Ceramic coating process

[larry_arizona]

Just starting the process of ceramic coating my boat. Thought it might be interesting to show the process on a new boat start to finish.

Starting off with a new boat helps, but even a new boat needs quite a bit of polishing to get the gelcoat looking it’s best.

I am surprised how many scuffs, scratches, mars and defects come on a new boat.

Step 1: wash and decontaminate boat of existing wax and polish residue.

I simply use dawn dish soap to strip any existing wax or polish. This is the only time I recommend using dawn as a wash on gelcoat.

They do polish boats at the factory, because there is a white polish residue in the rub rails and other fitting around the boat.

My dealer also used some form of spray wax or detailer to make it look it’s best in the showroom.

Need to get that off.

Step 2: correcting and polishing gelcoat.

Paint and gelcoat are really nothing alike. Paints are typically softer and easier to correct and gelcoat is very hard and it’s porous and more difficult to correct. You typically can’t get a gelcoat to be as perfect as paint, so set your expectations accordingly.

Compounds exist specifically for correcting gelcoats. I am not selling or promoting any of these products so do your research.

I am using an adams swirl killer random orbital (Rupes knockoff), it’s a good consumer grade polisher, if I was a pro, no question get a rupes.


I am using blue heavy cut blue rupes foam pads, followed by yellow rupes foam and microfiber fine cut pads.

My theory on the blue heavy cut pads is on hard gelcoat, they will finish better than a fine cut pad......we shall see.

The compound I am using is Gyeon marine polish step 2. Gelcoat specific diminishing abrasive starts strong and finishes soft as you use it. With the boat being new, I don’t feel the more aggressive step 1 polish will be necessary.

After you polish, you will need a product that removes all the polish residue for ceramic coatings to bond properly. Carpro eraser or Feynlab panel prep, you can also use a water/iso propyl alcohol mix, but I am not a fan of it personally.

I have polished half the boat so far, 2 hours in and I am very pleased with how this is working. The boat is still in the showroom so I can only polish a couple hours at a time.

Stay tuned......


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[haknslash]

Nice and can’t wait to see more!

[Morvornagh]

Thanks Larry - this will be a really helpful series for a lot if us!!!


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[larry_arizona]

Going with IGL marine ceramic again.



A little trick my pro detailer buddy taught me was using a leveling aid.

When you apply ceramic, depending on temp and humidity, the time you wait to wipe off and “level” the coating can widely vary.

If you wait too long and the ceramic hardens too quickly, you are left with high spots that look like streaks. A leveling aid will reactivate the coating and allow you to level the coating right away.

Without gut leveling aid, you would have to buff the streaks out and that is no fun.

If it’s a hot humid day, you’re likely going to want a leveling aid.


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[cwfehr]

This will be helpful. Thinking of doing the same. Not sure if I want to do myself or have a pro do it.

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[larry_arizona]

I am by no means a professional detailer although I do get guidance from a pro.

The point of this is anyone can DIY this with the proper tools,materials and process.

When I heard pros charging $2000-$3000 to correct and coat a wakeboat, I immediately thought can I do it myself?

I did autobody and paint to put myself through college, so I have a background in some automotive detailing and with that I do detail my own vehicles.

Gelcoat is a similar process but it’s different.

My purpose with this is if I can do it, any of those who want to do this can.

Is it worth the labor and materials cost? Maybe maybe not. But I enjoy working on my own stuff and have a high pride of ownership that drives me.

This may be a good time to say IGL marine is not available to non professional consumers but there are several marine specific coatings that are. If you have friends in the detail business, they can get this for you.

The main difference between pro and consumer is the amount of ceramic solids in the product. The more ceramic the harder it is to install properly and manufacturers want you to certify versus having bad installations in the field.

Pros can warranty a 5 year coating and consumer grade is a 2-3 year coating.

Other prograde coatings
1) Feynlab hydro
2) ceramic pro

Consumer grade coatings.
1) Gyeon gelcoat, Gyeon makes high end coatings and products and this would be my consumer available choice.
2) glidecoat marine
3) gtechniq marine base coat and top coat
4) jade marine pro.
5) R1 marine


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[larry_arizona]

Progress report....







Going to grab a gloss meter from work and see where we are at and see if I can go farther.

Factory gelcoat is appx an 85 gloss, I am guessing so far I am in low 90’s and goal is 95-96.


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[996scott]

Great work so far. Keep the pictures coming.

[2in2out]

Kent, you’re gonna need a welding hood and SPF 700 to protect from that shine on a sunny day. Nice work. I wish I had your dedication.

[larry_arizona]

Kent, you’re gonna need a welding hood and SPF 700 to protect from that shine on a sunny day. Nice work. I wish I had your dedication.

With the right pads and compounds, anyone can do this too. I have 2 hours into the port side so far. Well worth it.


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