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Thread: Quick temperature fluctuation
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04-25-2018, 03:27 PM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2016
- Location
- West Milwaukee, WI
- Posts
- 283
There's a waxed paper gasket and rubber o ring. Both go on dry. Careful not to overtighten the cover bolts.
If you remove the old and it looks clean, just test it out in a pot of water with an instant read thermometer and put it back in if it is opening as expected.
If it falls apart in your hands like mine did, replace it.
Sent from my OnePlus 5 using Tapatalk2004 Mobius LS - hooked on footin'
Former tow: 1986 Chaparral 178 XL, 90hp Merc
First tow: 197x Glasspar Citation, 135hp Merc
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04-25-2018, 03:34 PM #12Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2017
- Location
- Hanover, VA
- Posts
- 91
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04-25-2018, 06:03 PM #132007 XLV Gravity Games
Full Wake Makers upgraded ballast and pumps
1,100 in each rear locker
1,180 in front
OJ 1435 prop, 325 EFI Indmar Assult.
Fresh Air Exhaust
SuckG8
Bunch of other crap
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04-25-2018, 06:04 PM #142007 XLV Gravity Games
Full Wake Makers upgraded ballast and pumps
1,100 in each rear locker
1,180 in front
OJ 1435 prop, 325 EFI Indmar Assult.
Fresh Air Exhaust
SuckG8
Bunch of other crap
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04-25-2018, 06:22 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2016
- Location
- West Milwaukee, WI
- Posts
- 283
If you don't use the o ring, the rtv should be added around the outer face of the thermostat. That's where the ring would go.
There should be a slight channel on the thermostat that the ring lays in.
Sent from my OnePlus 5 using Tapatalk2004 Mobius LS - hooked on footin'
Former tow: 1986 Chaparral 178 XL, 90hp Merc
First tow: 197x Glasspar Citation, 135hp Merc
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04-26-2018, 09:06 AM #16
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04-26-2018, 10:03 AM #172007 XLV Gravity Games
Full Wake Makers upgraded ballast and pumps
1,100 in each rear locker
1,180 in front
OJ 1435 prop, 325 EFI Indmar Assult.
Fresh Air Exhaust
SuckG8
Bunch of other crap
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04-27-2018, 10:51 PM #18
Wish my temp gauge worked. Never moves. Think the guage is bad as I have grounded the sending unit wire and still no movement. New thermostat end of last year and impeller this year and haven't run it in the water yet, just in the hose.
Used a thin layer of rtv on mine.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk2005 Mobius LSV GG3 Package w/ Acme 1433
325 Indmar MPFI
Ballast: 750s Rear, 400 Center, 2 spare 260s
Kenwood KMR-440U
Wetsounds WS-420
JL M600/6 on 6 Polk MM6501UMs
JL HD750.1 on a Kicker L7 10"
JL HD600.4 on Kicker 6500.2 HLCDs
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04-29-2018, 02:46 PM #19
I’m too paranoid to run like that. I had a clogged sea strainer once. Since then I have eyes on that gague constantly.
2007 XLV Gravity Games
Full Wake Makers upgraded ballast and pumps
1,100 in each rear locker
1,180 in front
OJ 1435 prop, 325 EFI Indmar Assult.
Fresh Air Exhaust
SuckG8
Bunch of other crap
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05-01-2018, 09:01 PM #20
Change your tstat and impeller. If you just bought the boat you have no idea how old they may be. In cold water and running the tstat does not need to be open much to maintain temp. Then when you idle down with all the extra cold water flowing thru the tstat housing the tstat may remain barely open while the block can act as a heat sink sending the block and temp sensor upward. With low idle impeller flow it can take 10 or more secs depending on impeller flow to get enough water in to cool the block. If this is the case a new impeller and or tstat may be the first things to freshen up. If you find it creeps up after bringing the boat to idle after med to fast run, rev the engine in neutral and the temp should come back down in a couple of seconds.
09 21v LAUNCH
99 Outback LS. Sold
run your engine after you change your oil
68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
Doug