Salt Water?

[zegm]

I agree, you must feel comfortable with your dealer! Who knows what your local guy might tell you now since he has already mislead you to his own benefit. I don't understand why if he has a boat in stock that you like why he doesn't give you a price to install a FWC system unless its a factory only issue. I would drive to Orlando! The best place to learn about the dealers is from other guys like us on this post. I drove to Atlanta just to meet the dealer and they turned out to be Great People!!!

[gadalar]

OK Guys... here is the update. I spoke to another dealer and he basically agreed on the fact the the FW cooling system is not absolutely necesary and that it is very hard for salt water (provided you flush the engine) to damage the engine block. Even w/ the FW cooling system you still need to flush the transmission and other components.

Additionaly i was also given good feedback from other deler about the deler i am in touch with. I was even told that if i wanted to look at an 07 closeout that they would be more than happy to offer some, but that if I was looking for an 08... they basically recommended to go with my local delaer.

Furthermore... i was also told not to worry about the delaer for engine issues since any Indmar delaer could eventually honor the engine warranty.

In short, it is now just a matter of final pricing, i believe I am in good enough hands.

Thank you for all the help. I also sent an email to Skiers Choice with all of my concerns and am awaiting a reply... will keep you updated.

[zegm]

I am happy you feel better about your dealer. However, make sure to ask SC what their thoughts are about the FWC system. Or in other words why this is an option if the dealers don't think it is needed. I work as an engineer for the US Navy and I have to deal with salt water designs everyday! 316SS, 17-4PH, Nitronic 50 all good stainless steels that are used in every aspect of Marine design. One metal that is never used in salt water due to its corrosion issues is cast iron. Unless you are talking about the junk that comes on many trailers in the form of drum brakes which usually don't last a year. Now ask your dealer what that engine block is made from. There is no doubt that you are going to have to wash that boat off everytime you use it but a little extra protection is not a bad thing. My wife and I are debating the FWC option when we order a boat but my wife (the electrical engineer) says that this boat will NEVER see salt water so we aren't ordering it. Ok the ski boat will be hers and the Proline is mine.

[gadalar]

I did ask them on email but still have not gotten an answer...

I appreciate all of this feedback, especially from someone with experience.

How would you relate your comments with my previous boat for example?... It ran on saltwater for 4 years. It is a mercruiser engine, that i really dont think is salt water specific.

As I understand it the FWC system only relates to the cooling of the engine block... right?

[zegm]

I have a feeling that you really have your heart set on a boat for a good price. To relate to your previous experience I cannot say as I know nothing of the history of your maintenance or repairs. I know the issues I have with my big twin engine Proline. What it really comes down to is I have to do much more work after using this boat to remove salt water than I like. Would my 30 year old MasterCraft survived salt water NO. Without FWC system the incoming water cools the block, the tranny cooler and then the exhaust. It does not go into the transmission. With FWC you are cooling the block, I cannot be sure how they do the transmission cooler but the exhaust still gets salt water and the manifold risers will be the first thing to go. If you rinse the boat out and flush the engine everytime it Will be better than if you negelected doing this task. However over time this engine WILL have more corrosion than one with FWC. How will this effect you depends on how long you desire to keep the boat. Less than 5 years you might not notice it except for the manifolds. When it is time to sell the boat you will also find that it will have reduced value and might be harder to sell. Really you can go both ways and have a great time, but one way will lead to less money in your pocket in the long run.

[gadalar]

Ok. Thanks again for the help... I really dont think i will keep the boat more than maybe 5 or 6 years... additionally i will have it on a wash plan that not only washes the boat every time I use it, but they flush the engine. With the Mobius i do plan to flush it personally as meny times as possible, but even if I do not use it the marina flushes the engine at least twice a week.

I think i feel confortable with the flush kit. All im waiting for is confirmation from Skiers Choice that Salt water does not void the warranty... I will keep you posted.

Thx.

[moomba_armada]

Hello

I have an 2007 Outback V, my first powerboat. It stays at the dock during 4 months in the summer (just one summer till now though). It has a half system, closed cooling system for the block and a heat exchanger for the rest. I flush my engine and gelcoat EVERYTIME I run the boat. I don´t know how long it will stay fine but, why to take risks.
Salt does "eat" everything...but the only I´ve noticed is the corrosion of the metal parts, hinges, metal squads screws that fix to the floor of the boat (bilge emerging), and some rusty clamps and engine mounts..not really anything serious after first summer.
I do use WD 40 to spray a bit on to all these parts, and plan to use a product to passivate them all next season.
Carpet is perfect till now, and I don´t flush it often, just try that people don´t use shoes on board.
You have to keep in mind the zinc anodes for rudder and shaft, and change them every year.
Also the antifouling paint if you don´t want to be a running snails nursery...
I think it wouldn´t increase the price too much for SC to upgrade all the bolts, hinges and problematic parts to top quality INOX, at least for knowing salt water boat orders, I would pay for it pleased.
If anyone know any other helpful tips for saltwater, please, feel free to contact me.

Best regards for you lot.

[JoeTechie]

This has been discussed many times here... but Larry from Indmar put it best:

Engine wise if you are going to use it more than 25% of the time in salt water, fresh water (closed system) cooling is a must. If the use is more occaisional you can get by with thorough flushing with fresh water after use. Install a Perko Flush Pro so you can hook a hose up directly to the engine ... I don't recommend a Fake-a-Lake ... they dont seal well over the water pickup and can suck air into the cooling water. The part of the engine, at least internally, that is most suscetible to damage is the intake manifold. It is made from aluminum and has a water crossover passage that will eventually have corrosion issues.

Externally, you have to wash the engine off with fresh water, especially unpainted parts like the motor and transmission mounts. After it dries, spray it with some anti-corrosion spray. WD 40 works ok but there are probably better anti-corrosion sprays out there.

Also read these very helpful posts:

https://forum.moomba.com/viewtopic.php?t=3765

https://forum.moomba.com/viewtopic.php?t=3300


You have been informed.



-J

[Engine Nut]

Thanks for posting that. It saved me from retyping it. The more I read through this thread, the more upsetI got. No dealer worth his "salt" would tell a customer it is OK to run a boat in salt water that doesn't have a fresh water cooling system. If it were me, I wouldn't buy anything but a salt water series engine. These engines are equipped with full fresh water cooling, top mount starters and lots of stanless steel and other corosion resistant materials.

Corrosion damage is not covered by Indmar's warranty.

This has been discussed many times here... but Larry from Indmar put it best:

Engine wise if you are going to use it more than 25% of the time in salt water, fresh water (closed system) cooling is a must. If the use is more occaisional you can get by with thorough flushing with fresh water after use. Install a Perko Flush Pro so you can hook a hose up directly to the engine ... I don't recommend a Fake-a-Lake ... they dont seal well over the water pickup and can suck air into the cooling water. The part of the engine, at least internally, that is most suscetible to damage is the intake manifold. It is made from aluminum and has a water crossover passage that will eventually have corrosion issues.

Externally, you have to wash the engine off with fresh water, especially unpainted parts like the motor and transmission mounts. After it dries, spray it with some anti-corrosion spray. WD 40 works ok but there are probably better anti-corrosion sprays out there.

Also read these very helpful posts:

https://forum.moomba.com/viewtopic.php?t=3765

https://forum.moomba.com/viewtopic.php?t=3300


You have been informed.



-J

[zegm]

Engine NuT! I was happy to see that someone else was sharing my pain and frustration. And I hope SC see's that the dealers are still more interested in making a dollar rather than being honest and caring about their customers. I hope that Gadalar gets his boat and for a good price but I hate to see him mislead.