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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Canby, OR
    Posts
    58

    Default Re-Wiring Head Unit

    I’d like to re-wire the power lead to my Fusion head unit so that it doesn’t turn off when I turn the engine off as many others have done (and then have to reboot when I turn the key to accessory). Instead of wiring it to an open accessory switch I am considering running the power wire all the way to the power distribution block that feeds my amps. Has anyone done this and does anyone see a reason not to? The obvious downside is that I would have to run a longer length of wire but it seems redundant to me to have an accessory switch that turns the head unit on and off when I could just do that at the head unit itself. Any input is appreciated, thanks guys!
    2017 Mojo
    2005 Moomba XLV (sold)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Personally, I run a rocker switch that has power as long as the battery switch is on. This provides a light that reminds me the stereo is powered on.

    Nothing wrong with your idea and it's simple to do.
    '06 Gravity XLV
    Wetsounds stuff

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,027

    Default

    I prefer an illuminated helm switch. If its a standard Carling, you can get a "stereo" or custom actuator for it.. Depending on which Fusion, you may be running a new B+ anyway. One model has a 3 wire power harness with red switched IGN and the other is a 2 wire harness and red serves as the switched IGN and there is no yellow constant B+.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Henderson, NV
    Posts
    5,146

    Default

    following chp's advice this is how I wired up the last stereo outside of tigetouch for the same reasons you call out.
    rocker switch was recommended so you have a "clean" power cutoff. no dead batteries, no issues if you need to work on it.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    4,683

    Default

    i have the exile BT controller that has the abilty to either send or recieve a remote turn on signal. I use the send function so that my BT controller is the "switch" that turns on and off my system. I still do have an MB quart headunit and wired remotes that are powered by the Auxillary stereo rocker switch. but honestly, I use those pieces so seldom that most the time it's just the BT controller that I power on (which goes to the Wetsounds 420, and then to my amps.

    There's no real right or wrong. the illumination on my BT controller and on my WS420sq are reminder enough that my system is on. never forgot to shut it down.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Stillwater, Oklahoma
    Posts
    397

    Default

    If you are running a new power wire for your head unit consider taking the radio's power wire(s) and also the ground wire straight to the distribution block for your amplifiers. Get away from the noisy helm wiring for your radio power. MLA's recommendation of a Carling switch with a STEREO switch cover is a best solution.

    In our customer service and tech center we routinely recommend re-wiring a head unit's power wiring to help eliminate alternator noise, relay and pump solenoid clicks, and other noises in the audio system. It is a good solution for many noise issues.

    Phil
    Kicker

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