Engine shutoff during ballast fill

[Turbinesurgeon]

Yeah I think they skimped out on adding the last valve, it does have 3 tanks, but it kinda fills them all weirdly, combines two of them into one zone. Honestly if it had manual valves it would be so much easier because the electric ones don’t close all the way and so you basically get one bag filling slowly and the other bursting at the seams, kinda stupid.

I’m going to get the reversible pumps and my ultimate goals is to have 4 switches: front, middle, and left/right rear.


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I got rid of that set up and went with the aerator pump set up. I like it and it wasn’t all that expensive. You can see my post in the modification forum.


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[VA LSV]

Is your ballast switch on the dash connected to anything? My 05 came with center ballast only which was controlled from the switch on the dash. I ordered parts from Skiers to add factory Gravity 3. It came with 3 rocker switches and a fuse/relay board that provides power to the fill pump when any of the fill switches are on. My switch on the dash isn't connected to anything now.
Also in your pic of the circuit board under the dash the power feed wire with the ring lug is not secured with a nut.

[Alexander Bowen]

Well I actually took the boat out on the weekend with the re-wire and it filled perfectly without shutting down, it filled very quickly, and empties very quickly, faster then before, so maybe it was getting enough juice? I saw my battery is a 24v battery, I hope that there isn’t some sort of wrong voltage and that’s why it was hooked up weird, I need to test to see how many volts the positive bus has, and how many the motor is supposed to add.

In answer to your question about the dash ballast button, yes it’s hooked up, but I don’t think it does anything, I’ve flipped it before and nothing happens


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[Stazi]

There’s NO WAY your battery is 24V. Not a chance. The electronics on Moombas are made to run on 12V, period.

How on earth did you come up with that idea?

Post pics....I need to see this!


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[Alexander Bowen]

Nvm, 24dc has to be the part number not the voltage...


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[Stazi]

Nvm, 24dc has to be the part number not the voltage...


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LOL yeah, that’s the battery “size”.


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[Turbinesurgeon]

You can wire the batteries in series and then you’d essentially have one 24V battery but everything would be fried when you turned it on.


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[VA LSV]

You should move the ring lug from the large battery post clamps to the threaded battery posts for a much more secure connection. Your Neg connection looks to be a little loose.

[Alexander Bowen]

You should move the ring lug from the large battery post clamps to the threaded battery posts for a much more secure connection. Your Neg connection looks to be a little loose.

Good point, that makes sense, I will check it.

So I need some help with some math, I guess I need to figure out how many amps 4 reversible pumps will draw on start up and continuously running, as well as figure out amp draw of the boat engine running, and then figure out how well my alternator is running, or do you have to upgrade alternator when you are only going to be running the pumps for 5 mins to fill tanks and have them off the rest of the time?


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[VA LSV]

Shouldn't need to upgrade alternator. Most people are sitting with the motor off getting gear ready while ballast finishes filling. Use FLA rating on the pump motors to size wiring and fuses.