Boat Build and Sound System

[brad460]

^^this..

I will probably get roasted for this, but I am kind of a cheap azz sometimes and not loud stereo kind of people.

Our Max came with the four stock Wetsounds speakers and this spring I added a 5 channel Skar amp and 10” Skar sub box. My expectations were somewhat low, but holy crap let me tell you- it sounds excellent! Trust me, I’ve heard plenty of stereo systems in my life. I am blown away at how good the system now sounds. Note: I have about ~$300 into the whole build.

I’d put this stereo up against just about any other of same sub size/#of speakers..

[Josh828]

I did the math on adding them myself and from the factory you basically just pay for the speakers with no labor.
So if you are going to do wet sounds absolutely do it from the factory.
Also I blew my REV 10 tower speaker, covered under warranty and saved me the $1400 or what ever they are

[WildH]

So I'm one of .0001 that is picky. Maybe too picky and some might call me a snob, but I like a certain sound. Wet sounds speakers push mids and have metal tweeters. To me it sounds unnatural and harsh. But....some people love that and it's fine. I personally prefer a soft dome or textile material like JL uses.

This said, I went with the premium WS package for the same others stated and because I didn't want to run speaker wire through towers etc and that labor cost is high on aftermarket installs. Figured I could always swap drivers which is super easy.

With the motor running and it being open air, it's a tough environment for hifi audio! ��

[MLA]

Also I blew my REV 10 tower speaker, covered under warranty and saved me the $1400 or what ever they are

Just an FYI, IF and I mean IF someone happened to blow ALL three audio components of a wet sounds pod, a rev-10 can be rebuilt for less then $400.

[MLA]

I’d put this stereo up against just about any other of same sub size/#of speakers..

Im yur Huckleberry!

So you are using the same speaker, so matching the amp wattage is easy. Most woofers of the same size and alignment (enclosure type) driven with the same wattage, will have about the same output.

So, in a marathon, that class-A/B skar amp will peter out of battery voltage in half the time a class-D amp will. On a hot summer day, that skar amp stands a much greater chance of going into thermal protect mode.

If we match the wattage to the speakers, your skar v's my amp choice, the speaker will sound and perform the same. Same with the woofer. They may sound a little different, but their dB will be about the same.

Will my amp cost more? Sure! Its modern tech v's early 2000's. But it consumes less battery, takes up less space and is not an open chassis thats fan cooled and drawing humid air across it all the time.

In closing, I do not see that skar offers a marine woofer and a marine enclosure. So that carpet covered MDF box will be showing the effects of absorbing the humid air by season 2. Any woofer with a paper-based cone, will do the same.

[j.mo]

I’m with MLA.
The stereo, imo is no place to skimp on the boat. As important as the engine, I’d say.

Factory installed is easy, but I find that you have more options to put together something better, for around the same money doing it in your own if you really want to do it.

It does add up quick, we’re around $17k into ours. Which doesn’t seem to really go all that far these days when it gets down to all of the components including wiring and batteries.

I say go for it after the fact, and if they have a tower prep option for it to be pre wired but bare, take that. That’s your biggest hassle.


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[WildH]

I’m with MLA.
The stereo, imo is no place to skimp on the boat. As important as the engine, I’d say.

Factory installed is easy, but I find that you have more options to put together something better, for around the same money doing it in your own if you really want to do it.

It does add up quick, we’re around $17k into ours. Which doesn’t seem to really go all that far these days when it gets down to all of the components including wiring and batteries.

I say go for it after the fact, and if they have a tower prep option for it to be pre wired but bare, take that. That’s your biggest hassle.


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I'd be interested in details on your set up.

[sandm]

hearing over and over you must use marine gear..

I totally agree when it comes to the box and speakers(not that much to invest in poly cones over paper anymore-do your homework first). spend money or time and ensure you build a good box that can withstand the elements OR be prepared to replace it every couple of years from wood moisture expansion.

for the life of me tho I can't understand the electronics side. I have used RF power series in the supra, 2 boats using arc audio(which iirc uses the same topography as WS just not coated) and another boat using JL non-marine from prior owner. never had an issue with any of them and if you research the go-fast industry, they have been using car audio gear for years and years. maybe I was lucky but I view it more as manufacturers figuring out a way to increase margins to a market with deeper pockets than some car audio guys. I get that you dump a wet towel on an arc or fosgate it might not last but all my installs had amps mounted off the floor and away from wet towels/lifejackets and most wakeboat installs are similar in nature.

I would bet a lunch that the amps installed in trunks of daily driver cars in the south see a LOT more moisture and humidity than any of the jl/arc amps in my last 2 boats based on being here in vegas with an average humidity level of +/-10% even on the water.

I get that manufacturers are going to use marine gear to ensure they are "idiot proof" and keep warranty claims down but for those that understand what we are buying and how to use them properly, good car audio gear can last just as long if installed properly at a reduced cost and offer more options than marine.

[sandm]

I did the math on adding them myself and from the factory you basically just pay for the speakers with no labor.
So if you are going to do wet sounds absolutely do it from the factory.

I'm a cheaparse and I can say I paid $725/pair for my icon8's in the last tige brand new in december 2020. dropshipped straight from wetsounds. took some shopping but that's 30% off new. boat dealers were offering $2500 installed for amp and 4 icons. I was in it $1700 for 4 icon's and a brand new arc audio ks300.2. there are ways to get deals if you want to put the time into it. factor in the sub and I was half what it would have been for a full-on system from the manuf.
and ya, I know warranty would be tough but "knock on wood", I have not ever had a warranty issue in car audio and I've done systems in over 15 vehicles and 4 boats in the last 25 years.

[Holdmybeer]

Not all but most "marine" grade amplifiers are just coated circuit boards so water cannot easily cause shorts. The class A/B vs. class D is a real thing though. Class D amplifiers do cost more but the RIO is greater since it doesn't drain batteries as easy and doesn't go into thermal protection and cut out.

You can get both amps with internal cooling fans and that would nit be recommended on the water. As for humid air, yeah that is going to happen on the water, but open air subs sound horrible and plastic boxes, even poly filled, echo to much. You are stuck using plywood and/or MDF which both will rot some day.