No power to fuel pump

[Probably the Killswitch]

I have a 2006 XLV with the 5.7 Indmar EFI. I pulled the boat out of winter storage and it was running flawlessly for a couple weeks. The other night on the lake, I went to start up to go home and it started pretty hard. I had to pump the throttle quite a bit which I have never had to do in the 15 years I've had the boat. Thinking it was just the fuel/water separator that caused the hard-start, I changed out the cannister the next day only to find the boat would crank but not fire at all. I brought the multimeter down and discovered I am not getting power to the fuel pump. I started running down the list of possibilities and this is what I've done so far:

Checked fuses near the ECM- all good.
Removed all three relays and tested with multimeter- all good
Checked kill-switch connections and tested continuity with multimeter- good
Removed oil pressure sender and tested with multimeter- good
Checked for loose/corroded connections under dash- all seem fine

Most posts I have read on similar issues pertain to carb engines so I am at a loss for what to check next. Any help is appreciated.

[Turbinesurgeon]

So are you testing for voltage while cranking or just the 2 seconds it comes on when you turn the key on?
The crank sensor could cause this problem and worth looking into as well


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[Probably the Killswitch]

I'm checking it while cranking. I will take a look at the crank sensor. Do you know where it is located? I can't seem to find it on any diagrams.

[Holdmybeer]

I'm checking it while cranking. I will take a look at the crank sensor. Do you know where it is located? I can't seem to find it on any diagrams.

Under the water pump, just left of the harmonic balancer when looking at the belt drive. Probably a $30 part and a PITA to change.

You can check the resistance on the sensor. I believe you want to be under a 1000 ohms. Last one I checked new was 300-ish and the old one measured 6,000 (trash).

[Probably the Killswitch]

Thanks for the tips guys, I really appreciate the help. I'll give it a go after work and let you know how she does.

[Holdmybeer]

If you turn the key to run you should see 12V at the pump for 1-2 secs and/or even hear it build pressure. If the crank position sensor or oil level switch is bad, then it won't fire when you try to start the engine.

If there is not voltage at the fuel pump at all, then time to start looking at wiring back to the ECM and the ECM itself.

How did it run home once you pumped it to start? Crank position failing usually causes misfires and no power.

[HFarr]

When you say you are getting no power to the fuel pump... Are you actually measuring no voltage at the wire feeding the pump itself, or is the pump just not making any noise or running? Forgive me if I missed something earlier.

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[Probably the Killswitch]

When you say you are getting no power to the fuel pump... Are you actually measuring no voltage at the wire feeding the pump itself, or is the pump just not making any noise or running? Forgive me if I missed something earlier.

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I am holding my multimeter leads to the connections on the pump while someone else cranks the key. No voltage at any point.

[SONIC]

Do you have spark?

[secondsupra2004]

I am holding my multimeter leads to the connections on the pump while someone else cranks the key. No voltage at any point.

I have a service/ diagnostic manual for the MEFI 4 system. In it, it states that when the key is first turned on you should have fuel pump run 2 seconds. The ECM sends a signal directly to the fuel pump relay and then after 2 seconds it does not receive an ignition signal it shuts power to the fuel pump relay. I wouldn’t think that coolant temp sensor or oil pressure sensor would be in that initial 2 second circuit.
I would recheck the fuel pump relay fuse and the relay.