Kaiyen + 8 foot garage... almost

[TXSurf4]

Can you explain why? I asked our structural inspector and foundation inspector and neither could give me a reason beyond water and pest penetration.

The house we just bought has a 20 degree slope to the driveway away from the house, so renders water penetration idea useless and curb that is pure annoyance.


Making my new SA build come true!!!

Nope. I just know most of the houses have it.

[TXSurf4]

In the northern states, it keeps out wind, blowing snow, pest, and rain. The water won't run up hill into the garage but when it is falling sideways it can easy blow through the rubber seal at the bottom of the door. Mine in my garage and my barn are only 3/4" but it does that same thing. The bigger lips are mostly just because of the framing work from the contractor. In Texas, I could imagine sand and dust being a large issue also.

As for the OP, I would focus on getting the wall down so the boat fits, working out a tow vehicle, and most important, getting a build slot. Then figure it all out later. The dolly (manual or electric) will work for a season or 2. Then decide if cutting on the house is necessary.

Ya I agree. Only reason I asked is because that little lip could make a manual dolly quite difficult.

[CptAmerica]

I think you can totally do what you are wanting with a dolly. I wouldn't let anything stop me in you position. If you want the boat then make it happen. That being said does your garage have a lip leading in to it or is it level all the way in? I know most of ours down here have an 1-1/2" tall lip oin the front of them.

Tiny little lip.. maybe 1/2"

[CptAmerica]

In the northern states, it keeps out wind, blowing snow, pest, and rain. The water won't run up hill into the garage but when it is falling sideways it can easy blow through the rubber seal at the bottom of the door. Mine in my garage and my barn are only 3/4" but it does that same thing. The bigger lips are mostly just because of the framing work from the contractor. In Texas, I could imagine sand and dust being a large issue also.

As for the OP, I would focus on getting the wall down so the boat fits, working out a tow vehicle, and most important, getting a build slot. Then figure it all out later. The dolly (manual or electric) will work for a season or 2. Then decide if cutting on the house is necessary.

This sounds right to me.

[rhouse181]

I may call around and see if this is possible. Our house is basic wood construction with horizontal siding. I don't know much about carpentry, so it SEEMS like a bigger deal than maybe it is. Our garage is around the back of the house totally invisible from anywhere unless you go around to the back of the house. It may look kinda weird with one of the doors wider than the other, but as long as the door's styles matched, I don't think it would bea big deal. My truck currently goes in the 3rd bay and it doesn't fit with the tow mirrors out. I think 9' doors are too small by default. I think all doors should be 10x9

Boat ownership is a slippery slope of all these things you never realized you needed... the "life upgrade" cost doesn't typically get layered on top of the boat purchase!

To be honest, getting a wider and taller door framed from the get go will save you massive headaches in the long run. While it sounds fun dollying your boat + trailer around and spending 45 mins fitting through with less than an inch of clearance, it will be the last thing you want to do after you are exhausted after spending a weekend on the water drinking beer and surfing.

Minimize risk for house / boat / human injury and pull the trigger on a new door

[korey]

My 8' door debacle was so painful because
1) I was already financially stretching to buy the boat
and
2) I had already cut up my garage and put in an 8' door (in place of the 7' door that was there). It took some custom work to get the full 8' clearance, then it was wrong by about 2 inches!

Here is a time lapse of what it took me to get the boat out every weekend that first summer:

1. Pull boat out with 8 or 10" drop hitch and deflated tires
2. start inflating tires - I bought an inflator for use with the air compressor that would auto stop at a set pressure
3. while tires are inflating - stopping to switch the air chuck to the next tire as needed - unfold tower, install board racks, install trailer guide posts, load life jackets, boards, and whatever else we removed last week.
4. Once tires were inflated, chock wheels, uncouple from truck, swap drop hitches (using a floor jack because the tongue jack couldn't go low enough), and re-couple. Couplers were a different length and I was on a hill, so it took readjustment from the truck.

I got it down to about 25 minutes or sweat and cussing. I only hit the garage once with the rub rail at about the widest part of the boat.

My storage unit is $100/month and in the same industrial park as my office. It was a no brainer for me! I'll be picking her up on my way out of work this evening for prep to hit the road at quitting time tomorrow!

[2in2out]

My storage unit is $100/month and in the same industrial park as my office. It was a no brainer for me! I'll be picking her up on my way out of work this evening for prep to hit the road at quitting time tomorrow!

This was my result after storing our first boat in the garage our first winter with it.

Next winter it went into storage with all the gear we were keeping in the garage.

After selling that boat and getting our last SA at the very end of season, the only storage we could find was a concierge storage facility. I’d call them up the day before and they would have the boat parked and ready next morning. They had an Indmar certified boat mechanic and shop facility. For a fee, they would completely ready your boat with fuel, ice your cooler, and even shop for your beer, drinks, and food. It was pretty baller, but I never used it. Knowing my boat was in a climate controlled and secure facility made me feel secure, and I had my driveway and curb clear.


Making my new SA build come true!!!

[2in2out]

In the northern states, it keeps out wind, blowing snow, pest, and rain. The water won't run up hill into the garage but when it is falling sideways it can easy blow through the rubber seal at the bottom of the door. Mine in my garage and my barn are only 3/4" but it does that same thing. The bigger lips are mostly just because of the framing work from the contractor. In Texas, I could imagine sand and dust being a large issue also.

I had to deal with blowing wind and snow in our last house that had no lip/curb in the garage and had no issues. Door faced the prevailing wind, and I would get every leaf from my neighbors tree, but no leakage. Same with the bay doors at my work. Rarely ever an issue with Sierra storms, dust, or pests.


Making my new SA build come true!!!

[Holdmybeer]

I had to deal with blowing wind and snow in our last house that had no lip/curb in the garage and had no issues. Door faced the prevailing wind, and I would get every leaf from my neighbors tree, but no leakage. Same with the bay doors at my work. Rarely ever an issue with Sierra storms, dust, or pests.


Making my new SA build come true!!!

I understand completely. Did not say it was good reasoning, just the only reasoning there is.

My house garage faces west and that is the direction every storm comes from. IN the winter the crops are removed and I have 0 cover or wind block. I have never had water in the garage but I have had water inside but stopped at the lip. Snow on the other hand seems to not care. Some how no matter what I try, it makes it through the rubber bumper on the bottom of my barn door. However, it is insulated and heated so again I have water that the bump keeps contained until it drains out on its own. Every entrance I have is sloped away from the house also, but not 20*. Again, mine are not 1.5" but only 3/4".

[2in2out]

To be honest, getting a wider and taller door framed from the get go will save you massive headaches in the long run. While it sounds fun dollying your boat + trailer around and spending 45 mins fitting through with less than an inch of clearance, it will be the last thing you want to do after you are exhausted after spending a weekend on the water drinking beer and surfing.

Minimize risk for house / boat / human injury and pull the trigger on a new door

I agree. Go taller and wider. I would do one 20’ 10 tall door and a 8/10’ door. Only helps in the resale. You can advertise it as able to store a boat, tractor, etc.


Making my new SA build come true!!!