Winterize 2007 Outback

[deerfield]

Finished the collector today. Used PVC pieces to create a means of capturing (without a mess) and recirculating antifreeze through the engine. Tomorrow I will adapt a feeder line from a capture tank (probably a twenty gallon bucket positioned under the collector end) to the raw water impeller. By letting the engine idle and come up to operating temperature I hope to also get antifreeze through the lines and core of the heater. Also will change oil and filter. Have not made up my mind whether to pull the engine block drain plugs and empty lines, or leave everything intact for the winter. Will post more pics tomorrow.

[jmvotto]

Deerfield, I am impressed.....

[jester]

That is a good idea. Nice work. When this spring comes i really want to hear how cold it gets and how well it worked.

[jjerrod]

why would you want to drain the engine block for the winter if you have had antifreeze in it?

[sandm]

second that. if you are going to run antifreeze thru the block, just leave it all winter and flush it out in the spring when you launch the boat for the first time.

[mmandley]

I realy like your idea man. Nice and clean looking. I do have to say im a bit worried about the back pressure your going to create on the engine. Even at idle it will take a bit to warm up, and you have the correct dyameter pipe for the exhaust but your taking a 3inch into a 1inch along with the water.

Are you worried that the amount of water exiting the pipe and draining into the small hole of about 1inch isnt going to choke the engine?

Might have been better to just run the full dyameter pipping right to your 20gal bucket? Then it would be much more like the atmosphere its used to being in while idling in a lake?

Im not knocking your idea or the system your build its tight looking to me im just asking because these are the concerns i have looking at it.

[deerfield]

UPDATE: Ran the engine till it reached operating temperature. Took no more or less time than sitting in lake water. As mmandley noted, there is a reduction in the PVC size. It starts at 4" and goes to 2", so back pressure was not an issue. After reaching operating temperature, I shut off the engine, emptied the catch basin, and filled it with 3 gallons of non-toxic antifreeze. Started the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes. Ran the heater for confirmation that the engine thermostat was open allowing antifreeze to circulate through the heater core as well as the engine.

How do I remove the flame arrestor? Need to do that in order to fog the engine. For the life of me I could not get it off the intake manifold neck.

[KurtL]

Deerfield, Great idea! How did you connect the pvc to the exhaust? 3 gallons was enough?

Really a great idea. I just spent $412 to have my dd oil changed and winterized. Winterization and summerization was close to $700 with just one oil change.

[viking]

Deerfield, Great idea! How did you connect the pvc to the exhaust? 3 gallons was enough?

Really a great idea. I just spent $412 to have my dd oil changed and winterized. Winterization and summerization was close to $700 with just one oil change.

Kurt,
What do you do to have it "summerized'? Isn't it usually ready to go in the spring after a winterization and oil change/service?

OH, and Deerfield - Genius idea. I might be doing that next season!!
Thanx for the pics

[newty]

Looks like a great idea! I was a little skeptical about the impeller pulling water from the basin, but looks like it worked. Again nice job!