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  1. #11
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    First of running the bows off of channel 3 and leaving the fourth empty is not advised, it will more than likely create an instability. Second, even if it did work you won't have any balance control that way and it will sound funny up front. Third, there's no benefit as you couldn't run anything off that one channel anyway. And yeah while it does increase rms it will be split between the two speakers, so again no benefit.

    Wiring the four main cabin speakers in parallel to the two rear channels and the bow speakers off of the front two is the standard and accepted way to do it and will give you best results without issues.

    So your running two of the JL G1300 amps for the towers? Parallel wiring two speakers together should give you a 2 ohm load on those as well.

    As far as the subwoofer goes what is the rating on that? What is the amp rating for the sub? All that will determine how it's wired.

    Also, with four amps shown, how many batteries are running to power the system?
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  2. #12
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    I gotcha on the 3rd and 4th channel issue. I'm still learning some of this stuff.

    I think Dusty is actually setting up a system similiar to the one i am, which pieces of this past summer.

    I run 4 amps; 2 g1300 for towers, 1 for sub, 1 for in boat. I use 2 batteries. I was orginally thought i would need to run 3 batteries but was told 2 would be fine unless i went to part cove and wanted to play music ALL day long, which i dont.

    Like i said im learning alot of this stuff as i go, but dont mono amps pull less current than a multi channel amp? I had the impression, after talking to earmark, that it was an efficient way to run the towers.
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  3. #13
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    Just my opinion but I would guess it all depends on who you talk to and the equipment you use, the power they consume and how you use your system. I installed an Exile Harpoon 1000w 2 channel for my tower speakers and along with the Kicker ZX700.5 i was running I also never drained my stereo battery and we are known to float a few hours at least on each outing.

    Whether a mono amp draws less current i couldn't say but i would also think it depends on the power output of them too. The G1300 is rated 150w @ 4 and 300w @ 2 which isn't all that much in the scheme of things so yeah they probably don't draw as much juice as a large 4 or 5 channel amp. BUT i would also say that depends on the brand as well, some of the new gear out is quite efficient even in the larger amps.
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  4. #14
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    I have read that amp quality can be a factor. I am going to end up running 2 of the JL's, an alpine, and stock kenwood. The stock Kenwood is the only one im concerned with quality wise (considering replacing with 6 channel jl). I just dont know alot about kenwood.

    Dusty, it sounds like the wiring part is solved, with the exception of maybe the sub? Now its time to get working.
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  5. #15
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    Jan 2008
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    dusty, post of some install pics.did you get the v2 krypts?. with two jl it should sound great.
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  6. #16
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    Dec 2006
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    Tigard, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by dusty2221 View Post
    Alright, So if I stick with the original plan, which was to make one run up the tower, (the 4 conductor 12g that KG linked to), then join inside the Roswell as shown, that creates a 2ohm...correct? What I drew is running 2 + and 2 -, then before the speaker, adding a connection to run to the other. Make sense?

    And Kg, is this what you are referring to for cabins? Does 6 speakers running to the amp like this equal 2ohms per speaker?

    Sorry for the silly paint drawings, but I am a visual learner, seeing it in text vs pic is night and day for me.
    Dusty,

    A better way to wire the speakers is to run the neg from the amp to the neg on speaker 1, the pos from the amp to the pos of speaker 2, then connect the negs of speakers 1 & 2 together, and the pos of speakers 1 & 2 together. This still presents a 2 ohm load to the amp, and you avoid all the splicing work making for a cleaner install and less signal loss. Below is a sketch (I'm not the Paint expert that you are )

    This is also how you should wire your DVC sub. Just treat each voice coil like a separate speaker and wire it as shown in my little sketch.

    This also applies to the in boat speakers where you are wiring two speakers per channel.

    Also, below is a link that I found to be very informative and I think you will too.

    http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html



    Hope that helps.

    Al
    Last edited by cab13367; 12-11-2010 at 05:45 PM.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razzman View Post
    As far as the subwoofer goes what is the rating on that? What is the amp rating for the sub? All that will determine how it's wired.

    Also, with four amps shown, how many batteries are running to power the system?

    Hey Razz, here are the ratings for the Sub amp I have, it is a Planet Audio AC1500:
    Anarchy Series Monoblock Car Amplifier
    RMS Power Rating:
    * 2 ohms: 1100 watts x 1 chan.
    Max power output:
    * 2 ohms: 1500 watts x 1 chan.

    And as far as the sub, it is the Kicker CVR with these ratings:
    10" CompVR Component Subwoofer
    Power Handling:
    * Peak: 800 watts
    * RMS: 400 watts
    Dual 4 ohm model

    So based on that combination, what would the preferred method be?

    As far as batteries, my boat just has the dual setup. During the day, we keep the perko set to both batts, and any extended period that we float I always switch to only the accessory battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by jmvotto View Post
    dusty, post of some install pics.did you get the v2 krypts?. with two jl it should sound great.
    Yes, the V2 will be the end result on the tower, with some polyfill and matt lining the bottoms of the cans.

    Quote Originally Posted by cab13367 View Post
    Dusty,

    A better way to wire the speakers is to run the neg from the amp to the neg on speaker 1, the pos from the amp to the pos of speaker 2, then connect the negs of speakers 1 & 2 together, and the pos of speakers 1 & 2 together. This still presents a 2 ohm load to the amp, and you avoid all the splicing work making for a cleaner install and less signal loss. Below is a sketch (I'm not the Paint expert that you are )

    This is also how you should wire your DVC sub. Just treat each voice coil like a separate speaker and wire it as shown in my little sketch.

    This also applies to the in boat speakers where you are wiring two speakers per channel.

    Also, below is a link that I found to be very informative and I think you will too.

    http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html



    Hope that helps.

    Al
    Thanks cab, the reason I was planning on running a dedicated wire to each + and - on the speakers is because I have 100ft of 12g 4 conductor speaker wire with an outer jacket covering all 4 lines. So, my plan, the wire has red, green, black, and white, was to just make one run which would include all the wires for both speakers. At the speaker, I planned to hook the red and black to one speaker, then the green and white to the other + and -, and back at the amp wire the two positives together and same with the grounds. So it still gets a 2ohm presence at the amp, but each speaker has it's "own" line all the way to the amp. make sense?



    Thanks again for all the input guys, Im learning as I go, and this has turned in to a SERIOUS overhaul. EVERYTHING is being pulled out and being replaced with new equipment, wires, etc. Ill post some install pics once I get closer to being completed.....

    Again, thanks for the feedback, and I'll continue to take the advice you guys can give!

  8. #18
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    Here ya go Dusty, i was going to explain but a picture is worth a 1000 words right?!
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  9. #19
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    You said it best brother! Thanks for the pic! I'm very visual, so you have no idea how much I appreciate it. So based on wiring it like that, which is not how it is currently wired, I will jsut need to "turn down" the amp as to not completely over power that sub. Correct?

    I almost feel guilty posting all these Supra questions over here, but this seems to be still alive, Supra is dead lately!

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dusty2221 View Post
    You said it best brother! Thanks for the pic! I'm very visual, so you have no idea how much I appreciate it. So based on wiring it like that, which is not how it is currently wired, I will jsut need to "turn down" the amp as to not completely over power that sub. Correct?

    I almost feel guilty posting all these Supra questions over here, but this seems to be still alive, Supra is dead lately!
    Yeah i'd definately turn down the gain. To be on the safe side i'd probably start around 40% and see what you get.
    2007 Mobius LSV

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