able to get the baffle out bending the rear hose and wrapping a rope around it while someone pulled. The only thing I did was keep the clamps on the baffle so it came off with the hose. It was a little easier removing the baffle from the rear hose in a vise once it was out vs removing it still inside the boat if that makes any sense.
I used silicone spray to help get everything slide back in together.
I did bolt it through like everyone recommended. The only thing I am nervous about was I didnt wait 2 hours before tightening it down so the 5200 had time to dry a little. I cranked it down right away really tight and I hope I didnt just squeeze out all the sealant.
I just put it back together without reading the directions again to remember to do that.
It was a big mess though with sealant everywhere. I spent at least an hour cleaning and wiping it all up as best I could.
The clearance on mine from the center plate is very minimal. Maybe .25 inches. Not much room for error on that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...60176989f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d30c7bd922.jpg
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Nice! Yeah that 5200 was very deceiving. At first you think its like every RTV type sealant but as soon at that pipe hits the transom its a goo fest. Anyone following would be wise to tape all around pipe hole, stick the pipe in where you want and then cut the tape with a razor blade to reveal where the exhaust goes. that way you keep 5200 for smearing all over the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by htfit
I ended up using the 1/4" bolts. I got the exhaust in fairly snug and waited few day to final torque ( which was little more than an exercise in how to I get a wrench on it.) Then squirmed the hose on the best I could. There was still 5200 oozing. I hope it is Sealed.
Clearances were much the same as you had. There is a not a lot of room between pipe and wake plate.
UPDATE: Yesterday I noticed we were taking on water around the surf pipe. I put my boat on the lift and noticed that my top bolt somehow broke. The other bolts were tight. This winter I may need to bore out the holes to 1/4 inch instead of 3/16" SS machine screws. I will also to a head head bolt too instead of Phillips.
I had the same thing happen and replaced with 1/4" bolts. Same thing but mine was bottom right bolt but it cracked my weld.
Been chatting with Larry, and he has updated the install with a composite board for extra strength on the transom.
EDIT:Quote:
Originally Posted by jcredible
Do they sell an upgrade yet?
Also did you need to remove the pipe and reseal? or Just use the bigger bolts?
This is happening enough that I believe we may need to take it up with FAE themselves. My top bolt also broke last year and I replaced all three this past winter with 1/4"" SS. Still a constant but not dangerous leak into the bilge at the transom exhaust protrusion. I've tried extra "crank-down" and silicon and don't understand why the water intrusion is still occurring. It also looks like a weld crack where the pipe meets the FAE flange. Could be surface only but definitely a bit worrisome.
I would take it up with Larry @ FAE, he has been responsive to me and will make it right. It is essentially a piece of Trex composite board to give the bolts some more structural components to grab onto.
I attempted a cheesy fix with the boat on the lift. Futile effort. The boat is leaking bad. In a shining display of brilliance,I opted to use a paint brush to get paint the 5200 around the flange. The boat was more than happy to leak afterward. Today, I am going pull the boat and remove the exhaust. I am pretty far from happy.
^^ Ouch ^^
Did you wait for a while to allow the 5200 to partially set before you bolted down the exhaust? If you didn’t and just. Bolted it down immediately and pushed all the sealant out, then it could be why it’s leaking.
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i definitely let mine partially set for 2-4 hours....and both times I pulled off the pipe there was a 1-2mm bead on the surface area of the flange.
It was a bugger to get the pipe off, but with a broken bolt it still had enough play for a small leak. The pipe was not coming off with the 5200 but enough play to allow water to leak in slowly.
HOLD! You had to pull your FAE twice?Quote:
Originally Posted by jcredible
Yes, the #12 snapped on one location, then the new 1/4" bolts i installed snapped in the same spot.(Only 1 bolt) I reached out to Larry @ FAE and he has given me feedback on a new install procedure with a composite board backing to provide additional depth on the transom.
I am hopeful that it will work...but going to attempt it in the off season as sick of losing downtime this summer!
