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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Henderson, NV
    Posts
    5,383

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    not sure what your end goal is. I would decide at this point what you want long term for upgrades and then plan how to attack this issue. if it was my boat I would be planning a 3 pump fill and drain setup. that said I would wire the pumps outside of the ignition circuit. if your boat is like my '06 supra was, there should be a positive buss bar under the dash. hook onto that and wire the pump thru it's own circuit/breaker.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    s.e. washington state
    Posts
    3,093

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    You may have a common connection between the ground of the pump and your ignition circuitry that in turn has a poor ground to your battery ground. When you turn on your pump, there is a high enough voltage potential applied to the negative wires to drop out your ignition circuit. You should see a reduction in pump speed if this occurs. Check the continuity of your ground wire to the terminal block.
    1998 Mobius
    310 HP PCM
    SOLD

  3. #13

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    Well I went and wired the the feed wire for the pump/valves up and hooked it into the hot bus. It has its own distinct ground wire going to the grounding buss, the ground appears okay, I havntí plopped the boat in the water yet, but from my examinations without turning the boat all the way on, it appears to work, only time will tell I guess. I probably should wire in a breaker for it, but it does have fuses so Iím not that worried.

    I intend on getting reversible pumps and completely redoing the system, but one step at a time. I had 350lb bags in each rear locker and 400-450 in the center locker, I just ordered the dual 910lb bags from wakeshapers for the rear as well as the reinforcing bars for the engine divider. Might stick those 350ís up front for temporary.


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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    56

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    Actually those fuses under the dash are for the drain pumps and the sprinkler valves. 3amp is for the sprinkler and the 10amp are for the drain pumps. The main fill pump has a resetable circuit breaker located right next to the fill/drain switches. I believe itís 25amps. Your circuit is there and not at the fuse panel so Iím not sure you changed anything. Iím thinking like others mentioned that you have a ground issue.


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  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbinesurgeon View Post
    Actually those fuses under the dash are for the drain pumps and the sprinkler valves. 3amp is for the sprinkler and the 10amp are for the drain pumps. The main fill pump has a resetable circuit breaker located right next to the fill/drain switches. I believe itís 25amps. Your circuit is there and not at the fuse panel so Iím not sure you changed anything. Iím thinking like others mentioned that you have a ground issue.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hmmm I will look again to be sure, but I do think I changed something, because it used to be, even with the key out of the ignition, you could still turn the pumps (both fill and empty) on and off, now it only works when the key is in the run position. But that makes sense about the 10 amp drain fuses, I will look for a 25 amp circuit.


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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    56

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    That is normal to run the pumps with the key off. Just like the stereo. I wouldnít want my pumps running on the ignition because the hour meter runs with the ignition on.


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  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbinesurgeon View Post
    That is normal to run the pumps with the key off. Just like the stereo. I wouldnít want my pumps running on the ignition because the hour meter runs with the ignition on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well what I mean by that is I only ever fill the tanks when the boat engine is on, most of the time idling while I go to park the trailer and the better half waits for me to come down the dock, so Iím okay with them only running when the boat is on. I donít want a switch accidentally getting pushed and the motors running dry and running the battery down while Iím trailering the boat, so I consider it an improvement (the fill motor is actually very quiet). I will look again, but I didnít see a fuse or a breaker near the fill switches though




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  8. #18

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    I have looked and the ballast system has its own distinct grounding wire different than the ignition system and itís tight and doesnít seem to have any issues, actually now the ballast system is completely separate from touching the ignition system on both positive and negative side, except they both touch the positive bus and negative bus coming from the battery of course.


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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Thatís interesting. My 06 with gravity games has three switches and a circuit breaker on the panel. I assumed they were all like that. Thatís what I get for assuming.


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  10. #20

    Default Engine shutoff during ballast fill

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbinesurgeon View Post
    Thatís interesting. My 06 with gravity games has three switches and a circuit breaker on the panel. I assumed they were all like that. Thatís what I get for assuming.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah I think they skimped out on adding the last valve, it does have 3 tanks, but it kinda fills them all weirdly, combines two of them into one zone. Honestly if it had manual valves it would be so much easier because the electric ones donít close all the way and so you basically get one bag filling slowly and the other bursting at the seams, kinda stupid.

    Iím going to get the reversible pumps and my ultimate goals is to have 4 switches: front, middle, and left/right rear.


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