12' XLV Replacing drive shaft

[johntmoseley606]

So I did a thing. Broken drive shaft. Didn't hit anything. Went to pull up my buddy and it turned loose. Engine rpms spiked for a quick second.

When I first bought the boat (660 hours) I found that the 4 coupler bolts were loose. So alignment was checked and bolts were tightened. My shaft packing wasn't to tight because I have noticed it dripping a little more than normal (replacing the wax rope packing was on my to-do list).

Anyways, any tips on repairing this. It seems pretty straight forward. Once the vdrive is out and prop is pulled the drive shaft should be able to slide right out from inside the boat right? Will the fuel tank need to be removed. For anybody that has done this job I'd love to hear any tips. I'm about to start labeling hose connections, bolt locations and electrical connectors

This is a 2012 Moomba Mobius XLV (vdrive)

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[Holdmybeer]

You shouldn't have to pull the vdrive on the tank.

Unbolt the coupler and save for re-install.

Loosen and disconnect your packing seal - I would replace the whole unit with a dripless.

Remove prop from shaft

Shaft should slide past the rudder and out.

Check shaft bearings in strut possibly replace

Install new shaft

Install new dripless seal

Install coupler and check specs with gauge.
Align as needed

Install prop

Drink beer.

[VA LSV]

It's a tight working space but very doable. There is a post on here that I followed when I replaced the shaft packing with a dripless seal in my boat.
The last step is very important plus you can afford more beer after doing it yourself.

[johntmoseley606]

You shouldn't have to pull the vdrive on the tank.

Unbolt the coupler and save for re-install.

Loosen and disconnect your packing seal - I would replace the whole unit with a dripless.

Remove prop from shaft

Shaft should slide past the rudder and out.

Check shaft bearings in strut possibly replace

Install new shaft

Install new dripless seal

Install coupler and check specs with gauge.
Align as needed

Install prop

Drink beer.

Well I agree but the drive shafts I was looking at on waterskis.com are the shaft with coupler pressed on. They mention not to remove the coupler. Where are yall buying your parts from?

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[johntmoseley606]

It's a tight working space but very doable. There is a post on here that I followed when I replaced the shaft packing with a dripless seal in my boat.
The last step is very important plus you can afford more beer after doing it yourself.

Haha 100%!!

What dripless did you go with?

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[Holdmybeer]

I went with Glide dripless

[Holdmybeer]

Well I agree but the drive shafts I was looking at on waterskis.com are the shaft with coupler pressed on. They mention not to remove the coupler. Where are yall buying your parts from?

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This is your choice, but I'm marking the shaft and coupler with a sharpie and separating.

No way I would pull the tank for this. The new dripless comes with an install guide for pushing the shaft up through the hull not down.

[VA LSV]

I went with the OJ dripless seal.

Skidim.com, skiboatpartsonline.com, myinboardmarine.com all sell the A.R.E shaft system. The coupler is self centering and is secured with a nut on the end and a set screw on the side even though it is a taper fit. Not a big deal to remove and reinstall it.

[Holdmybeer]

My 2015 is keyed at the coupler.
Not sure how you could mess it up and not get it to align back to design.

[johntmoseley606]

Just to update. I called elberts and spoke with Brian. Very helpful and good pricing. Bought some tools that are designed to remove the coupler. It's an ARE Shaft. Glide dripless shaft seal will be going in too.

I called and spoke with glide and they recommended going in from the back of the boat so that is the route I'm taking. Will try to post updates as I feel like there isn't much info on this job