2008 LSV E-Z Cruise issues

[tazz3069]

After I was having problems with mine, I stopped using it. Big PITA. I really do not think that it is supposed to work like it is supposed too. I bought the PP Star Gazer and can not be happier with it. I now use that plate, with new switches to operate all my LED's in the boat. Now I know it will work for What it is intended for.

[08LSV]

Thank all of you for your help with my situation.

I have also experienced problems similar to "2008 Xlv" although not as severe or regular. I wish the dealer would have taken me a little more serious.... But I will have to spend some more time trying to figure it out.

Has anyone ever installed PP themselves to save on labor from the dealer or is the amount negligible enough just to pay the dealer and avoid the hassle?

So they really call it a marriage saver? If so I think I may just have to break down and get the PP so that my girlfriend will be less freaked out by all the things she is trying to pay attention to while pulling me. She got kinda pissed last time out tryin to maintain the speed with the E-Z cruise messing up..

[moombadaze]

For me my issue with cruise is that when it is engaged and im reaccelerating (after picking up a fallen rider) it will surge bad when it reengages,-in fact my wife doesnt like for me to leave it on for this reason.

[Mikey]

The marriage saver comment is quite true and can make a learning drivers job a lot easier.Someone with a little boating common sence and a quick rundown on how or where to set and away you go Wakeboarding or skiing at the desired speed you want. No hassles and You and your driver are happy. Best thing i've added to my boat that i didn't get from the factory.

[jccimetiere]

Got my 08LSV a few weeks ago. I have 40h now. The cruise control works perfectly for wakesurfing (speed set to 10-12 mph). I set the speed (turn cruise on) give a little more throttle and go. When the rider fall, I go idle, pick him up re-engage then goes back nicely to set speed.
When wakeboarding, it is not as consistent. Most of the time it works OK and maintain the speed OK. The +/- button is slow to produce effect, but works. When I got idle, to pick up the fallen rider and go ahead, the boat speeds up ok to 12/13 and then slowly (very slowly) goes back to initial speed (usually around 20/22).
And sometime... for no reason it just acts weird: loosing a lot of speed when I turn, +/- not doing anything and suddendly you're going too fast/slow!

And finally, I've noticed that when it's a bit windy and bumpy it's far less accurate than when the water is glass.

Bottom line: cruise is not Perfect Pass. I'm seriously considering upgrading.
Any tips? Should I ask the dealer (I'm not super happy about them ) or got get one from perfectpass.com and install it myself?

[gcnettl]

PP is the only way to go. It is not like the 1k you will spend will be money that you throw away. It will be an option that you can list when you sell your boat, and in turn, you will get your 1k back out of it. Actually, you will get more than a grand back out of it when you sell it.

Perfect pass can be run in RPM mode or by speed. It uses a paddle wheel speed pickup, which is easily broken, for setting speed to mph. In turn however, I always keep a spare, and they are not expensive. (35 bucks) The only way that you break it is by incorrectly loading your boat at the landing, the tiny wheels strike your boat trailer and simply break. If you are loading in a calm area then it will not be a problem, and I have only broke mine once in four years.

PP comes with an installation manual, and the guys at perfect pass are more than willing to help with any question that you may have. If perfect pass ever fails you, simply give them a call and they will do all they can to help you troubleshoot and diagnose your problem. You can order parts directly from them, and that is a plus to me as well.

The basic parts of the perfect pass set up are a paddle wheel thru hull sensor, a control module, a display, and a servo motor (used to increase and decrease throttle).

Now back to the physicist. In controlling throttle by the speed of the boat, the paddlewheel is designed to measure straight line speed, it spins inline with the boat. When you turn, you know have two components of velocity, x and y. Since the paddlewheel measures only one direction, inline with the boat (X direction), it will not pickup the y component of the velocity. The speed (X) will drop when turning and the speed (Y) will increase. The boat only sees the change in (X) so it accelerates to compensate for the change. Upon straitening up, the velocity is now mostly in the direction of x (inline with the boat) so the boat will see a great speed in result of conservation of momentum from the acceleration through the turn, and the boat will have to slow down to the cruising speed.

In RPM mode, the boat will hold the engine to a defined RPM, so in going through a turn the boat would keep a constant RPM, but as forces on the hull change, the speed will change. However this speed won't change as much as if you were in MPH mode.

[maxpower220]

When I got idle, to pick up the fallen rider and go ahead, the boat speeds up ok to 12/13 and then slowly (very slowly) goes back to initial speed (usually around 20/22).
And sometime... for no reason it just acts weird: loosing a lot of speed when I turn, +/- not doing anything and suddendly you're going too fast/slow!

Bottom line: cruise is not Perfect Pass. I'm seriously considering upgrading.
Any tips? Should I ask the dealer (I'm not super happy about them ) or got get one from perfectpass.com and install it myself?

My cruise works just as slowly sometimes when setting 18-22 mph on a re-engagement. Not sure why, it works quickly at slalom speeds (which is mostly what I do).

Order PP from PP, Inboards only, or Skier to Skier. PP is a plug and play. I would recommend that you get PP Stargazer since you will be spending the money.