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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Novi, MI
    Posts
    105

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
    MLA I think that’s the standard 50A breaker that then feed the factory distribution block and fuses under the helm. It doesn’t even need to be messed with in this situation as all the main power demands for the running of the boat stay as they are and run on the main battery and then the additional new battery should just be for the stereo components.


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    Correct, it came with the boat and does feed the factory distribution block.

    Thank you.
    Moomba Dad
    Ausable Lake, MI

    2004 Mobius LSV

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Commerce Lake, MI
    Posts
    1,753

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    Ok. You should NOT even be messing with that entire circuit.

    All your stereo stuff needs to be on your second battery. So each amp has it’s on +ve feed and fuse. And then the -ve from each amp also needs to go back to that second battery.

    If you bought a Battery Doctor like I recommend then it will tie in the secondary d battery to the charging system.

    WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK..._a.0gDb49B982Z

    You don’t need any other Perko switches or extra BS with the Battery Doctor. Takes all the guess work
    Out of switching between batteries




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    2017 Moomba Craz

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Novi, MI
    Posts
    105

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    Stazi,

    I purchased a Perko switch. The original battery has a 50 amp circuit breaker attached to the positive terminal of the original battery along with the positive wire that feeds the boat power. So now that I'm connecting the positive wire from the boat to the Perko switch (instead of the direct to the battery) I think I need to do the same with the 50 amp circuit breaker wire. If I connect it direct to the battery then I would be by passing the Perko switch which I don't think is a good idea. (I believe it's similar to the fused terminal your diagram shows between the battery and the battery doctor.)

    Do you agree?
    Moomba Dad
    Ausable Lake, MI

    2004 Mobius LSV

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,074

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    All your stereo stuff needs to be on your second battery
    Not with a dual bank battery switch in the scheme.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Novi, MI
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    Not with a dual bank battery switch in the scheme.
    Ok, now I'm really confused. Please elaborate.

    Right now I was planning on having all stereo equipment connected to the second battery. Come to think of it, I think I'll have to disconnect my existing stereo head from the original battery and power it from the second battery.
    Moomba Dad
    Ausable Lake, MI

    2004 Mobius LSV

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Commerce Lake, MI
    Posts
    1,753

    Default

    Perko switch changes what I said. The wire coming out of the existing breaker needs to b wired into the battery one position and the battery 2 potision will be connected to your new auxiliary battery for your stereo.

    Maybe MLA has a wiring diagram for that.

    I have never liked the Perko switches. Too much BS around switching them to “right” setting which is another debate all on its own.


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    2017 Moomba Craz

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Novi, MI
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Stazi,

    Thank you for all of your help. Sorry if I caused any confusion. Your previous post confirms how I intend to wire it. I purchased the Perko because it seems to be very popular, and my cost for this "little" project is spiraling out control. LOL.
    Moomba Dad
    Ausable Lake, MI

    2004 Mobius LSV

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,074

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moomba Dad View Post
    Ok, now I'm really confused. Please elaborate.

    Right now I was planning on having all stereo equipment connected to the second battery. Come to think of it, I think I'll have to disconnect my existing stereo head from the original battery and power it from the second battery.
    The wiring and operation of a 1/2/BOTH switch is simple, just takes a little discipline when on the water.

    The switch has a common output. Every load, except the auto-bilge, gets wired through the common output. Switch off means BOAT IS OFF. Nothing left with voltage to it.

    Anything wired to the 1 or 2 position is electrically the same as wiring direct to the battery post, and circumvents the switch. This is what complicates the use of the switch IMO.

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