Dripless seal is dripping

[Zog]

My boat only had about 250 hours. Shaft was straight, but the transmission was slightly shifted, pushing the shaft to the wrong position. It isn't completely centered vertically, like yours, but is perfect horizontal. I don't know where it was connecting, but like you we had 3-5 gallons at the end of the day. I was really freaked out later in the season when we were seeing a lot of water again, but discovered a leak in one of the ballast bag fittings. Oh well.

[schwan]

The parts guy at the dealer told me that the original seal they put in was crap, that’s why he got me the glide seal instead. I think it’s pretty normal for it to not be perfect center in the housing, most important is the alignment

[Holdmybeer]

I went with Glide. Tim (owner) asked about damage also. I hope it is just wear. I guess the glide system makes up for some non-center issues but would rather not have to do this more than 1 time every 500-600 hours.
I'm changing the strut bearings for the same reason. It's already apart and this will tell me if I need to loosen motor mounts and move things. I'm planning this to be 4 hours of work. I'll report back once I'm done. YouTube makes it look simple!!!

Yep already had that page bookmarked. I checked it at current state amd it says I'm good. Hopefully when it goes back together it stays the same.

[Holdmybeer]

Update.....NEED THE PULLER...building 1 tomorrow in my shop. Holy crap that is on there.

Everything else came apart nicely and quick but man that is on there.
I marked the shaft so I know where to reinstall. New strut bearings will go in the freezer once the coupler comes off. Alignment check before removal, gap between flange was less than .003" so should be good to go.

[VA LSV]

Here's a pretty good video for replacing the shaft seal. It's a DD with a whole lot more working room than a V drive. They are using the ARE specialty tools in the video.
I used long bolts and a socket to force the coupler off. It's a taper fit so it doesn't come off easily.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERxONEpGV_M

[Holdmybeer]

Here's a pretty good video for replacing the shaft seal. It's a DD with a whole lot more working room than a V drive. They are using the ARE specialty tools in the video.
I used long bolts and a socket to force the coupler off. It's a taper fit so it doesn't come off easily.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERxONEpGV_M

I watched that video before. If only it was that easy. The needs pushed out or the coupler pulled off, either way would work. My harmonic balancer puller was close but wasn't quite wide enough. It wouldn't set straight and being keyed and tampered, it has to be a perfect straight pull.

Should be good to go once I get the tool made.

[Mxmark4]

So when measuring for your clearance, you just measure it after removing the bolts securing it to the flange? I wanted to check mine but wasnt sure on the procedure.

[Holdmybeer]

I checked mine with the bolts in and tight and got nothing.
Then I loosened the bolt but didn't remove and checked again being carefully not to "break the seal" between the 2 flanges.

The bolts were not "Hulk" tight in mine. Basic hand wrenches broke them free with ease.

[Holdmybeer]

Built the tool...took 3 minutes to mount on the couple flange took 2 pulls with a rachet and it popped. It was so easy I thought I broke something.
All replaced now. Back together and ready for testing. Come on warm weather!

Now let's see what I can do for my dead Fusion 205!