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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    251

    Default Updated Diagram

    Ok. Thanks for the info. I revised the diagram to wire the towers in parallel.

    Any other issues?
    Is the stock speaker wire going to be an issue?
    Is the gauge of the power wires sufficient?

    It seems like it will be difficult to with the speakers in parallel through the tower.

    Thanks again for all the help.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    251

    Default

    Added Diagram
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,017

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bhowell View Post
    Ok. Thanks for the info. I revised the diagram to wire the towers in parallel.

    Any other issues?
    Is the stock speaker wire going to be an issue?
    Is the gauge of the power wires sufficient?

    It seems like it will be difficult to with the speakers in parallel through the tower.

    Thanks again for all the help.
    Revised diagram looks good. You could also just connect the pos and neg from the amp to the first speaker, then jumper over to the second speaker (as shown for your cabin speakers). Not "textbook" but I doubt there's any noticeable difference. This will make it a little easier to run the wires inside the tower.

    I would run high quality 12 gauge to the towers since you are potentially pushing 500W RMS thru each pair of wires. Also, be sure to solder all splices for the best possible electrical connection.

    Consider replacing all the stock speaker wire with quality 16 gauge - I did. I think the stock is cheap 18 gauge.

    Power wire gauges look good. Make sure your power distribution block fuse is at least equal to the combined amp rating of your three amps.

    If you have not bought the sub and sub amp yet, why not go all Exile for a fully integrated look? Exile makes very nice subs and amps to drive them.

    If you have the patience and are willing to do a little extra work, consider a completely stealth install where ALL the wiring past the tower pivot point is inside the tower, i.e., no exposed wires. The resulting clean look is worth the effort. See my post below:

    https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=12976

    Consider running two stereo batteries and using some sort of ACR set up such as the Blue See Add A Battery. This will require it's own wiring diagram

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cab13367 View Post
    Make sure your power distribution block fuse is at least equal to the combined amp rating of your three amps.
    The distribution block has an inline fuse for each of the four connections. These should be at the amp rating for each correct?


    Quote Originally Posted by cab13367 View Post
    If you have not bought the sub and sub amp yet, why not go all Exile for a fully integrated look? Exile makes very nice subs and amps to drive them.

    Consider running two stereo batteries and using some sort of ACR set up such as the Blue See Add A Battery. This will require it's own wiring diagram
    Sub and amp are already in the boat from the previous owner. A second battery and a perco switch have also already been installed. I am removing the tower speakers and amp from the previous owner's stereo to put this in.

    Thanks for the help!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,017

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bhowell View Post
    The distribution block has an inline fuse for each of the four connections. These should be at the amp rating for each correct?
    Correct. Just make sure each fuse is at least equal to or a little larger than the amp's fuse rating.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

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