FAE Install Pics

[htfit]

I just got done removing my stock exhaust pipe and the debond did help. I used a heat gun and that didn't seem to do too much and then I hammered a wood wedge in and it provided a little gap to spray the debond in. You can hear it crackle when putting it on. I am sure you can do it without but it did seem to help.

I haven't gotten the baffle out. I was debating on just leaving it in for the simple fact I have no idea how to get it out. There is zero room to pull it out because of the length of the hose.

Does anybody have any advice on getting the baffle out? I can't really have somebody from the outside pull it with pliers because it is already against the transom. Thanks!

[flienlow]

I just got done removing my stock exhaust pipe and the debond did help. I used a heat gun and that didn't seem to do too much and then I hammered a wood wedge in and it provided a little gap to spray the debond in. You can hear it crackle when putting it on. I am sure you can do it without but it did seem to help.

I haven't gotten the baffle out. I was debating on just leaving it in for the simple fact I have no idea how to get it out. There is zero room to pull it out because of the length of the hose.

Does anybody have any advice on getting the baffle out? I can't really have somebody from the outside pull it with pliers because it is already against the transom. Thanks!

I too just got the old exhaust off. What a pain.
I thought the baffle was next to the exhaust pipe but after remove I see it is well under the engine. Did you try to remove yours yet? It does look like it would be a pain.

Also for installing the exhaust mine only came with wood screws. Did yours come with Machine screws as depicted in this write up? I feel this should be through bolted and not just screwed into the fiber glass. I am trying to figure out why they only use 3 holes instead of 4 too. My left lower hold is just a few degrees off, but I may still use that, and skip the templating part.

[htfit]

I too just got the old exhaust off. What a pain.
I thought the baffle was next to the exhaust pipe but after remove I see it is well under the engine. Did you try to remove yours yet? It does look like it would be a pain.

Also for installing the exhaust mine only came with wood screws. Did yours come with Machine screws as depicted in this write up? I feel this should be through bolted and not just screwed into the fiber glass. I am trying to figure out why they only use 3 holes instead of 4 too. My left lower hold is just a few degrees off, but I may still use that, and skip the templating part.

I loosened all the clamps to remove the baffle but I had no luck in getting it out. The only thing I can think of is folding the hose in half and wrapping a rope around it and having someone pull on it through the hole, if that makes any sense. I am just really nervous about kinking the hose so I am not sure if that is an option. Other than that I have no idea how to get it out. If the baffle was only a couple inches long I can see it, but it is 8" or something, so it is going to take a lot to get it out.

Yeah, I thought the same thing on the screws... For being custom it would of been pretty easy to drill 4 holes on the fae so it matches the current holes. I even thought about drilling 4 holes on the fae to match it up but I don't have a drill press and I would imagine trying to free hand it on the stainless steel would be tough.

That left lower screw is close. I didn't spend too much time lining it up perfectly, but I am with you, if I can reuse that hole I am going to if it is that close. I was not using the paper template, I pushed the hose to the side enough to put the pipe in and I will mark where the holes are going.

Yes, wood screws came with mine too. I think with the screws, the sealant, and the pipe sticking in the hose 4 inches or so it is not going anywhere. I have a little experience with the 3m 5200 and once it is on it is on. I think if the transom wasn't almost an inch thick I would be nervous about it and want it bolted all the way through.

[flienlow]

I think that better may be the enemy of good enough. It is so close as it is with that one Screw As pictured here. Right now my concern is will the screws be strong enough to suck that metal flange uptight to the hole since the inside exhaust pipe is giving a little bit of resistance by pushing out? that would be the only reason why I would want to use the through bolts.

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[Stazi]

You SHOULD use through bolts. not wood screws. The drag on the exhaust pipe is HUGE. I cracked mine just frm the drag and had to get FAE to reweld it. Wood screws would definitely get ripped out - and when that happens you will sink!!!!!!

[htfit]

I think performance wise, it is good. I would be willing to bet that if you were to look at some of them from the factory they would be off by so much.

I am going to have another go at it this afternoon. I think if I can get at least a quarter inch away from the current hole and it be straight I will drill a new hole.

The only other benefit of drilling a new hole is if you use the screws that came with the fae. If I recall correctly they are a little longer and if the thread is different it would be good to use a new hole. Less chance of it stripping out.



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[flienlow]

I think performance wise, it is good. I would be willing to bet that if you were to look at some of them from the factory they would be off by so much.

I am going to have another go at it this afternoon. I think if I can get at least a quarter inch away from the current hole and it be straight I will drill a new hole.

The only other benefit of drilling a new hole is if you use the screws that came with the fae. If I recall correctly they are a little longer and if the thread is different it would be good to use a new hole. Less chance of it stripping out.


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Let me know how it goes. I feel that Stazi is right and that if something ever happened, you would down with Davy Jones right quick like. And just think of all the beer you would lose? I am think I am going to through bold mine just for piece of mind.

[BigOrange]

Guys, use the through bolts. I haven’t had an issue with the FAE itself like Stazi, but there is pressure back there as I’ve had broken bolts. I think mainly that was from me over tightening during original install, but I just got through replacing mine with all new SS 1/4” - 20 bolts and new nylocks.

The baffle is a royal pain. If you can’t get it out, I’m not sure I’d worry about it. If you must and want to try it in-situ, you could have a really long drill bit to come from the transom, then a long piece of threaded rod with a toggle but on it. But still, that may not break it loose. It’s tac welded in 3 or 4 places. That’s a lot of extra time and money but worth a shot if you can’t separate the baffle pipe from the manifold.

[flienlow]

Guys, use the through bolts. I haven’t had an issue with the FAE itself like Stazi, but there is pressure back there as I’ve had broken bolts. I think mainly that was from me over tightening during original install, but I just got through replacing mine with all new SS 1/4” - 20 bolts and new nylocks.

The baffle is a royal pain. If you can’t get it out, I’m not sure I’d worry about it. If you must and want to try it in-situ, you could have a really long drill bit to come from the transom, then a long piece of threaded rod with a toggle but on it. But still, that may not break it loose. It’s tac welded in 3 or 4 places. That’s a lot of extra time and money but worth a shot if you can’t separate the baffle pipe from the manifold.

Is the issue getting the rear hose off or the baffle out? I was wondering I could just use a uni-big and drill some bigger holes in the baffle if I could get the rear hose off?

[BigOrange]

If you get the hose off then you should be able to slide the baffle pipe out. But, yeah the whole point is to open up the restriction so ideally just drilling multiple large holes should due the trick. Snake a shop vac up there when done!