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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    25

    Default New Boat Winterize

    Hello everyone
    I picked up my '06 LS in July and been loving it ever since.
    Just a few things for people to check when picking up your new boat that I overlooked or didn't know about. I hope these help.

    1. Screws were driven into the bottom of the rear seat to far so they would slightly stick through when you kneeled on the seat. (new seat coming from factory)
    2. center piece on steering wheel kept popping out.
    3. They ran the water strainer hoses over the transmission, so I couldn't even get the dipstick out. (Direct Drive)
    4. Holes were not cut out of the factory canvas for the bimini top
    5. On the passenger seat storage door, one end of the strap came off, because its just stapled.
    6. The glove box lid rubs back and fourth making a squeaking noise.
    7. The tie down loops were never installed to hold the bimini.
    You have to keep the brake lockout piece taped in when towing the trailer without the boat on it or the brakes lock up when it bounces.
    8. Battery cables laying in the bilge. (wet)
    9. Pieces of tubing and scraps in bilge from the factory.
    10. Screws holding the swim platform mounts were loose

    I have been searching under winterize and found a lot of great info on certain procedures. I really appreciate everyones input and help. I was wondering if anyone has a step by step list of things to do on the engine for winterizing. I live in upstate NY and it gets mighty cold, so I want to make sure I do everything right. I have the EFI 325hp engine w/raw water cooling direct drive. My dealer is an hour and half away or else I would take it to them. Plus I do all my own vehicle work, so I kinda know what I'm doing. I looked in the manual and its pretty detailed, but I was looking for more. I use to winterize my outboard, but this is my first inboard. Any info would be great. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    791

    Default

    Good list. We should keep a larger list of known things to look for.

    1. This one was an '05 problem - they said they changed the screw lengths in late 05/06... Hmmm.

    2. Contact cement.

    3. New

    4. New, but they do not make the canvas so i guess it is not their problem.

    5. New

    6. Foam Weather stripping - also keeps it from making scratches on the gel coat under the lid

    7. See #4

    7a - Knwon problem - BoatMate has worked this problem witha few owners who need to pull the empty trailer longer distances - still a problem - "was never designed to do this."

    8. New, but everything on the boat is able to get wet.

    9. True of all boats I know. They never get a person in there with a shop vac to get every tiny scrap out. Maybe in Mastercrafts... but not for $20k less. I shop vacced all the hidden spaces in mine twice and never have seen anything since.

    10. Your dealer should have told you to check all screws during the break in period. I believe it is in the owners manual as well now. Just how mechanical connectors work.

    I have no input on "winterization" - to us in Central FL - it means using Sta-bil for 3 weeks while on holiday vacation with the family. We Ski Feb-Nov and just go cruising the rivers in Dec-Jan.

    -Joe
    (useless post #302921)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    340

    Default

    This is probably not an all inclusive list but I'll give you everything I can think of for right now.

    Add Sta-bil to the gas. If you're using fuel with ethanol, it's recommended that you drain the fuel tank as much as possible. If you're not using ethanol top it off.

    Run the motor to get the fuel with Sta-bil in it through the whole fuel system. While the motor is hot, change the oil.

    Pull all of the ballast bags out, empty them completely and hang them in your garage or someplace. I also pull the ballast fill lines off of the manifold, drain them and leave them.

    There are two ways you can winterize the motor. Either drain all of the water out and leave it or fill it with antifreeze. Draining it is probably a little easier, but filling it with antifreeze provides corrosion protection. If I just drain mine, I disconnect the hose that runs between the exhaust manifolds (the one with the garden hose connectors) and drain them. I then pull the impellor, coat it with some petroleum jelly and store it in a plastic bag. Open the freeze plugs on the bottom of the block to drain it. I also go through and look at all of the hoses on the motor, transmission, and water pickup and pull them off at their lowest spot and drain them. I usually leave the hoses disconnected over the winter to help any water that's left to evaporate. It's a good idea, especially if you do this, to make a checklist and use it when you get the boat out to make sure you get everything connected again.

    I've never tried this but I've heard people mention it. If you use antifreeze, get a bucket and put the antifreeze in it. Find a way to run a hose from the water intake into the bucket. Then start the motor and let it pull the antifreeze into the motor until you see it spitting out the exhaust. I would think you'd want the engine to be hot during this so the thermostat is open. Either way, I'd probably open the freeze plugs to drain the block first. Afterwards I'd crack the freeze plugs open a little and see if it was antifreeze that runs out.

    After all of that, I'd find some fogging oil. Pull each spark plug out and fog the cylinders. Then turn the motor over once or twice.

    Finish everything up by pulling the battery and putting it on a maintenance charger over the winter.

    That's about all I can think of at the moment.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Thanks thats great stuff....I think I'm going with antifreeze.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    649

    Default

    If you look in the owner's manuals for both the boat and the engine, all of the winterizing procedures are listed, step by step. It is not hard to do at all, just a little bit time consuming if it is your first time.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    south east michigan
    Posts
    308

    Default

    If you go with antifreeze,(I do),make sure you drain the engine block(both sides),and the manifolds BEFORE you add the antifreeze.If the block is not empty the antifreeze will mostly just blow out the exhaust.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I haven't looked yet, but where are the drains for the manifolds. Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    south east michigan
    Posts
    308

    Default

    Each manifold has a hose attached to the back.These hoses are hooked togeather at the back of the motor with a garden hose fitting.Just take the connection appart and the manifold's will drain.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Ok...what kind of antifreeze do you guys recommend?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Millington TN
    Posts
    204

    Default Engine Winterization

    We winterize every engine that we build (about 10,000 per year) and we do not use anti freeze in any of them.

    If you do use anti freeze, make sure to use non-toxic anti freeze like they use in RV water systems. You should also drain it out in the spring before you put the boat in the water as in most states it is illegal to dump any anti freeze into a lake or river. If you do use anti freeze, you should drain the water hoses, block and manifolds of all water first, then add the anti freeze. I would add the anti freeze by removing the thermostat housing top and thermostat and dumping the anti freeze into the block directly into the engine till it was full.

    Engine Nut
    Larry Engelbert
    Indmar Marine Engines
    "Power to the Sport"

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