Ok, I pretty annoyed right now. Got off the phone with Larry. He is a wonderful guy and wants to support his customers, don't get me wrong; but it seems to me this Exhaust was not well thought out and they are failing all over the place and not only with Moomba boats. It was suggested that I remove FAE and install old exhaust with silicone until end of season.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcredible
Except....
I threw it away.
Cause....
Who needs that piece of shit lying around when you have a ballin new surf exhaust?
For those following a long, I would say do this at your own peril. I would not. There is way too much moment arm stress on the exhaust, and your new expensive boat was built with thinnest cheapest transom known to man. 1" or so thick. Plus the exhaust only penetrates the hull 3inches.
What do I do now?
1. Go buy silicone and goop the shit out it and hope it holds?
2. Remove exhaust, reinstall and wait 7days for 5200 to cure?
3. Go but on the exhaust flange and temp it back in?
Buy stock exhaust and put it on.
Correct me if I am wrong, but if surf pipe fails, boat sinks?
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I would do the following:
1) Use 5200 Fast Cure
2) Upgrade to 1/4" bolts or 5/16" bolts if you can.
3) Bore out holes to support it.
The 5200 Fast Cure sets way quicker (I used it when re-installing the factory exhaust flange). I think original 5200 needs 48 hours above water level....and continues to cure below water line too...but seeing as you have a lift...not as big of an issue.
Larry - yes...if the weld breaks(and it probably will if you keep snapping bolts)....then it will take on more water than you want.
Yeah, My hand is forced. Wait 2 weeks for the stock fiberglass one or just reinstall what we got. I will be pulling the boat and going with 1/4 " SS Hex Bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcredible
EDIT:Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
We pulled the boat. While driving to the launch I noticed very little water in the bilge. It was a hot day, we had beer on ice, and the lake was smooth. We ran to the store and I am ashamed to say.... bought some clear flex seal and slathered that all around. Everything seemed fine until my 1250# bag came apart. We dewatered the boat, and kept going, but could never tell if we were leaking again or not.
Stock exhaust or stock surf pipe?Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
I post this on FB. I am done. will be ordering stock exhaust tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6uZQrtCDmkQuote:
Originally Posted by MJHSupra
Failure zone makes sense.
The pipe is a long lever arm and the greatest load would be right where it failed.
The stock surf pipe has a hydro foil around it.
Haven’t spent much time thinking about the hydrofoil flange, but my assumption is that it counters the loading or dampens vibration.
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I was looking for one on my SL. Priced the aftermarket and talked to my buddy at the dealer. My buddy's response about 2-3 months ago" "buy a stock one".Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
Didn't think much about it until more of these stories were popping up on social media this summer.
I'm sure the stock ones have some issues too . . .
Wow..not good. I had mine crack and sent it back to be repaired. I told them that he really need to gusset the pipe around the flange but they said it wasn’t necessary. I’m a mechanical engineer (with a design patent), what would I know?Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
Repaired unit is holding up fine so far. I kept my stock outlet......just in case.
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I’m not a mechanical engineer. But IMHO, the Transom is a shamefully weak design and the Moment arm of that pipe is way too much. I noticed this when I installed it, but thought that maybe the drag was lower that I thought it would be and that these folks had it all sorted out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi
Did the transom fail?Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow
If not, the pipe design or material is the problem. Also an M.E. here trying to analyze this break.
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The Transom appears to be fine as far as I can tell. The weld between Stainless flange and Pipe failed.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
I experienced the same issue with bolt failures (upgrades bolts) and cracked flanges until I broke out a saw and shortened the down pipe. No issues after that.
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The new pipe from the factory does not hang as low, weld looks a bit better. Tech says it's way better design. We will see. On my third...
You cut your downpipe length? Got pics? How much shorter did you make it and on what boat?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boonejeepin
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Larry, not sure how the transom can be blamed here. Unless it’s flexing so much that it’s causing an issue, but I would expect to see stress crack if that were the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by larry_arizona
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