Changing prop

[DDD123]

I have watched some videos on this and it seems pretty easy. Any pitfalls here in your experience of doing it that I should watch out for? Also, other than the actual acme prop puller is there another device that can be used? Some of the 3 point devices are 25 on amazon, the prop puller is $150, which seems excessive.

[eder10986]

I’ve successfully used a harmonic prop puller more than once.

Screw it on the the prop shaft. Give it a few light whacks with a mallet and off it comes. Doesn’t need much force at all. Wakemakers snd acme sell them for $40-$60


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[Woody929]

I’ve done this many times…

Key things I’ve learned.
1. Get a prop puller
2. Never remove the nut all the way off of the shaft until you have the prop loose. It most likely is wedged on the shaft pretty good.
3. After adding tension with the puller, if it doesn’t give a blow torch might be needed. To heat around the shaft a little.
4. When the prop gives way, it is loud and almost guaranteed to make you jump. That’s why you don’t take the nut all the way off.


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[DDD123]

I’ve done this many times…

Key things I’ve learned.
1. Get a prop puller
2. Never remove the nut all the way off of the shaft until you have the prop loose. It most likely is wedged on the shaft pretty good.
3. After adding tension with the puller, if it doesn’t give a blow torch might be needed. To heat around the shaft a little.
4. When the prop gives way, it is loud and almost guaranteed to make you jump. That’s why you don’t take the nut all the way off.


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Lol @ #4 and very much so appreciate the advice on that one! Doing a backflip out of the little raft I will be doing this on since the boat is lifted in dock would not have been a sexy move.

So I am looking for prop pullers everywhere and can't seem to find one that could get to me before the weekend. I either need to find a jaw grip puller that will work similarly or if anyone on here has one I will pay you what you paid for it and for shipping and then ship it back to you and you can take a fee (whatever is fair to you) and send the rest back. Just PM me if that is an option for anyone.

[Holdmybeer]

Any welding skills? Or Fab shops around you?

I saw on another forum when looking a guy took a 4" c-clamp, cut the end off and welded a fork to the end to go around the shaft.
I could see using a large 2 jaw puller also.

If you are doing this in the water, certainly do not take the nut all the way off, say goodbye to prop.
Hang an umbrella upside down off the shaft to catch something you may drop - aka key stock
Use rope on the puller or else it is gone also. My puller only needed 2.5 turns to "POP" the prop off.

Good luck but it is super easy. If you get a puller (of any kind) it is truly a 15 minute job.

[MLA]

3. After adding tension with the puller, if it doesn’t give a blow torch might be needed. To heat around the shaft a little.

This is actually outlined in the c-clamp puller directions. You are not supposed to keep loading the puller till the prop pops. You are to load the puller, then smack a couple times with hammer, then load a little more and repeat. No torch needed.

[DDD123]

Any thoughts on maybe this working? There are no prop pullers anywhere that I can get by Friday .

https://www.amazon.com/Thin-bearing-...00275705&psc=1

or maybe

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Mechanica..._t1_B000KJ29Q4


I guess the other part of the question (or a comment) is maybe I don't need a puller, the boat has only been used for 21 hours, maybe it comes off easier. No idea.

[repomannv]

Breaking lose two objects that are connected with a tapered surface is no joke, whether its a ball joint on a car, generator rotors on the end of motorcycle crankshafts, or a boat prop. Shock/vibration is the key to breaking a mated tapered surface, just pulling alone is usually not enough, that's why you'll see a combination of a puller tool, and some kind of shock inducing force like a hammer blow, or similar. Heat can help by expanding one of the two surfaces and making it easier to break them loose. I always get amused when I see a youtube video of someone breaking loose a tapered surface and they have a stealth edit of the video where they cut out several minutes (no doubt of them mercilessly beating on the connection trying to break it) and then they just show the last few seconds where it just "pops" right off. Trust me, if you are struggling to break it loose, this is normal. Just keep working it. I definitely agree buying the puller tools helps a lot, its worth the investment.

[Tommy2slow]

This is actually outlined in the c-clamp puller directions. You are not supposed to keep loading the puller till the prop pops. You are to load the puller, then smack a couple times with hammer, then load a little more and repeat. No torch needed.

MLA is on the money here. When using a puller tighten it down snug. A ratchet works fine here as you don’t need a lot of torque. Once you have tension on prop, usually a couple of medium blows on the forks engaged against the prop are enough. Yes, leave the nut on loosely and yes, it will make you jump when it “pops”. Make sure you keep track of the key-way through the entire process and replace the 5 cent cotter pin. There are at least a 100 videos on YouTube that will help you get familiar with the job before you attempt this from a dinghy.

[Holdmybeer]

Any thoughts on maybe this working? There are no prop pullers anywhere that I can get by Friday .

https://www.amazon.com/Thin-bearing-...00275705&psc=1

or maybe

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Mechanica..._t1_B000KJ29Q4


I guess the other part of the question (or a comment) is maybe I don't need a puller, the boat has only been used for 21 hours, maybe it comes off easier. No idea.

I would assume the second one would work better for you.

Do you have a Harbor Freight close by? They sell a kit with 3 sizes for $28.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...set-40966.html

Also, what prop do you have and what are you changing to? I thought you mentioned having the ACME 3591 (16x13.9).