Replacing coolant/ ECT code

[Holdmybeer]

Is the factory system the same as the aftermarkets?

There is a coolant pump that is electric that runs heated liquid though a water to air heat exchanger that gives you heat, correct.
So, no heat = no coolant flow to heater box.
Added pump = more chances for leaks <--- I would check the pump

However, if the engine water pump is driving the whole system and there is not an inline heater pump, then I would be checking the lines from the engine to the heater box under the seat. Liquid would have to be bypassing the box or you have a giant air pocket in the system and the coolant is traveling least path of resistance, which is not the heater circuit.

Good news, the engine looks to be fine and is running at 160* and not misfiring.

[eder10986]

Good about the 160 making me feel much better about things.

My heater pump is exactly like the one in the picture above.

As of yesterday no heat again and I did have heat earlier this season. When I turn the heater on I don’t feel any movement or warmth on heater pump. Not sure if I should or not but I’m comparing it to a ballast pump perhaps.

If I have to get to heater core I’ll have to take a seat off. I’m hoping I can find the leak with a UV light.

I have read about an air bubble. If I do have an air bubble, how did it happen, and how can I fix the issue?


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[Holdmybeer]

160 is the thermostat setting for the engine. The smoke in your video is completely normal. I would not worry about the engine.

The heater pump not having movement or vibration means it is not working. I would look for a fuse or breaker under the helm. However, if you don't lose anymore coolant while it is not working then that answers the question about where it was going.

The pump should have vibration to it or even some slight noise (might be hard to hear over the heater fan). Something to check while waiting for your UV light.

[eder10986]

If it wasn’t raining it check on it. I’ll look for a blown fuse somewhere for the pump.


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[korey]

I am dealing with a very similar issue as you are. I'm loosing coolant at the rate of about 12oz per engine hour. This weekend I bypassed the heater (disconnected the hoses at the intake manifold of the engine and looped one into the other on the engine) and my coolant consumption stopped. I can't pinpoint a leak in the heater circuit, but coolant was showing up in my bilge before I bypassed the heater. I intend to pull the heater pump and inspect it next.

[eder10986]

I am dealing with a very similar issue as you are. I'm loosing coolant at the rate of about 12oz per engine hour. This weekend I bypassed the heater (disconnected the hoses at the intake manifold of the engine and looped one into the other on the engine) and my coolant consumption stopped. I can't pinpoint a leak in the heater circuit, but coolant was showing up in my bilge before I bypassed the heater. I intend to pull the heater pump and inspect it next.

Sent you a message brother!


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[BigOrange]

Same thing I just did this weekend. My approach was to limp through to fall with known leak in heater loop pump and top off as needed. But, a heavy wakeboard session and the boat had other thoughts. Plastic fitting on heater loop hose close to engine top failed (probably from getting too hot). Luckily, enough slack was still available to remove ~8 inch of hose and connect back to engine in order to get back to dock.

Air bubble is real - my theory is most likely exacerbated by hot engine. Took us about 5 or 6 attempts to get engine to finally “drink” new coolant added to surge tank.

Went to auto parts store and found decent choice of 5/8” molded heater hose that would “jumper” the engine heater loop supply/return and also plugged the now unused hoses to heater. Clipped wires on leaking heater pump to ensure it doesn’t run dry and will replace all this winter.

[eder10986]

Need more ideas fellas. Trailered 30miles to lake to test out for more leaks besides in driveway.

Reservoir was full before we left home and I checked once I put the boat in the water and before I cranked the engine the reservoir was empty.

There’s a faint taste of it in the bilge water (yes I tasted it, don’t judge) but it’s not just coolant in the bilge. I am lost now….

Essentially lost more coolant just driving.

Only thought I have is we were so low on coolant because of a slow leak I haven’t been able to isolate that with driving it set.

Who knows. So lost


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[Holdmybeer]

Driving to the lake worked out an air bubble allowing the radiator to "suck" in the reservoir liquid?

Where did water in the bilge come from to mix with the coolant? "I put the boat in the water and before I cranked the engine the reservoir was empty."

Worst case would be heat exchanger on motor. Coolant would be under higher pressure and push into heat exchanger and then dumped into the lake at the exhaust flange. But you lost coolant on a trailer so that doesn't make sense either.....

[2in2out]

A hole in the heat exchanger core with vibration and pressure changes could have put volume in the jacket, then it mixed with lake water when launching. I would have the heat exchanger core tested or replaced.

You still may have leaks at the heater pump and heat exchanger resulting in coolant in bilge.

I think it’s time to stop F’ing with it and get it in for warranty work, otherwise a catastrophic failure may occur.


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